2000 Cherokee: Project Northwest Explorer
- Thread starter eurytopic
- Start date
beardus supremous
Adventurer
Build looks great!
Just wondering on the OME leafs. I know they are all the craze and nothing can really outdo them, but for inexpensive, why not AAL and an extra leaf? I have a rough country 3" AAL and just went to the local parts store and snagged an extra leaf for each side and have been more than happy with it (over 2 years). NO sag at all and hauled a 5x8 STUFFED trailer from Maine to Florida with no problem. Just curious?
Just wondering on the OME leafs. I know they are all the craze and nothing can really outdo them, but for inexpensive, why not AAL and an extra leaf? I have a rough country 3" AAL and just went to the local parts store and snagged an extra leaf for each side and have been more than happy with it (over 2 years). NO sag at all and hauled a 5x8 STUFFED trailer from Maine to Florida with no problem. Just curious?
88Xj
Banned
Well I think the main thing consituting new leafs vs a AAL/bastard pack is if your main leaf is shot or not. If its already bending negative then that AAL/bastard pack won't last very long at all. So if your gonna spend on new leafs may as well get OME's..if not then you'll be fine.
I run both actually lol. 1" OME's HDs, 2.5" RE AAL, MJ overload leaf. Around 3" with a stock shackle and it rides great also no sag!
beardus supremous
Adventurer
I will totally agree with this. Just wondering if his leafs were already shot or if he was going for new ones in general?
88Xj
Banned
I didn't read everything so I wasn't sure yet either..
Also word of advice to newer people or just those who don't know much. If you stick to 3" or under don't do shackles!! Shackles change pinion angle if you keep it at 3" or under just do full leafs..that way you won't need to worry about fixing the pinion angle. If you feel you must do a shackle to level the jeep out..you could add in a leaf or do a MJ stock shackle..it won't change the pinon angle as much as aftermarket ones will & it provides .75" of lift.
I work by KISS- keep it stupid simple. Also with a stock shackle I flex it out more than enough..not limited in anyway! With the stock shackle I have a pretty good angle still..could be better but its not straight up and down like most 3" lifts that use a shackle...just food for thought.
I took a good look at my stock springs tonight. They are actually in good shape for 250K miles. Not bent, and still a little arch to them. Keeping in mind the "budget" intention of this build I think I'm going to order some 3" Rough Country AAL's and call it a day. The reason I was thinking lift shackles was not for lift, but for ride quality. I was going to do a shackle relocation but I think I'm just going to try the AAL's and see where I am after that.
On another note my brother in law sold me a set of 31" Mastercraft Courser C/T's for $200 with great tread plus a full size non-matching spare. Score.
Placed an order with Rockauto for some new leaf spring bushings, YJ brakes lines, and hatch lift struts.
On another note my brother in law sold me a set of 31" Mastercraft Courser C/T's for $200 with great tread plus a full size non-matching spare. Score.
Placed an order with Rockauto for some new leaf spring bushings, YJ brakes lines, and hatch lift struts.
88Xj
Banned
Do you by chance know if your aal is full length or half length? Full length meaning it'll become your 2nd leaf directly under the main..half length I believe becomes your 3rd or 4th leaf. They sag out much much to quick. hoping its full length!
And no worries on ride quailty brother, shock choice played a bigger role for me than leafs!
I haven't bought them yet buy I'm going to buy the full length.
I'm thinking Black Diamond AT for the shocks. I've had them before and I liked them. I've ran OME, Bilstein 5100, Rubicon Monotubes, and Black Diamond AT's in the past.
Rancho also has a pretty nice deal on their new 7100 series shocks.... Hmm..
What are you running?
MCObray
Explorer
Bilstein. Buy once, cry once.
88Xj
Banned
Great since you haven't bought em yet turn away now! Go grab some S10/Dakota leafs. Or rodeo leafs! IDK what the AAL runs new, but 2 full leafs packs out here are 20 bucks each of 1/4-1/2 ton trucks. Then guess what? You've got enough leafs to give to 6" of lift by mixing and matching!
The s10/Dak main leaf with the eyes cut off will give roughly 3"..give or take pending current leaf life & Weight ect ect.. S10/Dak are thicker with less arch. Rodeos are thinner with more arch! Heres a link for ya, scroll on through, theres pic & a basic write!
http://www.xjtalk.com/showthread.php?t=4716
And another one that shows details about building leafs.
http://www.cherokeetalk.com/forum/f8/2000-junkyard-build-8987/
Thicker leafs with less arch will most likely ride rougher but carry more weight without sagging out. The rodeos thinner leafs with more arch will flex & ride better, but not have as high of a payload! The guy in the first link combated that with a thicker overload which he inverted (flip upside down)..I hated inverted overloads cause they tend to dig into the ground while offroad. So I just kept it normal while using a large overload. Mine was from a MJ pickup.
Personally I'd do the Rodeo leafs with some new leaf retainers. A trick with leafs is to allow them to seperate for better flex & ride! I used stock style leaf retainers & slide them towards the middle of the leaf pack..that way when I flex the leafs can seperate, thus allowing more flex. You can also do the aftermarket style clips..
Check the pics here for what I mean, the sliver clips are placed at the very center allowing the most flex. Never had an issue and my leafs are roughly 19 months old since the rebuild!
http://www.binderplanet.com/forums/showwiki.php?title=Leaf+Spring+Upgrade+Rebuild+-+Part+4
At this time you can also replace your bushings..Quadratec has all your leaf bushings for just a few bucks each! I would do it now that way everything is new back there! Rubber bushings in the leafs & shackles! I used a drill with a big bit on it..drilled about 100 holes till I could push the rubber out..then bent the metal sleeve & it slide right out...press new leafs in with lube, a board & a BFH
I sanded my leafs down with a wire wheel & grinder to knock of any ridges, I took extra time on each side of the leafs making sure they were rounded so nothing would catch & drag! Then coated libberally with this stuff. I did mine over a 2 day period..1 tack coat, then 2 thicker coats over that! And its help up to all my abuse..3200[si pressure washing, offroad trips..& its held up amazing!
http://www.agspecialty.com/EZslide.htm
Replaced my bushings again (they were semi new 1"OME's) replaced the slider pads at the tips of the leafs (also from quadratec) & put em back together. I have no worries with my leafs, the ride & flex great..I did OME 1", 2.5" RE full length AAL and a MJ overload. With stock leafs I'd do rodeo spings & a bigger overload.
Shock wise..up front I ran JK rubicon shocks & loved them. Have them for sale actually
They rode amazing with a V8 ZJ coil & 2" spacer for 3" of lift. I changed my rear shocks to a Rancho rs9000 adjustable which is stiff!You haven't bought shocks yet..so do this mod here! It uses your rear sway bar bracket as a BPE. The sway bar bracket bolts to the body & then the shock bolts to the bracket! That way you will never ever again have to worry about the broken shock bolts! Makes things alot easier & litterally takes no extra time!
http://www.lunghd.com/Tech_Articles/Suspension_Steering_Axles_and_Brakes/Rear_BPEs.htm
Personally I loved my JK rubi shocks..if on a budget they were perfect & worked flawlessly. I upgraded to some BDS shocks I got for cheap..but my reason for upgrading was longer shocks! I removed my stock lower shock mount..& mounted my shocks by the control arm. Similar to this
I use 6.5" shocks on my 3" lift..It just allowed me to have more droop/down travel while keeping the same exact uptravel..I lost nothing just gained a little down travel..mainly just a personal touch/effect that wasn't needed & only helped me while really offroading. No I would not do it again as I mainly explore & don't really flex my jeep out that much that often..if I offroaded more I'd say its worthwhile but for me it just wasn't.
If you want those JK rubicon shocks shoot me a pm, I'll sell em way cheaper than new shocks & they are still practically new, bar codes and all. Ran for around 6months, they were brand new when I got them straight off a dealership JK.
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Thanks for the reply. I was originally going to do a S10 / Dakota bastard pack but around here leaf springs are around $40 each. It is simply cheaper for me to go with the AAL. I was thinking JK Rubicon shocks too, but the ones around here usually go for $100 a set. I may do the BPE on the front if / when I strengthen the lower control arm mounts.
88Xj
Banned
How much is the AAL? Assuming it sags..it will. Probably end up around 2.5" all said & done. And over time..probably withing a year it'll sag out all the way..which is why bastard packs tend to be better! Because you can use leafs that will carry the extra load without sagging. Vs relying on 1 leaf to do all that you can use 2-5 leafs. I would say think about it..the 1 AAL will not hold the weight long & will sag & you will be back at square one..vs spending a little extra time/money now and be better off.
Thats just how it always is when dealing with used leafs & a aal.
Any way if you want I've got rear Doetechs for 3-4" of lift. And Jk reds or blacks (new) for the front. The reds (more desireable) have about 6months and maybe 4-5 mild offroad trips..just mainly camping/exploring nothing serious!
I'd do 75 for the 3 sets for ya
2 front sets 1 new, 1 rear set Shoot me a pm if you want me man. They are just sitting here anyway lol.