1999 2wd E-350 - best rear axle add-on for off road traction

[Buliwyf]

My point exactly. The big e is only going to do even worse with the rear locked in sloppy conditions. A terrible vehicle off road. I'll quit my job before going back to one.

 

[eporter]

So I’m guessing your e350 that was spinning both rear tires was single rear wheel? The Chinooks are dually, so that’s a lot more traction. How does a dually e350 do in snow/mud with the LS rear axle?

 

[Mwilliamshs]

My point exactly...

I'm sorry, what was your point exactly? You lost me.

...The big e is only going to do even worse with the rear locked in sloppy conditions.

Worse than what? Worse how?

So I’m guessing your e350 that was spinning both rear tires was single rear wheel? The Chinooks are dually, so that’s a lot more traction. How does a dually e350 do in snow/mud with the LS rear axle?

^Exactly. DRW cuts ground pressure drastically. It'll spin but it don't dig. I've driven DRWs off-road A LOT. They're almost always LSD-equipped in trucks because they're almost useless without it on even at grass. A locked DRW works well off-road because there's lots of flotation (won't sink) and lots of contact patch (spins less) and with good AT tires (real AT like BFG KO, AT3, Wildpeak, etc) they're quite capable.

 

[68camaro]

So I’m guessing your e350 that was spinning both rear tires was single rear wheel? The Chinooks are dually, so that’s a lot more traction. How does a dually e350 do in snow/mud with the LS rear axle?

Here is link to a guy in VA who uses his Chinook in heavy snow alot in Western VA, WV and VT etc. His is 2WD, DRW and about 9,500lbs. In VA we don't get a alot of snow accumulation, usually, but we do get a lot of slippery snow that can hang around a long time.

^Exactly. DRW cuts ground pressure drastically. It'll spin but it don't dig. I've driven DRWs off-road A LOT. They're almost always LSD-equipped in trucks because they're almost useless without it on even at grass. A locked DRW works well off-road because there's lots of flotation (won't sink) and lots of contact patch (spins less) and with good AT tires (real AT like BFG KO, AT3, Wildpeak, etc) they're quite capable.

I have been debating full 4x4 vs lift with locker for some time, for forest roads and muddy dirt backroads do you think lift and locker is adequate? I know 4x4 is best but its $12k+ more than 6" lift/locker combo. I'm not looking to rock crawl go mudding or get into off canter stuff, just want to get into backcountry and off beaten path.

 

[Bikersmurf]

It was a long time ago... but I worked for the Forest Service overseeing the road repair and maintenance for 5 months. On an average day I’d cover 120 miles in a pickup truck with an empty box. For similar roads I really don’t see the need for 4WD. The truck I drove had it, but I didn’t come close to needing it.

Anyhow... the dually Ambo with a limited slip will keep up with 4WD in the snow... but I know to respect its limitations, no mud bogging or Single track... that’s what the 40 is for.

 

[Deshet]

Here is link to a guy in VA who uses his Chinook in heavy snow alot in Western VA, WV and VT etc. His is 2WD, DRW and about 9,500lbs. In VA we don't get a alot of snow accumulation, usually, but we do get a lot of slippery snow that can hang around a long time.

I have been debating full 4x4 vs lift with locker for some time, for forest roads and muddy dirt backroads do you think lift and locker is adequate? I know 4x4 is best but its $12k+ more than 6" lift/locker combo. I'm not looking to rock crawl go mudding or get into off canter stuff, just want to get into backcountry and off beaten path.

Have you priced out locker options?

If your Chinook is clean and the mileage is decent. You may be able to make more in future resale then the 4x4 conversion costs and enjoy it for several years.

NOVA just had a bunch of snow, how did your truck make out?

If you go with a lift and lockers you could still go with a 4x4 conversion later if you really wanted it.
I would like to do a 4x4 conversion but I haven't figured out what parts of the conversion require highly skilled technicians versus what parts can be done by average backyard parts changers. The main components aren't that expensive.

Recently, I saw hybrid bolt-on electric motors meant to make fwd cars awd. The kits were around prototype kits were $6000 may be in a few years we will have a similar option at a better price point. I believe that these bolt-on wheel hub based electric motors made 68 horsepower.

 

[68camaro]

Have you priced out locker options?

If your Chinook is clean and the mileage is decent. You may be able to make more in future resale then the 4x4 conversion costs and enjoy it for several years.

NOVA just had a bunch of snow, how did your truck make out?

If you go with a lift and lockers you could still go with a 4x4 conversion later if you really wanted it.
I would like to do a 4x4 conversion but I haven't figured out what parts of the conversion require highly skilled technicians versus what parts can be done by average backyard parts changers. The main components aren't that expensive.

Recently, I saw hybrid bolt-on electric motors meant to make fwd cars awd. The kits were around prototype kits were $6000 may be in a few years we will have a similar option at a better price point. I believe that these bolt-on wheel hub based electric motors made 68 horsepower.

I looked at lockers last year but can't remember price, I opted to not go that way and just went with 4.5" lift, radius arms, shocks, sterring stabilzer and bigger Duratracs.

I agree on resale with 4x4, I think I can get money back on current mods, the 4x4 conversion would be sold at loss. However, Over the next 1-2 years I will decide if I really need 4x4 or not, if I don't need it I'll pass.

My local truck outfitter was trying to talk me into conversion via donor 4x4 f350. They thought they could do it for no more than 12k - 15k with donar vehicle, and part out rest of vehicle to recoup costs. Great price, but since they really hadn't done one I was afraid if they "missed" I would spend thousands and alot of frusrtation getting it "dialed-in", this is a real risk. However, they did lift and other work and RV drives sooooo much better.

I didn't have chance to get in snow but I know it would have been fine.

 

[TomsBeast]

You've got some pretty modest requirements, doesn't sound like you'll be doing much more than forest service and fire trails. A good driver can do those in a 2wd pick up, some sedans. Before you spend the money on changes, drive it in the snow and ice, splippery roads. I've owned a couple 2wd dually trucks with cabover campers, tires make a huge difference. The weight on the rear and the duals are your friend. Rear dual tires and wide camper body kept me away from any deep rutted single track roads, mostly.

I can recommend BFG all terrain tires as good all around snow/ice/some mud 2wd performance. You might be surprised at how well it works 'as is'. You can always carry traction boards.

 

[Deshet]

I looked at lockers last year but can't remember price, I opted to not go that way and just went with 4.5" lift, radius arms, shocks, sterring stabilzer and bigger Duratracs.

I agree on resale with 4x4, I think I can get money back on current mods, the 4x4 conversion would be sold at loss. However, Over the next 1-2 years I will decide if I really need 4x4 or not, if I don't need it I'll pass.

My local truck outfitter was trying to talk me into conversion via donor 4x4 f350. They thought they could do it for no more than 12k - 15k with donar vehicle, and part out rest of vehicle to recoup costs. Great price, but since they really hadn't done one I was afraid if they "missed" I would spend thousands and alot of frusrtation getting it "dialed-in", this is a real risk. However, they did lift and other work and RV drives sooooo much better.

I didn't have chance to get in snow but I know it would have been fine.

At $12-$15,000 plus the cost of the donor truck, I would be calling Chris from Ujoint. If the cost exceeds $10,000 you may as well get it done once and by the people that know your truck. Nothing is worse than a lifted truck that you can't trust to go straight down the road. I tow heavy and don't want to reduce the truck's capabilities.

I have been researching Ujoint's DIY kit and it seems doable. They posted a Youtube video not long ago that makes the process seem extremely easy. I wish that I could pay someone in the know to help out on the tricky parts.

Thanks

 

[windtraveler]

I have driven numerous trucks, both 4wd and 2wd with and with out positrac. I grew up driving positrac rear ends in the 70’s so I’m kind of partial to them. I have actually
Done better with the positrac than 4wd. Maybe because I wasn’t confident when driving in sketchy conditions with a 2wd. I also had a 1999 dodge 2500 diesel, 4x4, manual transmission that would get stuck on wet grass without a locker so I added positrac and only engaged the 4wd to lubricate the hubs from that point forward. I would choose positrac over selectable locker all day long. Less to go wrong. Also, I live in the PNW and my next truck will be a 2wd that I will add a winch and positrac to if it doesn’t already have it.