Or 1st Attack Engineering. They help with rescue rigs. If you went the super single route
Unfortunately not. I spoke to Jeff at 1st Attack yesterday in relation to another rig. While he still offers super singles for the earlier Ford 8lug, his Chevy/GMC 3500 (8lug) offerings start for 2011+ rigs. Keep in mind that the 450/4500s and 550/5500s are 10lug.
I’m not really familiar with converting from dually to super singles.
I’m guessing it is more than just bolting on a new singular wheel and tire?
Buckstop has some helpful info;
https://www.buckstopinc.com/single-wheel-conversions.html
Some further info from DBL Designs;
https://www.dbldesign.com/single-wheel-conversion (you'll notice some opinions here, which might differ from the other 2 companies listed in my reply)
Per Jeff at 1st Attack, it depends on the year/make/model. Too many variances to keep all the info straight in his head--he's made a spreadsheet with all the info. Some of his 20x11 steel super singles (they weigh 62lbs/each by the way!) are reversible, meaning that it's the same wheel front to rear, just that the rear is orientated to be dished more (higher negative offset in mm) to allow for more "push" to the outboard of the vehicle.
Sometimes the wheel orientation puts the valve stem on the inboard edge (under the truck), which makes it difficult to air up the rear tires.
Sometimes he said the wheel isn't reversible front-rear, so he'll sell a front as a spare as a "narrower" offset front wheel could still be used in the rear (just would sit inboard much further than normal), but a "wider" offset rear wheel would stick way the heck out if fitted to the front in the case of a flat tire situation.
My Tiger/Ram3500 was a dually. Front axle got Yukon manual hubs (non- dually) and rear I just directly bolted new wheel on. Wheels are 4,500lb. rated Method NV/HD, tires are Nitto Ridge Grappler F equivalent 3,900 lb. rated. The rear wheel flares are narrowed and reinstalled as they came off. Front has aftermarket bushwhackers. I drove it 12,000 as a DRW and 50,000+ miles since SRW, much prefer SRW. Mine does not have a lift and I would not want one. I recommend adding the biggest rear sway bar available.
View attachment 627110View attachment 627112
Can you also tell us why you prefer SRW vs DRW? There's been such a debate about going from DRW to SRW due to "babyhead" rocks getting stuck in between the duals and slicing the sidewalls up, etc....it'd be interesting to get your experience.
Much more robust suspension componites and level compensating air bags. Huge tires and wider track helps too
Starting with a 450/4500, or 550/5500 means burlier parts, larger brakes, is helpful for not having to worry about exceeding payload. Huge 41" tires can handle the heavier loads of rigs like a heavy Earthroamer, but those tires/wheels are also not only very costly but VERY heavy, which in general can mean increased stopping distances, poorer acceleration and handling(hence the need for even better susp), etc. Not to veer off topic from this Tiger, but here's a good perspective on the larger 38s/aluminum Hutchinson 2pc beadlocks;
https://expeditionportal.com/forum/...overland-explorer.173413/page-22#post-2701568 My son ran the Continental 285/80R20 tires to Alaska and back plus we did some driving around home. They are fantastic for slow speed and when you air them down you feel like you can go anywhere. However the [large] wheel tire combo feels like it's just to much for the truck [a 6.7L Ford with 9xx ft/lbs!]. Just to much weight, for the system. I am much happier with the 35" tires. Truck handles them better, accelerates better, STOPS much BETTER and simply performs better."
