Body lift heater core hose problems and solution
Two weeks after installing the body lift I did a 20mile 4x4 tail, 5 miles in low coolant light turned on. I pulled over (stopped right in the middle of the trail) popped the hood and noticed that one of the hoses connected to the front heater core is not attached. GM uses super amazing plastic quick connectors to attach the heater lines from the water pump to the heater core. Two T connectors and two quick disconnects. One of them broke. I removed the broken piece, released the hose fro the clamp to gain extra slack in the line, re-connected it bypassing the quick connector and finished the trail. Returned back into town, replaced the broken part and that was it 3-4 months ago.
Couple days ago, once again on a trail, low coolant light turns on, I can smell antifreeze. Little puzzled, I look for the cause.
I outdid myself this time I snapped the connectors of both lines.
Another angle. Left, black connector, I snapped off the part of the T-connector itself, the quick release I broke and replaced months ago was still attached and undamaged. Right side, the white quick connector broke off just like the one couple months ago on the black side.
Dorman black T-connector part 800-414CD, Dorman white T-connector part 800-413CD, black quick connect Dorman part number 800-403. White quick connector does not exist outside the GM dealer, Dorman 800-403 connector works. Playing with the parts even more both the white and black T-connectors are interchangeable on my truck. Black T-connector is 2mm longer than the white counter part, go figure.
I just happen to have a 1/2" piece of pipe laying in my spare parts bin, used it to connect the two hoses together to make it a closed loop system rendering the heat inoperable in this 102 degree heat.
After closing off the leak, I topped off the cooling system with 2galons of water and we continued our 4x4 adventure. I finished my planned adventure, even had a chance to shoot some videos of the Sub navigating obstacles at the local OHV park, video in an earlier post. The following day I decided to trouble shoot and fix the problem. The truck is 17 years old with 1/4 million miles, I do beat the crap out of it but two parts breaking in the same area this close together is not normal.
I removed the quick connector from the white T-connector by breaking the quick connector completely.
Black quick connector came off easily from the aluminum lines by squeezing the tabs/wings and pulling out.
Black T-connector completely removed. White T-connector is still attached. I believe in if it ain't broke don't fix it, if it still works then it ain't broke. None of that prophylactic part replacement, I can't afford to replace my entire truck.
Old broken T-connector and new connector.
Once the T-connector was replaced I routed heater hoses to try and figure out why they keep on braking. I aligned the hoses into the clamps with the white lines marking where they should sit.
This was my first look at how the hoses sat in relation to the connectors. ******, thats not right, no wonder they keep on snapping on me.
Much better angle. There is a 2-3" gap between the hoses and the T-piece connector. Even if I would have had the quick connectors attached to the hoses, there would still be a 1-2" gap. Apparently when I swapped out my buddies body lift into my truck I did not notice that the heater core hoses needed to be extended. Off-roading makes the motor wiggle so much that the tension on the 17 year old plastic parts causes them to break.
New hoses cut to correct length and attached to the quick connectors which are attached to the T-connectors.
Another angle of the T-connectors with hoses attached.
Plenty of slack for spirited driving and off-roading without putting any extra strain on the plastic connectors.
Both hoses sit very comfortably in the appropriate clamp groves.
I had to cut the return hose (I'm guessing that its the return hose) and use a 5/8" heater hose coupler to run the new hose to the quick connects.
Stay tuned for more shenanigans.