2000 GMT400 K2500 Work Truck

Flazer

Observer
Well when I closed my Bronco thread I said I'd make a new thread for the Chevy. I did not. Life got pretty busy for a while and I had a kid as well as changed jobs a couple of times. Now things are more stable, the truck has sat a little and I'm starting to upgrade and repair parts to make it a more reliable and capable off road and hunting/camping truck.

The rig:

This truck is a 2000 Chevrolet K2500 fleet vehicle carryover from the GMT400 line. They made these trucks in 2500 and 3500 configurations for the 99 and 00 model years.

This vehicle was owned by Carson City street department and was a service vehicle for larger equipment. Originally it came with tool boxes, a lumper rack, and a diesel aux tank. I sold those off because I wasn't going to be using them.

The truck has 125k miles on it, a dingy interior from being a work truck, but is in good mechanical shape.

Specs:
5.7L Vortec engine
4L80E transmission
NP241 manual shift transfer case
8 lug 14 bolt semi-float rear axle
9.25 AAM front differential

Things I've done since buying in 2016:
Replaced a CV axle
Power Track No Slip locker in the rear
New stereo
Camper shell - scored from a guy that bought it new for his Chevy and kept it in good shape.
Plastic bed liner (picked up for free). - this helps with the rough work truck bed.
Bilstein 4600s
Master cylinder and brake issues


Plans:
Maintenance items such as:
Tie rods
Sway bar end links
Front suspension and steering refresh as needed
Address some leaks (oil I think)
Wheels and tires (thinking 33", currently 235/85r16 pizza cutters on stock 6.5" wheels)
Level front end with torsion bar crank
Bumpers?
Winch?
Lights
Sleeping set up for rear.
Address the infamous GM white paint issues.

Would love any recommendations or pointers from other GMT400 people.

Also, the bed doesn't match the cab (GMC vs Chevy) and includes a dent in the rear quarter panel that one of the workers caused when he jack-knifed a utility trailer into that side. Oh well, don't have to worry about scuffing it now!

Pics


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phsycle

Adventurer
Looks good. I personally think you should leave the rims and front bumper. Love the old school look, especially if you go 255/85/16 (33”) skinnies. And the factory bumper. Love that look.
 

Flazer

Observer
It's intriguing for sure. You don't see many trucks with that tire size, but I'd be interested to see how they look. I do prefer the WT look.

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toastyjosh

Adventurer
Nice truck!
255/85/16 is a prefect tire size for these truck's. Don't for get to get some tie rod sleeves when you do your tie rods, this will keep you tie rods alive longer.
 
Looking forward to your choice of tire size. I’m currently running 265/75 (31.6 inches) but interested in the 255s. The stock 245/75s are pitifully small.
 

Flazer

Observer
Nice truck!
255/85/16 is a prefect tire size for these truck's. Don't for get to get some tie rod sleeves when you do your tie rods, this will keep you tie rods alive longer.
Yeah i'm looking into that. Any suggestions? I see aftermarket stuff for the next gen trucks but not the OBS like mine. Might have to be all custom, or shell out nearly $400 for kryptonites?

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Flazer

Observer
Bit of an update, I've been collecting front suspension parts to rebuild the truck.

So far I've gathered tie rod ends, upper control arms (with ball joints), sway bar end links, idler arm, pitman arm, tie rod sleeves (Cunningham machine). I'm going to also grab lower A arm bushings, lower ball joints, and probably sway bar bushings.

All parts are AC Delco pro line parts except the tie rod ends (MevoTech TTX) and the sleeves. The end links are Moog.

I also replaced the door bushings and pins because they had the typical sag. This was an absolute pain in the ass. The replacement bushings sold at any auto parts store are absolute garbage and didn't even fit one of my doors. I had to drill out the holes for them, then reshape them with a Dremel, and JB weld them into place. And the door still sags.

For those looking to do the same job, get a short 9/16 bit and a right angle drill adapter to do it. Cunningham machine makes a bronze bushing (wish I had known before attempting repair). Live and learn, if I have to replace them again, I'll have to replace the whole hinge.

Here's a pic of my brother and dad struggling through the hinges.

I have a newborn and a 2 year old, so progress has slowed. Hoping to finish changing fluids this month and isolate a leak I have. Suspension will take some time.

32a66e29bf17cfdbe15a91ba45c179b2.jpg
143c7d307aa16a33c0a7a0631ea2a17b.jpg


Sent from my Pixel 3a XL using Tapatalk
 
Bit of an update, I've been collecting front suspension parts to rebuild the truck.

So far I've gathered tie rod ends, upper control arms (with ball joints), sway bar end links, idler arm, pitman arm, tie rod sleeves (Cunningham machine). I'm going to also grab lower A arm bushings, lower ball joints, and probably sway bar bushings.

All parts are AC Delco pro line parts except the tie rod ends (MevoTech TTX) and the sleeves. The end links are Moog.

I also replaced the door bushings and pins because they had the typical sag. This was an absolute pain in the ass. The replacement bushings sold at any auto parts store are absolute garbage and didn't even fit one of my doors. I had to drill out the holes for them, then reshape them with a Dremel, and JB weld them into place. And the door still sags.

For those looking to do the same job, get a short 9/16 bit and a right angle drill adapter to do it. Cunningham machine makes a bronze bushing (wish I had known before attempting repair). Live and learn, if I have to replace them again, I'll have to replace the whole hinge.

Here's a pic of my brother and dad struggling through the hinges.

I have a newborn and a 2 year old, so progress has slowed. Hoping to finish changing fluids this month and isolate a leak I have. Suspension will take some time.

32a66e29bf17cfdbe15a91ba45c179b2.jpg
143c7d307aa16a33c0a7a0631ea2a17b.jpg


Sent from my Pixel 3a XL using Tapatalk
Nice build, you'll have a nice rig with that refresh. One thing I'd check is that the tie rod sleeves fit on your tie rods, I ran into issues on my '02 GMC when I switched to Moog tie rods and the sleeves didn't fit over the new tie rods because of them being a different shape than factory rods. Although yours might be a different design IIRC
 

Flazer

Observer
Nice build, you'll have a nice rig with that refresh. One thing I'd check is that the tie rod sleeves fit on your tie rods, I ran into issues on my '02 GMC when I switched to Moog tie rods and the sleeves didn't fit over the new tie rods because of them being a different shape than factory rods. Although yours might be a different design IIRC
I did a dry fit and they seem to fit. These are the beefier axle sleeves from Cunningham machine rather than the clamp on style. They're more like threaded bars.

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BritKLR

Kapitis Indagatoris
Love this Gen of trucks. Got a 97 GMC K2500 (rare Z-71 package option) all OEM pushing 200k and a 95 Chevy K2500 Tiger pushing 180k. Solid, tough, reliable and capable rigs. Keep up the great build!

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Flazer

Observer
Love this Gen of trucks. Got a 97 GMC K2500 (rare Z-71 package option) all OEM pushing 200k and a 95 Chevy K2500 Tiger pushing 180k. Solid, tough, reliable and capable rigs. Keep up the great build!

View attachment 671610
Would love to see more info on your Tiger. I just found out about the Provan Tiger Astro conversions, and man I love them!

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