2000 Cherokee - worth 10-11k?

[TantoTrailers]

Im looking for an older base vehicle to build an overlander on but I don't want to have to fix too much and I would like to be able to drive it off road right out of the gate, nothing crazy but something more than pavement.

I found a 2000 Cherokee in seeminly really really good condition in pretty much all ways. I see 0 rust in any of the pictures and it just looks clean and well kept. A few dings and scratches but that all part of the story so no big deal there. It looks like the shop who has it, a midwest customs shop dealing in jeeps and dirt-fun things, has done some work to it in terms of cleaning it up, painting the underside, replacing some parts (I'll find out later today what all has been done to it when I test drive it) so it looks like its in top notch shape from inside and out.

It has 147k miles on it, they are asking $11k for it, I'm hoping to talk them down, but I don't know much about these vehicles so I'm not sure if its worth that type of investment. I would still need to drop a few Gs into it for it to be where I want it for myself.

Few detail pics attached. Let me know what you guys think! I owned a Jeep once before and I would love to be part of the Jeep gang again! Also, anything I should specifically be looking for? I will definitely be giving it a good test drive, testing its highway speed (will need to travel to get to anything fun), and the 4WD. Its automatic so its got the Chrysler transmission looming over me but I can deal with it if it comes up.

 

[SDDiver5]

Looks pretty solid if you ask me. Normal times, I'd say 10-11k is on the high side but given the current used car market I think 10k is just about spot on. Mileage isn't bad considering age. Any exterior pics? XJ is my favorite jeep body style and I wanted one for many years. Interior looks super clean too most are junk. Do they have pics of what it looked like prior to painting the underside?

I know they have overheating issues when they get a little older so I'd have that checked out as well as have it looked over by a Jeep mechanic for a better idea. With proper care the 4.0 will last you at least another 100k.

Coming from a V8 guy...I have always felt that most jeeps are under powered which is why I never got one.

 

[TantoTrailers]

Some exterior pics, I love black vehicles!!

 

[SDDiver5]

Looks pretty clean. I strongly dislike those wheels tho! Reminds me of my mean old neighbor when i was growing up and his Jeep GC he had.

I say go take a look and nice long test drive.

 

[BritKLR]

I've had three XJ's, two with over 250k. Great rigs and may end up with another one as a mountain run about but, this seems a bit over priced, more like $7k - $8k and that's in Colorado, less in the flat lands. Good luck.

Little things to look at in addition to HG on the 2000 model year: battery tray rust that will migrate to the front fender panel and rust it from the inside out, check for rust at the upper rear shock mount making shock replacement a cutting torch job, check climate controls all function (vacuum operated and prone to leak), rough idle and hard restart when hot (older fuel injectors overheat/vapor lock and require heat shields), door trim will come loose and jam against the front edge of the fenders and actually bend the sheet metal, failing seals on A/C, leaking radiator, brittle interior body panels that will crack and break.......Good luck!

 

[scrubber3]

2 things:

1: that's too much money in my opinion. In 2017 I bought a rust free 2001 example with 175000 miles. It only cost me $1500. Needed a bit of work but it's a fine rig. Unless you just want a cherry XJ, I wouldn't purchase it, especially if you decide to offroad it.

2: the transmission isn't a Chrysler. It's an Aisin Warner. A very good transmission that is also easy to work on if needed. Big IF.

 

[TantoTrailers]

Test drove it, seems like it runs fine, I put it in 4 high and 4 low and it engaged and disengaged fine. I did notice a wheezing sound which I think started after the 4WD test but I was a bit too excited in the beginning to remember...I did test drive another XJ of the same year with less miles and the sound wasn’t there so it’s probably something that needs attention.

I agree that it’s a bit expensive for a 21 year old Jeep and the dealer would not budge on the price. However, I’m finding it damn near impossible to find anything that isn’t full of rust out here in the Midwest. The salt winters are brutal! I have found options in the sub 6k range but they all have rust concerns. With this at least I would be on a decent body for some time!

Any ideas what the wheezing may be? It seemed to increase with the RPMs, I will go back and test drive it again but I doubt the shop would to much to try to identify the noise, they were chalking up all of the things I was pointing out to age...which they set up from the start stating that we need to set our expectations appropriately now not buying a ‘21...buying a 21 yo...

I did notice a tiny drop of oil accumulating near the oil plug and asked, same answer, “age, seals shrink, we add a Napa product that helps them expand”. I get that but for 11k I don’t really want to be putting much more money into it up front.

Visually it’s great, tires have a bit of cracking going on so they will need an upgrade.

Also the window buttons only work on the drivers door panel, the others are non functional, maybe bad window lock button?

So...window controls, wheezing, and a bit of oil drip (there was no oil in the spot the Jeep was parked on display so it’s not an active leak? Maybe from a sloppy oil change?)

What do you all think?


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[86scotty]

That is a $3k old school SUV, or was a few years ago. Nowadays I see them pretty clean for $7-8 in the Southeast, but honestly I can't say I've seen one that clean in a long time. Also, you can only find one unmolested (stock) XJ out of every 500. The other 499 have the same black wheels, lift and cut fenders.

I've had a few and love the trucks but I personally could not part with that much money for one knowing how they were on every corner for a couple grand just a few years ago.

We're in this strange otherworld lately where things that typically drop in value by the second, like old no-frills American made SUV's, are actually appreciating in value. That said, now is the time to sell, not to buy.

If you want one though........

 

[Charles R]

Personally, I'd only pay that for a vehicle make and model I plan to keep in original and semi pristine condition. It's certainly a pretty nice survivor. But for me there's other, newer and bigger, options for that price.

While I know it's not for everyone... I found my current Heep several states away. The one-way flight was only $103, and the road trip back took 2.5 days.
I use www.searchtempest.com to view all the Craigslists across to country.

 

[zgfiredude]

They are few and far between in that kind of outward condition. It IS 21 years old, seals well leak, steering parts will be worn, it will need some maintenance here and there. Has it been re-painted? The badging is gone, and it's awfully shiny. Verify that in addition to the undercarriage they haven't "put lipstick on a pig" so to speak. From the photos it looks to be nice. If you intend to keep it a long time, probably worth the money. Can you get a third party pre-purchase inspection? Waving cash at them and being prepared to walk away will likely lower the price a bit.......but if they dumped some money in it, they might not have the room to move.

 

[Rutz-Carlton]

Honestly, as the owner of one of these, I hope you pay that much! It does seem high, but that rig appears to be in good condition.

Agree with the other comment that the transmission in these is almost as bulletproof as the straight 6.

Personally, I prefer the NP242 transfer case, which adds a full-time 4WD (great in the snow, or just set it and forget it, if you want), but some say the xfer case in this one is slightly more robust.

Wiring gremlins and seeping seals are par for the course. My understanding is that the window controls all connect through the front passenger controls, so that's the area to check. That said, they saved millions by using tiny gauge wires throughout these vehicles (and actually marketed it as a plus), so you'll likely be chasing cracked wires in the boots for the rest of its life, if you hope to have everything working.

If everything checks out with a PPE, the bottom line is that I would pull the trigger. However, if you're going to take to it with the sawzall, you're paying for the nice stock condition for no reason. If the plan is to mod it beyond recognition, you might keep looking for one where you're not paying that premium.

These are great vehicles that last forever if you treat them well, and they are affordable to maintain and mod.

And don't worry about the "small" engine. There's a surplus of torque where it counts, and those 4 liters are pulling only about 3k pounds stock.

 

[TantoTrailers]

They are few and far between in that kind of outward condition. It IS 21 years old, seals well leak, steering parts will be worn, it will need some maintenance here and there. Has it been re-painted? The badging is gone, and it's awfully shiny. Verify that in addition to the undercarriage they haven't "put lipstick on a pig" so to speak. From the photos it looks to be nice. If you intend to keep it a long time, probably worth the money. Can you get a third party pre-purchase inspection? Waving cash at them and being prepared to walk away will likely lower the price a bit.......but if they dumped some money in it, they might not have the room to move.

So it has been repainted, but I looked it over closely and there isn't any covered up rust in the lipstick on a pig scenario. They didnt paint it, I think it was the previous owner. It is a decent drive out of state for me, so I don't know who I would take it to or bring along with me to perform the inspection.

If everything checks out with a PPE, the bottom line is that I would pull the trigger.

What is PPE? (sorry I feel like a newbie)

I wish I could bring you guys with me =) but then I might have to fight some of you for it......

 

[OverlandNA]

Windows will no doubt be broken wires in the area between the body & driver and passenger doors. They get work hardened from bending when the doors are opened & closed, then break.
There are plastic plugs in the rear quarter panels aft of the wheel wells. Pull them and check inside for rust/bondo.
Common oil leaks are rear main seal, oil filter adaptor o-ring, front crank seal and valve cover. So yeah, most seals.
2000 and 2001 4.0l heads are known to crack between cyl 3&4 and allow coolant into the oil. This causes crank & cam bearing wear.
$4500 tops.

 

[NatersXJ6]

This is interesting. I’ve noticed the local junkyards are now crushing every classic Cherokee with a loader bucket when they come in. Probably to keep people from asking if they can buy these rust free bodies and try to rebuild salvages to flip into this insane market. I’ve had a Cherokee, and liked it, but there is no way it would get 11k from me. Sad though, because some of them are really clean and just need mechanical/electrical overhauls.

 

[Rutz-Carlton]

So it has been repainted, but I looked it over closely and there isn't any covered up rust in the lipstick on a pig scenario. They didnt paint it, I think it was the previous owner. It is a decent drive out of state for me, so I don't know who I would take it to or bring along with me to perform the inspection.



What is PPE? (sorry I feel like a newbie)

I wish I could bring you guys with me =) but then I might have to fight some of you for it......

PPE is a pre-purchase ... inspection. I guess I meant PPI. Ha.

Even if you don't know where to bring it, it's worth finding a random independent mechanic with decent online reviews and spending a few bucks to have it checked out. Money well spent, and it will be a small percentage of this top-dollar asking price in the long run.