mccustomize
Explorer
When I threw that bumper together I built it specifically with the intention of taking the body lift off, so it kind of explains the gap.
4.56 gears
4.56 gears
2003 Silverado Z71 solid axle build
- Thread starter mccustomize
- Start date
mccustomize
Explorer
Got the exhaust leak fixed, started working on the winch mount this evening and got the new wheels mounted up today, much lighter than the old steel wheels!
mccustomize
Explorer
Man I wish I would have known that, would have saved me a bunch of time. Oh well
cowboy63645
Adventurer
Looks great! Can't wait to see it with the body lift removed and the new winch added
Sent from my RM-820_nam_att_100 using Board Express
Sent from my RM-820_nam_att_100 using Board Express
mccustomize
Explorer
Probably going to be a while before I remove the bodylift, however getting everything mechanically sorted out is first priority.
I will finish my winch mount this weekend and then work on mounting a hi lift, shovel and ax to the rack inside the bed. Got a few little leaks and things to take care of but everything is running great!
I will finish my winch mount this weekend and then work on mounting a hi lift, shovel and ax to the rack inside the bed. Got a few little leaks and things to take care of but everything is running great!
wheelieking71
Member
Very cool truck. I really like how you swapped the chevy unit-bearings to the dodge knuckles. Clean, and simple! Nice job on the spring buckets, and everything looks good.
I have to say though, I cringe when I see that rod end at your pit-man arm in single-shear! Keep an eye on that bolt. It WILL break. It's not a matter of if it breaks. But, when it breaks.
I have to say though, I cringe when I see that rod end at your pit-man arm in single-shear! Keep an eye on that bolt. It WILL break. It's not a matter of if it breaks. But, when it breaks.
mccustomize
Explorer
So I guess every OEM ball joint breaks at the pitman arm as well?
Show me a dual shear pitman arm please
Show me a dual shear pitman arm please
wheelieking71
Member
LOL, I figured I would get a response like that. Tie-rod-ends are engineered to be single shear. Show me a factory single shear rod-end. And don't tell me its a cost at the OEM level. Its not. TRE's are far more expensive to manufacture than a rod-end.
That taper was in your pitman arm for a very good reason. And, please keep an eye on that bolt, so you don't kill somebody. I am not going to argue with you. But I am telling you, its not safe. (but, neither are factory chevy tie-rods on your era truck. I have a friend that can put his truck in 4x4, and bend the factory tie-rods by launching the truck from a dead stop. so, touche' I guess? LOL)
I am actually trying to help. I'm not nit-picking. I really like your truck. And I think you did one helluva job on the SAS! But honestly, spend some time on the net doing research if you have to. If for some reason you don't believe me. Or even better, post a picture over on racedesert.com of your pitman arm, and ask: "is this safe?".
(FYI, I have been building trucks for 30yrs friend. The easiest thing for you to do right here is take my word for it)
Regardless, I will say it again, NICE TRUCK!
Some advice if you are going to leave it as is:
If the bolt gets loose. Replace it. Its probably not because the nut is backing off. More likely that the bolt is stretching.
And use an all metal lock-nut rather than a split lock-washer. The lock washers can break, and fall out.
If this was the tie-rod we were talking about, and you weren't running misalignment spacers, I would have never said a word.
Its the height of the misalignment spacer, and the reduced bolt shank dia. that compromises that set-up. Not the rod-end.
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mccustomize
Explorer
How come every single long travel steering I just looked up, Camburg, mazzula, total chaos, etc... None of them are in dual sheer? The only thing I have seen dual sheer on are straight up race cars and buggies built to blast 100+ mph through the desert.
Mine is neither of those, it has also been daily driven for over a year now and that bolt has not loosened at all. Several friends with solid axle rigs as well have their pit,an setup the same way and have been that way for years now, not a single failure. I would go into talking about other sites, like race dezert, but I am talking about real face to face experience. Sorry but just because you have been doing something for 30 years doesn't mean you have been doing it the only right way, just another right way.
Mine is neither of those, it has also been daily driven for over a year now and that bolt has not loosened at all. Several friends with solid axle rigs as well have their pit,an setup the same way and have been that way for years now, not a single failure. I would go into talking about other sites, like race dezert, but I am talking about real face to face experience. Sorry but just because you have been doing something for 30 years doesn't mean you have been doing it the only right way, just another right way.
wheelieking71
Member
Like I said: I like your truck. You did a nice job on the swap. ENJOY!
98dango
Expedition Leader
As some one who also builds trucks and gets.paid for it every day. This is not a bad set up not ideal either. Yes double sheer with a rod end is always best. Now on the flip side I have daily beat a f350 on 44" boggers with this setup for 12 years now. Yes I replaced the bolt once a year usualy because I would have to replace some thing else up there and bolts where free back then.
mccustomize
Explorer
So I am working on mounting solutions inside the bed, First thing I need to do is raise my toolbox to have full length use of the bed space and finish bolting the rack down.
Items I want to permanently attach to the bed/rack are:
Short shovel
Ax
Hi-lift jack
2 full size Jerry cans
I figure everything else can be placed in and secured on an as needed basis, my current tool box already covers my tools and spare driveline parts but I still have room inside. Trying to think where to place my long items with the quickfist clamps...