2001 DII having trouble shifting to low range-??

[Brian McVickers]

Hi,
I'm having difficulty shifting into low range in my DII.
The lever won't move properly through it's full range of motion to engage.

I've tried rolling forward at different speeds in neutral and also tried reving the engine at different speeds in neutral while moving the lever back and forth. The last time it took ten minutes of fiddling to get into low and another ten minutes of fiddling to get back into high.

Is anyone familiar with the linkage involved?
Is it a cable or rigid connection?
What is the most likely issue or other possible issues?
What are the likely fixes?

Thanks!
Brian

 

[R_Lefebvre]

Sounds like it quite possibly needs to be adjusted, or lubed. If you've been struggling with it, you might have stretched the cable. From the Rave CD, which any LR owner should have: (I actually have it burned to a CD which I carry in the truck 24/7.)

On vehicle fitted with a differential lock, the high/low range selector lever as fitted on previous models also
incorporates the differential lock selector on vehicles from 03 model year.
The lever can be moved forwards or backwards to select high, neutral or low range or sideways to select differential
lock engaged or disengaged, on vehicles with differential lock fitted.
The selector lever assembly comprises an aluminium casting with bosses for location of the two cables, the selector
lever mechanism and a housing for the interlock solenoid (if fitted). The upper face of the casting has threaded holes
which allow for the attachment of the casting to the mounting plate which is attached to the transmission tunnel.
A boss at the front provides location for the differential lock cable. The cable is attached to a lever which in turn is
attached to the selector lever. Movement of the selector lever is passed via the lever to the cable which moves the
differential lock selector shaft.
A second boss provides for the location of the high/low range cable. The cable is attached to a plate which moves in
a forward or rearward direction with the selector lever. On North American and Japanese specification models, plate
movement is prevented by an interlock solenoid when the ignition key is not in the ignition.
When fitted, the interlock solenoid is located on the right hand side of the selector lever casting. The solenoid is fitted
into a cast housing in the casting and retained with a circlip. Sealant is applied over the circlip to seal the solenoid in
the housing to prevent the ingress of dirt and moisture. The solenoid performs the same function as on previous
models, preventing the selection of neutral on the transfer box when the ignition key is not in the ignition.
A setting procedure is required for both the differential lock cable and the high/low range cable.

2. Using a suitable crows foot spanner, loosen
lock nuts securing outer cable to abutment
bracket.
3. Select high range by moving lever on transfer
gearbox fully forward.
4. Insert tool LRT-41-016 through hole in selector
lever and housing. This ensures selector
lever is in the high range position.
5. Lightly tighten outer cable lock nuts.
6. Remove tool LRT-41-016 from gear selector
lever and housing.
7. Simultaneously tighten high/low selector cable
lock nuts either side of abutment bracket to 30
Nm (22 lbf.ft) .
8. Lower vehicle on ramp.

 

[muskyman]

If the lever moves but not freely then its most likely a rusty or damaged cable

I have seen this just recently on a 04 soccer mom truck that my friend owns. they had never used the shifter in 90000 miles.

the lock cable had been contaminated and was frozen solid.

 

[JEFFSGTP]

could also be the solenoid (low-high nuetral safety?) they put on NAS models (only) as a safety measure. Street Wolfs went bad and we had to take the solenoid out, cut the plunger rod off and reinstall it (applying electricity pulls the plunger in), been doing fine ever since. if its the solenoid it will not go in and you will fight and fight with it then all of a sudden it will just go in like it had no problem whatsoever. if it moves but not freely then its the linkage. Just an Idea...hope it helps

 

[muskyman]

could also be the solenoid (low-high nuetral safety?) they put on NAS models (only) as a safety measure. Street Wolfs went bad and we had to take the solenoid out, cut the plunger rod off and reinstall it (applying electricity pulls the plunger in), been doing fine ever since. if its the solenoid it will not go in and you will fight and fight with it then all of a sudden it will just go in like it had no problem whatsoever. if it moves but not freely then its the linkage. Just an Idea...hope it helps

then it would not move at all.

 

[JEFFSGTP]

then it would not move at all.

He doesn't really make it specifically clear that its not moving at all vs it moves but is binding (saying your having a hard time shifting is not the same as describing what its doing and what the shifter lever feels like when your doing it). I just figured the idea might be nice to know about as we racked our brains for a while trying to figure out our problem.

 

[bovw]

Hi,
The lever won't move properly through it's full range of motion to engage.

The last time it took ten minutes of fiddling to get into low and another ten minutes of fiddling to get back into high.

As Thom stated, if it was the soleniod it won't move. OP clearly said it is moving, but not properly. Getting into low and back into hi constitutes movement of the shifter, even with difficulty.

 

[R_Lefebvre]

Do we have to fight about this now too? Holy cow.

 

[bovw]

Do we have to fight about this now too? Holy cow.

I thought my post was pretty civil. How do you get fighting out of that?

 

[UK4X4]

high low shifter,

before digging in -its a painfull job through the center console

locate a d1 shifter mechanism, so then you'l have center diff lock (if you have an early 2001)

Remove and throw away solenoid on the shifter mechanism, you'l find out why soon enough ..!!

remove the d2 linkage - remove the low solenoid and throw away-keep the cover and hylamar well the hole where the wires went through.

Install d1 mechnism

test for operation

rebuild the center console.


I had my solenoid go, some times it would go in to low gear sometimes not, just depended on the ruddy little worthless plunger being 1mm higher.

when replacing steel rivited plate use sheet metal screws.....for next time !

 

[JEFFSGTP]

As Thom stated, if it was the soleniod it won't move. OP clearly said it is moving, but not properly. Getting into low and back into hi constitutes movement of the shifter, even with difficulty.

Do we have to fight about this now too? Holy cow.

I thought my post was pretty civil. How do you get fighting out of that?

:REOutShootinghunter: :REOutShootinghunter::REOutShootinghunter: :REOutShootinghunter: :REOutShootinghunter: Its Ok, Next Time I have an idea or know for sure whats wrong with someones truck I will just keep it to myself as advocated above and further the lack of Knowledge/Brainstorming the L.R. community is known for compared to other communities. peace out

Feel free to make any more useless comments about my post you want I am done with this thread. O.P. If you want anymore info from me P.M. me I have no quarrel with you.

 

[R_Lefebvre]

I thought my post was pretty civil. How do you get fighting out of that?

Yeah, not that bad, but I could just see where this is going. It's happened so many times. Next thing you know, somebody will be posting: "How can you give advice, you don't even own a Land Rover." Not referring to you. I could just see the storm brewing.

further the lack of Knowledge/Brainstorming the L.R. community is known for compared to other communities.

+1

 

[Brian McVickers]

Thanks everyone for all the information.

To clarify further, I have posted a video of the situation on youtube:http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eG-UCTFhhMY

- The shift lever will rock back and forth approximately 1/2 inch forward and back.

- The Shift lever willnot push all the way forward to engage low range.

- This behavior is the same when stopped at idle in neutral, when stopped with low rpm in neutral rolling forward 0-5mph in neutral and rolling backward 0-5 in neutral.

The first time this happened it would not shift, I let it sit for the night and int the morning it shifted nice and smooth.

Then it was fine for a while, shifting back and forth from high to low to high ver smooth and normal.

Most recently, in moab, it would not shift, but after ten minutes of rolling back and forth and playing with different low rpms it shifted. We ran the trail and then I had the same issues shifting back in to high.

- This may be important to clarify -- When it does shift it shifts smoothly.

From what everyone has offered so far it sounds like an issue with the selenoid considering it seems to have an intermittent history however right now it wont shift at all.

There is oil in the T-case and I was able to run my hand along the cable from the shifter lever to the case and found no kinks or breaks.

If I remove the center consol to access the shifter mechanism how do I remove the knob on top of the main shift lever which will allow everything else to be removed?

Any other input is greatly appreciated!!

Thanks everyone.

Brian

 

[R_Lefebvre]

The knob requires no tools. There's a snap ring in a groove holding it on. You basically just have to pull up on it with both hands, using all your might. Takes a lot of force.

Be sure to position your head directly over the knob, so when it finally lets go, you can catch it with your face.

 

[muskyman]

from your video it does look to be a selonoid issue