2 LR3 maintenance questions

[StreetsofCompton]

Hey guys! happy new year to my LR brethren.

two questions for the collective.

1. Finally got around to changing my diff fluids yesterday. It was... gross. like thick chocolate milk and flaky. I paid a local shop to do this, about 2yrs and 25k miles ago. Is it possible that the fluid got that bad after such time and usage? I’ve taken it out a few times, but definitely no abuse nor major fording. I’m thinking the work was never done when I paid them, but before I take my beef to any negative reviews, figured I’d ask here for some opinions.

2. Recently, the past 2 months or so, I’ve noticed a slight “growling” sound when I begin braking or slowing down. I changed my front pads back in Feb. Any ideas on where to start trying to nail it down?

thanks fellas!


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[krick3tt]

How many miles on your LR? My 07 just turned over 134K. Maybe the pads are not compatible with your rotors. Did the same shop do the work?
I change everything if the job has any value at all. Pads, rotors, and sensors. I got my last set from Atlantic British, compatible parts are best, in my opinion.
This is not a cheap vehicle and the brakes are very important to me, lives can depend on them, not going to chance it.
Maybe a dealer can inspect the work, might be worth it.

 

[StreetsofCompton]

142k

this was my first time changing diff fluids, and it was my first time doing the pads as well. used new OEM pads.
could the sound be rotor related?



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[Ray_G]

Sound may be bearing related; good news is that is easy to sort (up front)


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[StreetsofCompton]

Interesting. I paid that same shop to do a lot of base-line maintenance on the truck back in Oct 2015, about a month after I bought it. including complete fluid drain and refills plus changing the front right wheel hub assembly. A different Indy shop replaced the front left about a yr ago. I'm going to hope the sound is something else, otherwise, "Operation Ruin Their Reputation" will be in full force.


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[Jwestpro]

Lol dude. You can't be sure they did anything wrong at all after that much time. Totally uncool to try hurting their business without proof.

For the sound, try some different tests where you use the sport shift to Slow vs brakes. Also if it's the brakes, I'd think they should make the sound going backwards too. Worth a try in a big parking lot or down a hill.

The diff fluid though, unless you know what many look like upon draining, as a well experienced rover tech might, I don't think you can surmise that anything is seriously out of order here. I say this because while I don't think my rear diff should've needed replacement at only 90k, it did, while many other lr3's haven't...maybe on yours a seal was bad, or a breather tube, too many possible reasons IMO.

Without trying to be insulting, did you pick a tech who isn't a ever specialist? In my 18 yrs of rover ownership over about 450,000 miles, I've found it best to only use rover trained and highly experienced mechanics. Ideally with at least 10 yrs experience.

 

[StreetsofCompton]

Jwest,

Thanks for chiming in with some ideas on how to test for the sound/brakes(potentially). I don't want to get too far off track here, but I would NEVER attempt to harm someones business rep without ADEQUATE proof. Which was the main reason I wanted to come here and ask you guys. I know there are some Rover techs amongst us, and was hoping to get feedback on the diff situation.
Is it even possible the fluid could look that bad after just 25k miles? or is it more of a time thing? Cause you're right, if its more of a time issue than yeah I have no proof whether they actually changed the fluids or not.

Not an insulting question to ask, as for the two indy shops Ive used, one is the most well-known in Atlanta. I liked them the first time or two I went in, but then had a sub-par interaction with them that led me to take my business elsewhere.
The second shop, is run by two Rover guys with either 20 or 25yrs each. They've been great and I've had zero issues with anything there.

 

[ColoDisco]

Diff fluid can turn muddy if the breather system or a input/output flange seal is leaking. The shop should have investigated for you if the fluid looked bad.

As for the noise, I personally had FEQ front hubs on my rig which both went bad with about 20k on them, I knew they would and I just needed to replace them cheaply. Replaced them with skf which are known to be good and all is better. I warranties the hubs and have them sitting on a shelf. Other potential groaning noises are diff bearings, cupped/scalloped tires. Good luck!

 

[StreetsofCompton]

I really appreciate the insights ColoDisco.


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[LKLK]

Diff fluid can turn muddy if the breather system or a input/output flange seal is leaking. The shop should have investigated for you if the fluid looked bad.

As for the noise, I personally had FEQ front hubs on my rig which both went bad with about 20k on them, I knew they would and I just needed to replace them cheaply. Replaced them with skf which are known to be good and all is better. I warranties the hubs and have them sitting on a shelf. Other potential groaning noises are diff bearings, cupped/scalloped tires. Good luck!

This right here! On a side note, the hubs are not that bad to change out... definitely an afternoon project! I also take that HDC wasn't active when you were driving as well right?

 

[StreetsofCompton]

that is correct LK, this is referring to normal street driving. glad to know the hub's aren't that bad; if it ends up being that.


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[bentonrover]

I changed my own diff fluids out 3 times to get the fluid looking good. Just do another couple of drain and fills and you should be good.

 

[StreetsofCompton]

Sounds good benton, Ill keep that in mind. Thanks!

 

[Victory_Overland]

Concur on the diff fluid.....if its is really bad in there, one flush is not going to get everything out. On a second note, did you submerge the diffs anytime after the change? It only takes getting wet once through leaking or submerge breather to cloud the diff oil and NEED a change.

As far as front wheel bearings, not on an LR3, but I've seen a bearing fail in less than 10k miles on another vehicle and it was a Timken. Timken warrantied the bearing but it happened regardless. Anomoly I am sure but I am a big believer in change all suspension components at once if possible since many things transfer load and excess wear to other components.

One thing I do is use white-out or paint pen and create a witness mark torque seal on filters, plugs, etc... I also write the mileage on the filters with a colored paint pen and date. If you are having a dealer do things, its a quick jump under the truck when you pick it up to verify plugs and caps have been pulled and new filters are installed.

Hope this helps.......sorry for the bad luck!

 

[bentonrover]

Very smart idea Victory....