1995 Chevy Z71 Lift/ Suspension/ Drivetrain Overhaul - Help

Samkissing

New member
They are a little spendy but if you get a set of suspension max torsion keys you will have a lot more adjustability in your front suspension . Or if you want to put some $$ into it you can do a coilover swap . Haven’t done it myself but heard nothing but positive from people who have .
What's the purpose of using the Maxx torsion keys instead of the stock ones and cranking them an inch? (I think they naturally can go +2")
Does cranking the torsion keys just give better attack angle? What else does it do if the back lift stays the same?
 

Samkissing

New member
Sure thing and happy to help @Samkissing! What you intend to use your truck for with a lightweight pop-up camper sounds totally reasonable to me. That will make for an awesome adventure rig!

First thing and an important one, make sure to keep an eye on your GVWR and payload, especially with a camper, as it’s pretty easy to overload things on a half-ton gmt400 like these. I recommend taking a look at what your GVWR is (there should be a sticker inside of the passenger door) and then, with a full tank of gas and with you and your wife on board, weigh the truck (your local dump or truck stop with scales can help) and take that number and subtract it from what your listed GVWR is. That will be your useful payload. Of course, you will want to subtract the weight of your fiberglass topper as well, since it won’t be on with the camper installed.

For example, my 1992 K1500 RCSB has a listed GVWR of 6100lbs. With my light camping/adventure setup loaded (full tank of gas, food, spares, recovery and camping gear, cooler and myself with a softopper) the truck weighs 5240lbs, so I have about 850lbs of payload left.

Hopefully you don’t mind me going down this rabbit hole, it’s just an important one to consider!

Another important thing is what options your truck came with. Inside the glovebox, there should be a sticker that looks like this:

View attachment 677364

It’s called the “RPO” code (Regular Production Order) sticker and decoded will tell you all the options and features your truck came with, from gear ratios, to whether it has a G80 locking diff out back etc. It’s a good place to start to see what you need and what you don’t.

As far as the KYB monomax shocks go, I have about 3000 miles on them and am really impressed with them The ride is controlled, but not too firm nor soft and has worked great on the trail. In my experience, I’d say they were comparable to Bilstein 5100s/5125s, just half the cost.

The 1” body lift isn’t totally necessary for me, but more of an R&D experiment for a little more ground clearance for the body, especially since I’ll loose some when I add rock sliders. No one currently makes just a 1” body lift (Performance Accessories/Zone makes a 2” and lots of companies make 3” kits, which I’m not a big fan of). Body lifts are often scorned, but done correctly they do provide more clearance.

Totally! That is cool that he was able to put 35’s on his Tahoe. They do fit on these trucks surprisingly well. The key is a stock-offset wheel and going with a narrower tire. 285/75R17s (33.8”) are also an option, which is a good interim size between the 285/75R16 (32.8”) and a true 35” tire (which is around 34.7”).

315/75R16’s (34.6”) will fit on these trucks but at full steering lock, often rub the frame rails. Here’s a gentleman’s truck from the GMT400 forum with 315/75R16s. The truck is bone stock other then a few cranks up on the torsion bars. Ground clearance for days, but definetly a tight fit in the wheel wells.

View attachment 677365

View attachment 677366

Kenda does make a narrow 35” tire that would alleviate some of this problem but requires a 17” wheel. It’s the Kenda Klever RT in 35x10.50R17.
This brand makes a 1" body lift, I know you said you were looking for one. Maxx Suspension Link
 

Samkissing

New member
I know it’s the next body style up but I believe the lifts are the same in design

The new style ruff country lift keeps the torsion bars in the stock location and the crossmemer tucked up quite nicely . And a set of 35x10.50 will fit on stock wheels with only 1” of lift . But looks better with 6” of lift . View attachment 677985View attachment 677986View attachment 677987
Do you like your RC lift? I've heard different things about their quality, and I'm curious your thoughts on this new version!
 

Smileyshaun

Observer
Do you like your RC lift? I've heard different things about their quality, and I'm curious your thoughts on this new version!

unfortunately I didn’t keep the truck but I have ran their kits on other vehicles in the past and have never had a issue , it’s just a bunch of metal brackets . Now their leaf springs I have been unimpressed with , overly stiff .
 

Smileyshaun

Observer
What's the purpose of using the Maxx torsion keys instead of the stock ones and cranking them an inch? (I think they naturally can go +2")
Does cranking the torsion keys just give better attack angle? What else does it do if the back lift stays the same?

like any of the lift keys you are adding hight without adding more preload to the bars so you will end up with a more stock like ride compared to cranking the bars that will stiffen the ride ( sometimes necessary as the bars age or weight is added to the front end .
 

Smileyshaun

Observer
With torsion bars suspension you’re probably actually better off tossing a body lift on it and maybe lifting the suspension a inch unless you want to go full drop bracket lift . With all ifs suspension unless you get into new control arms and whatnot you only have a certain amount of up and down travel and a lot of times when lifting in a way you are shortening your down travel to gain that lift Plus it becomes harder to alighn and keep an alignment.
 

TwinDuro

Well-known member
For a new trans cooler, I'm thinking of replacing the existing with this, Amazon Link.

I like your recommendations.
B/c of recent unexpected tire damage from Arizona lava rock I'm about to pull the trigger on a set of 285/75R16 Milestar Patagonia X/T's. There are a ton of positive reviews of the M/T version, and the X/T comes with a 40k mile warrant. Simple Tire Link

@Samkissing, I’ve heard a lot of good things about Milestar Patagonia Tires in all their iterations as well. IMHO, as @vargsmetal mentioned, you can’t go wrong with this tire size on these trucks, and a good tire like that, with a 3-ply sidewall and E-rating (for the additional weight of the camper as well a large durability when aired down to lower pressures) should do just the trick.

As far as the trans cooler goes, a big one like that looks good. Just make sure it’s a good quality unit, is mounted securely and that the lines/hoses are good quality, routed well and have additional chafe protection where necessary (for example, split wire loom over them in tight places). I also recommend ditching (or adding extra) the little hose clamps for some solid band clamps (like fuel injection-style clamps) for extra security. If a trans cooler line pops loose, its not a good day.

@Smileyshaun and @vargsmetal have solid points IMHO about either bypassing or going inline (so you have both) of the factory cooler built into the radiator. It’s definitely personal preference and climate dependent. I’ve done both over the years on different rigs…


If you run in cool climates you'll still want to run the internal transmission cooler in line with the aftermarket. With the 40k cooler on my 4L80e, even running through the radiator it still runs cold going down the highway.

Like Twinduro mentioned, the lifts with the torsion bar crossmember drop are a no go if you're going to be doing heavy wheeling. I've bent the stock crossmember, I can't imagine how much of an anchor that would be if it was 4in below the frame. The biggest benefit to these trucks is they have a relatively flat bottom so even though the lift options are minimal, you can still manage some crazy obstacles with careful driving and spotting.

Sliders, skid plates, 285/75R16 on stock wheels, 4+1 spring pack (from a light duty, 6lug 2500) would be my build suggestion. Then go on trips and see if you really need anything else. The 350TBI is perfectly fine if you're not in a hurry (and you shouldn't be). I towed a 5k lb camper with mine before I did the 5.3 swap. The 5.3 is faster unloaded, but it doesn't have much more torque than the 350 did so there was no benefit there from a towing standpoint. It also uses more fuel.

Great advice IMHO… I had all sorts of wild plans for my truck before I just started going out and just using it and it changed my perspective. Going out and “letting it tell you what it needs” can tell you lots. Like Varg said as well, these trucks are very flat on the bottom and have awesome ground clearance and pretty dang good approach/departure angle with just a taller tire like that 285/75R16.
 

Samkissing

New member
!

How'd the rig check out at the mechanic's @Samkissing ?:D
H
How'd the rig check out at the mechanic's @Samkissing ?:D
It went really well! Thank you for asking :)

I had him service both differentials, transfer case and transmission, as well as look over the whole vehicle.

He kept saying that I had a great truck, and had made a good purchase, which is great by me! Haha

The only thing needing fixed is the front two lower ball joints, not too bad!
 

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