1st Gen 4runners???

[ntsqd]

Be mindful of the ARP studs. They are not necked like the factory head bolts.......

Thanks for the heads-up on that. In this case it's the one-time used stock bolts that have given up. One is about to fail from intentional over torquing (still short of what the bolts should take).
Since ARP is in my hometown, shipping is driving over to get them. If it looks like they'll be a flow issue I'll set them up in the Spindex on the Surface Grinder and relieve them a bit.

 

[kodiak1232003]

Paging scenic wonderrunner....


he wants to know if 1st gen's are any good.....lol..


check out scenic's threads...i think he restored his 1st gen. Nicest example of one of the early toy's that i've ever seen.

and he uses it a lot for what it was made for.

regards,
Brian

 

[DaveInDenver]

Thanks for the heads-up on that. In this case it's the one-time used stock bolts that have given up. One is about to fail from intentional over torquing (still short of what the bolts should take).
Since ARP is in my hometown, shipping is driving over to get them. If it looks like they'll be a flow issue I'll set them up in the Spindex on the Surface Grinder and relieve them a bit.

Some people don't feel it's an issue, some people blame their scored cams on them. I dunno and didn't feel much like ruining my new cam to find out. Plenty of people run them successfully as they are (Roger Brown for one I know), so it's probably not really an issue. OTOH, when I bought my head Ted couldn't say whether or not the Topline Street/RV head would have the problem. So I stuck with the Toyota bolts. That they cost about 1/5 the cost of a set of ARP didn't hurt, either...

FYI, stock bolt (notice the way they neck down):
View attachment 11245

 

[Scenic WonderRunner]

Try Clicking ALL around this site in the link below............

And also click all around all the other site's it takes you too!

Should give you tons of idea's!


http://staff.4x4wire.com/swilson/

I'm always looking for a 1985 4Runner.

Solid front axle......22RE......

I'd like to give it a 4" lift and 35 " tires..........the right gears....and front and rear lockers.

.........Done! ......um....well.....almost:costumed-smiley-007

 

[ntsqd]

I started on the ORC yota list in about 97 or 98 (well b4 Geiger took over as mod). From long term observation I have concluded that front axle Birfield life is determined by tire size, tire width, axle ratio, front locker, and transfer ratio. No surprises there!
Along the way I formulated some RoT's. These have been fine tuned from repeated observation of damage posts.

If you go over 33", eventually you're going to have trouble.
If you go over 10.50", eventually you're going to have trouble.
If you go lower than what puts you back to stock shift points, or to 5.29's, eventually you're going to have trouble.
If you have a front locker, eventually you're going to have trouble.
If you have any sort of aftermarket transfer case gearset, eventually you're going to have trouble.

Adding any two or more of these factors together just about guarantees a broken Birfield. Carry a spare or two and the tools needed for replacement.

Keep in mind that these RoT's apply to hard core off roading and were formed b4 the common availability of aftermarket, higher strength Birfields.

 

[DaveInDenver]

Keep in mind that these RoT's apply to hard core off roading and were formed b4 the common availability of aftermarket, higher strength Birfields.

What are you supposed to do if you have some of those criteria (5.29 and front locker), but no Birfields? ;-)

 

[ntsqd]

Kiss that 7.5" ring gear adios!

 

[DaveInDenver]

Kiss that 7.5" ring gear adios!

OK. Let you know when the mighty 22R-E self destructs my truck!

 

[toyota_jon]

I have one of the '85's SFA and EFI. I really like this truck. i can't think of any other vehicle out there that is as multi-use and functional as this truck. I use it as my rock crawler, expedition vehicle, camper (just lay the seats down and throw your bed roll out), truck (pop the top and roll bar off to carry big loads), and my Daily Driver. Gas mileage is pretty decent i get around 20. right now mine sits on a 2" sus. lift, 2" body lift, and soon will have a 2" drive train lift. and thats all the lifting i intend to do. i have 33's on it with stock gears. so it's definitely lacking power but 4.88's should take care of that when funding permits. the engines are great very reliable, and tough as nails, i took my runner up to alaska from colorado, stayed the winter and and then drove back. only thing was a minor exhaust leak which was fixed in about 30min.

 

[4Rescue]

toyotaJon that is a great rig.

 

[Grim Reaper]

I started on the ORC yota list in about 97 or 98 (well b4 Geiger took over as mod). From long term observation I have concluded that front axle Birfield life is determined by tire size, tire width, axle ratio, front locker, and transfer ratio. No surprises there!
Along the way I formulated some RoT's. These have been fine tuned from repeated observation of damage posts.

If you go over 33", eventually you're going to have trouble.
If you go over 10.50", eventually you're going to have trouble.
If you go lower than what puts you back to stock shift points, or to 5.29's, eventually you're going to have trouble.
If you have a front locker, eventually you're going to have trouble.
If you have any sort of aftermarket transfer case gearset, eventually you're going to have trouble.

Adding any two or more of these factors together just about guarantees a broken Birfield. Carry a spare or two and the tools needed for replacement.

Keep in mind that these RoT's apply to hard core off roading and were formed b4 the common availability of aftermarket, higher strength Birfields.

Absolutely true on the stock parts but Long has his birfs beefed up stronger then D60 shafts now. The problem is if the Hub doesn't grenade then the next thing to go is the R&P.

 

[4cruzer]

first post!

love this site....
and love first generation 4runner.
have heard just the same about the birfields, which is why i've skipped the front locker. mine has 4:88's, chevy rear springs, high steer, 33's, etc, etc.....no troubles yet...but have acquired a good bit of body damage after this pic was taken...anyone else on here with a first gen? camping pics? any pics? cheers....

 

[toyota_jon]

toyotaJon that is a great rig.

thanks! took me FOREVER to find the right one. This one came to me from new mexico no rust baby :wings:

4cruzer--- how much lift do you have on your truck? i'm asking because i'd like to switch over to hy-steer, but i've heard if you don't run at least 3" sus. lift, the arms will bind. so i'm trying to figure out if thats true.

 

[ntsqd]

Reportedly with the IFS oil pan you can clear cross-over steering with a lower lift than otherwise. I've not done it, but will be trying it eventually. Just need to get the IFS box rebuilt, mounted, and then buy the tie rod assembly.
Xcab, not a 'rnnr:

 

[4cruzer]

mine has around 4" of lift. Never measured actually. 33's fit perfectly; no rub, lots of flex... The front springs are a mixed pack made mainly from the stock rear springs. This moves the axle forward about 1 1/2" from it's stock location. If the IFS box is installed far enough forward, binding shouldn't be an issue, though the oilpan would be. Mine has the stock pan, and is nowhere near the drag link/ tie rod...