2000 F250 Budget Build

[ForgetTheStatusQuo]

I guess its time to start a build thread. Starting out with a 2000 F250 7.3 Diesel, 4R100 Auto Trans, Edge Evo Programmer, 6" Rough Country Lift, 4" Exhaust, Cold Air Intake, and Eagle Alloy 102 wheels. Truck has 220k miles on it. Short term plan is to paint the wheels, install larger tires, shocks, possibly lower the truck 2", add a slide in camper, add motorcycle carriers front and rear, and add a winch bumper and winch.


The bed is rusted above the wheel wells. The cab corners need replaced bed floor supports are severely rusted. They wont support the weight of a camper, so the first step was to remove the bed:




The gooseneck hitch would be nice to have, but its gonna get in the way of the camper so it had to go. It was a PITA to remove as it was rusted solid.


Trying to decide if I should weld in new bed rail supports and add fender flares to cover the rust above the wheel wells or buy a $1500-2000 late model bed for it.

A local electrical contractor has a brand new take off late model bed sitting in their yard. Will call to find out if its for sale tomorrow.

 

[F350joe]

Good time to harpoon the fuel tank and clean the fuel tank filters.

 

[ForgetTheStatusQuo]

Good time to harpoon the fuel tank and clean the fuel tank filters.

Pulled the pickup out of the tank today. The foot was broken off. Hutch mod kit ordered. Harpoon mod coming soon.

 

[ForgetTheStatusQuo]

This is what the fuel foot that broke off looks like. I found it at the bottom of the fuel tank. New one ordered.

This is the hutch mod kit. The return line on the 7.3 agitates the fuel right next to the pickup and introduces air into the injectors. The hutch mod routes the return fuel away from the pickup eliminating the issue. Supposedly it makes the engine run quieter and increases MPG. It also eliminates the in-tank pre filters, which tend to become clogged, and relocates the pre filter to the frame rail.

Anyone have any idea what should be on this barb? A check valve? A vent hose?


Rusty cab corners will be replaced before putting the bed back on


The passenger rear door was fubar'd.


Couldn't find a nice white door for less than $350 so I bought this one for $50. It will need a little bodywork at the bottom, but I plan on bedlining the lower 1/3 of the truck and it should cover it.


Leave the frame alone or Por15/Rust Bullet/Chassis Saver it?

 

[ForgetTheStatusQuo]

New bed rails have arrived!


Gonna try out this $50 welding cart from amazon as my old one wasn't big enough to hold my argon cylinder.

 

[F350joe]

I think that is a second vent on the larger fuel tanks. I don’t know about the por15, seems like it becomes more a pain after a few years. The other stuff you really have to make sure you get all the rust when prepping or it will bubble up again. I hit mine with some Pb Blaster every once and while and it seems to work pretty good and leaves a protective coat. It sure is tempting to paint it though when you have it open like that.

Looking forward to see how she comes out.

 

[Buliwyf]

Pressure wash it. Apply Metal Ready as per it's instructions. Then park it in the grass somewhere and brush it down with Monstaliner Chassis Saver (black). Works great. Drys hard and smoothish, mud is easier to rinse off. 2 gallons should be plenty.

 

[ForgetTheStatusQuo]

Here's what I'm up against:





Started removing the bed rails today. Drilling the spot welds was definitely the best way to do it. Tried a 40 grit flap disc and the edge of a cutting wheel with no luck. The metal is just too thick and not flat enough. The bed floor is a little warped at the rail that was crumbled, but I'm just gonna have to go with it.


I think I'm gonna cut the rust out of the wheel wells and cover with fender flares and wheel tub liners. I'm thinking the liners will keep mud out of the bed rails and prevent them from rusting again. Anybody got any recommendations on what brands to get for both? I'd rather not spend $300 on a set of Bushwacker flares unless they're really worth it. I'd like to get some that actually bolt onto the fenders.

 

[Explorerinil]

Looks like a fun build, I personally would POR 15 the frame while everything is off

 

[Buliwyf]

BW makes cut out fender flares for that year tuck. You can run massive tires under those with just a leveling kit.

Bad example, but you get the idea: