2000 Ford 7.3L Motovan build (225's build cont'd)

[CaptainBuilt]

Overheating and oil leaks.

I've been avoiding fixing the oil leaks on the van for the whole summer. Winter is coming sooner than later, so time to get to it. I've also realized that the leaks are getting worse.

I'm positive that the leaks are coming from the HPOP. Or maybe the turbo pedestal, or both. I also have a leak around the power steering pump.

List to be replaced:

HPOP rebuild kit.
Power steering pump.
Crossover oil lines.
IPR valve.
CPS sensor.
HPOP Reservoir gasket.
Oil Pan dipstick gasket.

I'm getting overheating here and there. My guess, is the radiator / water pump / thermostat / fan clutch.

Since I just put in a new radiator, I can cross that off the list. The rest will be replaced.

 

[Bikersmurf]

I’d lean towards the clutch fan... when I fixed the A/C on my ‘97 a couple years back, the clutch was inadequate to handle the A/C. Now that said, when I replaced the clutch fan I also replaced the thermostat, the water pump, and all the hoses.

 

[CaptainBuilt]

I’d lean towards the clutch fan... when I fixed the A/C on my ‘97 a couple years back, the clutch was inadequate to handle the A/C. Now that said, when I replaced the clutch fan I also replaced the thermostat, the water pump, and all the hoses.

A guy I work with says the same thing. I'm stuck on a boat for 3 more weeks, but when I get in, I'm changing that for sure.

 

[luthj]

The fan clutch is a very critical part of any cooling system. Often neglected, and regularly responsible for poor performance.

 

[CaptainBuilt]

The fan clutch is a very critical part of any cooling system. Often neglected, and regularly responsible for poor performance.

Especially on a van with 365k on the clock. The more I work on this van, the more "shortcuts" I find that someone has taken in the past.

Wheels showed up today. After lots of thinking, and researching, I'm going with BFG KO2's 285x70R17E (33x11.50).

 

[Bbasso]

33s on a 6in lift?

 

[CaptainBuilt]

33s on a 6in lift?

4" lift. I still need to stop by and pick up the rear wheel adapters and add a leaf. But, I'm ready to go!

Wheels are Vision 85 Soft 8's. 17x9, 8x170, -12 offset, 4.5 backspacing.

Also on the way is a Pit Bull Trailer restraint system. It's a plate that bolts to the floor, and has pins that go in your rear axle. No other straps, chocks, or anything else is needed to hold the bike in place. It's a nifty device.

Not my bike:

My bike:

I'm already working out the plans for the rear axle. Not sure if I want a ARB air locker or a TrueTrac. I'll mostly be on snowy / icy mountain roads.

 

[CaptainBuilt]

Parts ordered:

Fan clutch.
4WD output shaft.
4WD transmission tail shaft steel housing with sensor hole.
Transmission rebuild kit. I'll be rebuilding the transmission myself.

I have a low mileage NV273 (electronic shift), but will probably go with a UJOR transfer case.

My main priority after getting the 4WD kit installed is getting the rear axle sorted. I'll be using a ARB Air Locker, new 4.10 gears, and axle shafts. Which also means rebuilding the rear end with new pads, rotors, bearings, and paint.

Looking forward....

The quest for 550hp+.

I'll be posting pics / part numbers for the engine build I have coming up after I'm finished with 4WD, and bumpers.

I'll show how I build a DIY lift pump / regulated fuel return system. Also, ARP head studs / fire ring conversion. Along with a new HPOP, injectors and intercooler install.

________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

Since I work on a boat, I'd thought I'd show you guys this little fella. Any dude will enjoy this.

These "harbor tugs" are small. They're usually around 55-56' long. But have a very deep draft, around 17-19'. The "tractor tugs" of this variety, have wheels that can turn 360 degrees Z-Drives. And the wheels on these boats are HUGE. Usually 10' tall.

Also, these style boats are anywhere from 4,000 all the way up to 8,000 hp. Which is totally insane for their size.

 

[cjken]

Excited to see what you come up with for the 7.3 motor build!!!

 

[CaptainBuilt]

Tires are mounted:

 

[CaptainBuilt]

Kinda started on it. I won't officially start until Monday.

I need a ball joint puller. My pickle fork gave up the ghost:

Bumper, and sway bar off.

 

[CaptainBuilt]

I cant for the life of me get the radius arm bolts off. They don't seem rusted or anything. And on the passenger side, the exhaust is in the way, so I'll have to pull that off.

I'm going to try a propane torch. Worst case they will get the plasma cutter treatment.

I also got the ball joints off with a separator tool. Worked like a charm.

 

[CaptainBuilt]

I thought that the radius arm brackets unbolted from the inside. I was wrong. I cut one head off a bolt and still needed to get it out. My solution, weld another bolt to it.

The carnage:

Not sure what's going on, haven't used my plasma since I've moved here. But I don't think we have enough power to push it. So, I had to use a grinder to cut the cross member.

I need a hole saw, and hopefully HD or Lowe's has a right angle drill. Shock mounts are welded in. All that's left is to drill the rear holes (no pun there...), and mount everything up!

 

[bknudtsen]

Not a lot of room for a right angle drill once the hole saw is attached. I used one of those convertible head multi tools with a right angle attachment. It’s guts were literally smoking by the end of it. Lots of cutting oil and patience are key. Have fun!

 

[CaptainBuilt]

Not a lot of room for a right angle drill once the hole saw is attached. I used one of those convertible head multi tools with a right angle attachment. It’s guts were literally smoking by the end of it. Lots of cutting oil and patience are key. Have fun!

I'm afraid of that. Milwaukee makes a M12 right angle saw I'm gonna try. I'm almost there!