2000 Ford 7.3L Motovan build (225's build cont'd)

CaptainBuilt

Well-known member
Couldn't get the rear springs out? Explain?

I can't get loose the bolts that hold the springs on. I've tried everything even a breaker bar with a floor jack. I only have the mid torque impact wrench, not the big one. And on my sloped driveway, it's real sketchy using a jack stand to hole the van up when lowering the axle.

Any suggestions?

I saw this photo and thought of this thread...
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Yea buddy! That's what I'm doing Wednesday and this weekend!
 

CaptainBuilt

Well-known member
Mine had red loctite on them. Little heat may work to loosen it up. I used my buddies wicked ass impact(1100lbft) and it barely did the trick.

I'm dropping it off at a shop in the morning.

Today was the best day for Deal's Gap. And probably the last day of the year. The van's butt is sagging, still a good pic tho.

xOKkYgVl.jpg


Fat man on a motorbike:

rHRduEOl.jpg


rcR8c4Yl.jpg
 

Bikersmurf

Expedition Leader
Today I have finished everything I can finish. I did the rear shocks, which I don't wish that job on my worst enemy. And installed the front sway bar.

I got some new (used) springs today. Mine were clapped out. Thanks for the springs, you know who you are. I can't get the old ones off, so I'm gonna drop the van off to get them installed in the morning.

New springs with add a leaf installed:

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I really need to stop going by UJOR. I always buy stuff:

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I'm going to camp at Deal's Gap all weekend. Needed some new sticky buns for the bike!

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Also, my bike lift:

Up:

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In:

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Ready to roll:

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Rear shocks... after cursing swearing and blowing up a couple grinding discs, I filled up the tanks on the hot wrench (after 12 years empty) and burned the nuts off in about 30 seconds. Sometimes it’s all about having the right tool for the job.

I highly recommend wearing a flameproof coat... I got hit in about 5 places with molten slag that should’ve hurt like hell... the plus side of nerve issues :D


It didn’t help that the Ambo box barely clears the nuts and it’s almost impossible to get any wrench on the nut.
 

CaptainBuilt

Well-known member
Rear shocks... after cursing swearing and blowing up a couple grinding discs, I filled up the tanks on the hot wrench (after 12 years empty) and burned the nuts off in about 30 seconds. Sometimes it’s all about having the right tool for the job.

I highly recommend wearing a flameproof coat... I got hit in about 5 places with molten slag that should’ve hurt like hell... the plus side of nerve issues :D


It didn’t help that the Ambo box barely clears the nuts and it’s almost impossible to get any wrench on the nut.

I came so close to buying a kit the other day. I should have lol.


I have a ******** ton of wiring to run I haven't done yet. But all the hard parts are on.

OBA (on board air) port on and Rigid Hyperspots:

zOVNmUhl.jpg


OBA system in, still need to run the wiring:

qEPJfr7l.jpg


I couldn't find a good way to mount the rear air port on the bumper and still make it look decent. So I tucked it up under the van. Still very easy to get to:

oy5umZql.jpg


I've also been working on my DIY switch relay harness.

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Bikersmurf

Expedition Leader
So far my OBA on this rig is just a high output 12V compressor without a tank. On my 40 I've got a converted A/C compressor, 4 Gal tank, air bags, oil & water separator, and 2 air regulators. One regulator for the air bags (ride height control), and the other to bring the 120-150 psi in the tank down (controlled by 'Furnas' pressure switch) to around 90 psi for air tools (and when I get around to it the air horns).
 

CaptainBuilt

Well-known member
So far my OBA on this rig is just a high output 12V compressor without a tank. On my 40 I've got a converted A/C compressor, 4 Gal tank, air bags, oil & water separator, and 2 air regulators. One regulator for the air bags (ride height control), and the other to bring the 120-150 psi in the tank down (controlled by 'Furnas' pressure switch) to around 90 psi for air tools (and when I get around to it the air horns).

Which compressor do you have? I finally wired mine up. Just turned it on for a sec, not even long enough to fill the tank.

I made my first long trip in the van yesterday. I work on a boat, and it's a 12 hour drive. I usually stop and sleep in the van at some point during the drive.

Handling:

The handling of the van was great. When I made it to Atlanta (4 hours in), the ABS cable was rubbing the rotor and gave the ABS light. A zip tie fixed that, but I'll replace the cable when I get back home.

Gearing:

The van came with 3.55 gears, and with the bigger tires, it suuuuuucccks. The transmission is always hunting and stays in OD when it's not supposed to. And the revs are way higher, so are my EGT's. Gearing is top of the list.

I stopped in Louisiana, and it was still in the 30's. I have a roof vent, just not powered yet. I opened it all the way and cracked the two front windows and ran the Mr. Buddy heater all night.

Lots of in cab condensation from the propane. But no stinky fumes and my Co2 monitor didn't go off. So a success. I'll be switching to a wave 3 shortly.

Keeping me toasty:

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When I get back in, gearing is first. Then maybe trans and t case.
 

Pangle

Wanderer
UGH! I have been debating doing the UJOR kit on my 96 E350 for a few weeks now... I would be doing it in my driveway also, how many hours do you think you have in it? Thanks for the write up
 

CaptainBuilt

Well-known member
UGH! I have been debating doing the UJOR kit on my 96 E350 for a few weeks now... I would be doing it in my driveway also, how many hours do you think you have in it? Thanks for the write up

It took me about 4, solid 8 hour days to be driving. It was hard work and it wasn't easy. That being said, I'm %1000 glad I did it.

I still need gearing in the rear end in the worst way. I have 3.55's in it now and need 4.10's.
 

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