2001 Tundra Suspension Input Requested

[jerstw]

Yeah, he would love to stuff 4.56's and some ARB's in the diffs but we have a decent list of repairs and maintenance to take care of already...which I will ask for input on the following which we planning to tackle other the next several weeks...

• Rack and pinion and high pressure lines - Is stuff from 1A Auto any good (asking as they have a lifetime rack warranty)?
• Lower control arms - 19 years old, bushing shot and rusted rather badly, think we will replace them...Moog ones decent? Will plan new OEM lower BJ's at the same time.
• Exhaust, all of it - JBA shorty headers or aftermarket manifolds? Also, anyone running the Banks cat back on the 4.7? Planning for OEM manifold studs and lock nuts along with the "metal gaskets".
• Rotors and pads - Any mild upgrade replacements worth doing (slotted, etc.)? Rotors are pitted and looks like they are not worth trying to turn.

 

[idriveabox]

Re: LCA, the moog are fine. It’s not a critical component t. Plan to also install oem cam bolts as your old ones are likely seized.

Havent done the rack yet but most people seem to get by with the reman racks and poly bushings.

taking care of the maintenance would be priority over lift.

 

[jerstw]

Yeah, thinking the cam bolts are going to be junk. How big of a PITA is it if that sleeve is seized up...heat it up and a punch / chisel work?

100% agree...the 'must haves' before the 'want to haves' will be the order of what gets done.

Also, anyone running the 9550 TR CVJ Axles? Wondering how good they are and if you need to cut the inner side when they arrive with the red boot or if that comes greased, cut and ready to install.

 

[idriveabox]

Typically you need to cut the cam bolts with a sawzall. Get the diablo blades. If you google it there is a good YouTube showing the job from 1stgenoffroad.

 

[clay124]

Thank you Clay for the input. Can I ask what kind of miles per gallon you’re getting on the 265’s and do you have a side profile picture you could share?


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I average 15-16 MPG. I'm on stock 16" wheels with BFG KO2s. You'll want to consider the type of tread for your MPG's. M/Ts will reduce your MPGs the most. I'll see if I can get you a pic soon.

On regearing, I plan on running 255/85/16 soon. It's a 33" skinny. I'm trying to decide what gears to run in my truck because at interstate speeds it suffers some with my current 265's and I haul a boat and trailer at times.

 

[blueranger501]

Re: Moog. Terrible experience for me. Did inner and outer TRE and the outer bolt stripped with zero effort torquing down. Absolute garbage hardware. Unless it’s the actual LCA arm that moog makes no way I would run any other components of theirs in my truck.

regarding brakes: great opportunity to upgrade to stainless lines, wheelers off-road sells a set. After 19 years of oemrubber I would want the peace mind knowing they are fresh.

Currently running drilled and slotted fronts but did them at the same time so can’t say which was the bigger difference. I would do stainless lines front and rear regardless.

You are an 01. Numerous caliper and rotor upgrades available. If you want to go big consider the gx460 swap. Pretty sure you would need 17” wheels but otherwise direct bolt on - bigger rotor and caliper. Otherwise go up to the 06 DCAB setup and you will still be better off with a 16” wheel.

 

[jerstw]

Typically you need to cut the cam bolts with a sawzall. Get the diablo blades. If you google it there is a good YouTube showing the job from 1stgenoffroad.

Great video, Diablo blades it will be. Thanks!

 

[jerstw]

blueranger501 - Thanks for the '06 DC tip...checking that out right now.

 

[smokeysevin]

Make sure you use oem cam bolts whatever you decide to do about the bushings. I slathered the sleeves and cam adjusters with red and tacky grease when I installed the new ones and am planning to pull and grease once a year or so. The aftermarket parts just fit like garbage and will ultimately cause bad tire wear because they fit sloppy in the slots.

Sean

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[jerstw]

Make sure you use oem cam bolts whatever you decide to do about the bushings. I slathered the sleeves and cam adjusters with red and tacky grease when I installed the new ones and am planning to pull and grease once a year or so. The aftermarket parts just fit like garbage and will ultimately cause bad tire wear because they fit sloppy in the slots.

Sean

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Thanks Sean, and planning to...got the parts list pretty much completed today and ordering stuff starts tomorrow (going to be in 3-4 phases as the list grew a bit).

Anyone have a preferred OEM parts source / website to buy from?


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[Mrmrswelch]

Thanks Sean, and planning to...got the parts list pretty much completed today and ordering stuff starts tomorrow (going to be in 3-4 phases as the list grew a bit).

Anyone have a preferred OEM parts source / website to buy from?


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I've had good luck with Olathe Toyota, and when you can find the OEM parts on Amazon is always a benefit. Type in the OE number right in the search bar to help narrow the search.

 

[jerstw]

Well, hate to say it but the build is not going to happen. Short version, every turn we found more and more wrong with this truck, so much so the investment to make it what we wanted plus the base level repairs needed (just in parts) was getting well beyond reasonable, so the dealer has agreed to take it back for a full refund.

Back hunting for a first gen Tundra (ideally 2005), 2001 or newer Taco or maybe a GX470. Hopefully there is a part 2 to this soon...

 

[Mrmrswelch]

Well, hate to say it but the build is not going to happen. Short version, every turn we found more and more wrong with this truck, so much so the investment to make it what we wanted plus the base level repairs needed (just in parts) was getting well beyond reasonable, so the dealer has agreed to take it back for a full refund.

Back hunting for a first gen Tundra (ideally 2005), 2001 or newer Taco or maybe a GX470. Hopefully there is a part 2 to this soon...

If you live in a salt prone area, it would be wise to look for a truck elsewhere. The first thing to consider is if the frame has been replaced. I think you are on the right track when trying to stick with a first gen Tundra, and honestly, search for a version in the later years with the larger brakes, 4.0 liter V6 and the 6 speed manual transmission. The newer Tacomas 2003 and newer have a lot of GM (Mexico) parts in them, which I have seen fail on a regular basis (blower motors and resistors, window motors, bed supports failing, etc)

 

[idriveabox]

The 05/06 first gen tundra is still a 15 year old truck. It’s going to need routine maintenance including all the things mentioned in this thread. Just the cost of driving one. A lower mileage unit might prolong it but bushings wear out with age etc. Good luck with the search.

 

[DaveInDenver]

The newer Tacomas 2003 and newer have a lot of GM (Mexico) parts in them, which I have seen fail on a regular basis (blower motors and resistors, window motors, bed supports failing, etc)

The blower motor in my 2008 NUMMI-made (Fremont, CA) looked to me to have been made by Aisin in South Korea. I don't think it's as simple as U.S.-vs-Japan anymore. The norm for a while now is that you'll find traditional GM suppliers such as Dana-Spicer and Delphi in Toyotas and Denso or Aisin-Seiki in GM cars. It's a global industry, suppliers and assembly occurs in plants all over the place. Ultimately it boils down to what the manufacturer contracts the supplier to do.