Up for grabs is a very nicely built out, turn key overland rig that will take you anywhere in comfort without breaking the bank. I've been working on the pop up camper for the past 6 months with the intention of putting it on my beloved 2005 cummins. Unfortunately now that it is complete and ready to travel, I have found myself in a position were I need to stay put and work. The truck: 2005 Dodge Ram 3500 Laramie with 194k miles. This is probably one of the cleanest and nicely equipped 5.9 cummins trucks you are ever going to find. No joke, I will regret selling this truck. Its the right year, trim, and color, with all the right (very expensive!) mods. It's rust free, it's only seen salt one year but I coated the entire frame and suspension with cosmoline before hand. It's never really seen hard work or towing, its mostly just been driven on the highway across the country over and over by the previous owners. Its been immaculately maintained and upgraded. The leather interior looks almost new and the paint and body is in great shape. Its truly an awesome truck, and I have a stack of maintenance records and receipts for it the size of a phone book. There are a few things that will need attention at some point such as a couple tie rod ends with leaky boots and a very small oil leak from the pan because of the thinner winter oil in it at the moment, but nothing beyond normal maintenance. The following modifications were professionally installed by the previous owner around 150k miles.
-Thuren 2.5 custom King Shocks front rear, 2.75 tune, Thuren front springs, Thuren control arms, Thuren Rear long travel leaf springs and shackles. This supension setup is amazing. It make big bumps feel like they are not even there. You can literally drive over a curb or median at like 30mph and it just floats over it, it's hilarious.
-BD Track bar, sway bar end-links, and steering box brace.
-Synergy Steering tie rod kit with fox steering dampener.
-Dynatrac rebuildable ball joints.
-Factory Torsen LSD in rear axle.
-Pro Comp 17X9 rims with 35x12.5r17 load range D Toyo Open Country R/T tires. Full sized spare mounted under the bed included but was not installed when I took the pictures.
-Air Lift Ultimate 5000 air bags for load and camper leveling. With the empty 1100# camper it sits level with no pressure in the bags, but loaded with gear you might want a little. -AFE Cold air intake. As you can probably hear in the video, its a little loud. Its not the fault of the intake, a previous owner removed the turbo silencer ring to make it sound like that. it can easily be replaced if you want it to be a little quieter. -5” Magnaflow Turbo back exhaust with 5” Magnaflow high flow Cat. It’s a really nice sounding and reletively quiet exhaust tone that doesn’t drone on the highway.
-150 GPM FASS Fuel filter kit.
-Upgrade pressure solenoid and transducer in transmission. Deep ATS transmission Pan. Trans rebuild at 70k. I replaced the 2nd gear band and did a full trans service done about 2k miles ago.
-MagHytec rear diff cover.
-Upgrade 8.3 Mopar steering box, hydro boost, and power steering pump. The steering is extreamly tight and direct, it does not feel like a fullsize straight axle truck at all.
-Custom fabricated steel front and rear bumpers. These are one-offs built for this truck by a very good fabricator. They are super beefy, they look awesome, and the coating has held up really well. -Line X bed liner, bed rails, fender and rocker panels, and grill. Professionally sprayed, you can see in the photos how thick it is.
-New batteries this winter.
The camper:
2003 Sun Valley Apache 6.5 I started by completely gutting the camper and tossing all the old outdated appliances. I built a new, lighter, minimal galley counter top with tow drawers and tons of open storage for backpacks, bins, and gear. I also painted, installed new flooring, recovered the cushions, re-sealed the roof trim, re-bedded and sealed the lift brackets, and made a new table. The table can be mounted north/south or east/west, or mounted low to make into a bed. All of the modifications and the removal of the heavy original interior and appliances add up to a pretty good weight savings on an already very light camper. The listed dry weight is 1250# and I removed at least 100#. Its in very good shape considering its about 20 years old. No leaks or water damage beyond a little bit of staining on the canvas. A bleach pen and some scrubbing should get it out but I haven’t gotten around to it yet. The structure and lifting mechanism are very solid. There are no major dents or dings on the exterior. The screens and canvas have no rips or repairs and the clear plastic windows are not hazy and also have to rips or repairs. The camper is clean and there are no bad smells.
Camper mounting:
The camper is mounted at 4 points with chains and turnbuckles. You can the the two at the rear, and in the front of the bed and accessible through two hatches inside the camper. The jacks are removed for travel but are included. There are only 3 since one is seized up but the camper is so light that using only 3 is just fine.
Camper electrical:
I opted to go with the Ecoflow River Pro and completely delete the factory electrical system. Its light weight, feature rich, expandable, and more versatile than and permanently installed system. You can’t build a better one for less money. It plugs into a small fuse block and switch panel to power the fridge, lights, diesel heater, and water pump. There is a 100w solar panel on the roof that charges the Ecoflow. You can fast charge it from dead to full in about an hour and a half while driving using the inverter installed under the driver seat in the truck. Its enough power to get through about a full day using the fridge, lights, etc. If you think you will be parked for more than a day without running the engine, you can double the battery capacity with Ecoflow’s auxiliary battery that just plugs into the side of it, and/or add another 100w panel.
Heat:
I deleted the propane system and heat now comes from a diesel heater. I’ve installed one in my last RV build and it worked incredibly well. Its way smaller and lighter than the original propane furnace, it used less electricity, its quieter, it puts out more heat, and it uses a fuel the you already have to carry a lot of (diesel). It draws from a 5 gallon Jerry can mounted on the left rear of the camper.
Refrigeration:
I removed the old 3way fridge and replaced it with a more efficient Whynter 62qt 12v dual zone compressor fridge freezer. Its mounted centrally on the floor along with the water tank to keep the center of gravity in check because they are the heaviest items in the build.
Sink:
Pretty straight forward, there is a switch on the panel to turn on a 12v pump which draws water from a 7 gallon tank mounted next to the fridge. There is no gray water storage, the sink just drains onto the ground or you can put out a bucket.
As you can see, a lot of time and money went into building this rig. I'm sure there are plenty of details that I am forgetting, so don't hesitate message me with any questions. I may consider PARTIAL trades for other overland vehicles/car/bikes. Thanks for looking and have a great day!
I am willing to separate: Truck 26k, Camper 7k
Dylan 612 414 2723
Here is a link to a video test drive and walk around:
And about 200 more photos: https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1AC-WYyhkzeW-kWDzqbNvw-iGUdofP91z?usp=sharing
-Thuren 2.5 custom King Shocks front rear, 2.75 tune, Thuren front springs, Thuren control arms, Thuren Rear long travel leaf springs and shackles. This supension setup is amazing. It make big bumps feel like they are not even there. You can literally drive over a curb or median at like 30mph and it just floats over it, it's hilarious.
-BD Track bar, sway bar end-links, and steering box brace.
-Synergy Steering tie rod kit with fox steering dampener.
-Dynatrac rebuildable ball joints.
-Factory Torsen LSD in rear axle.
-Pro Comp 17X9 rims with 35x12.5r17 load range D Toyo Open Country R/T tires. Full sized spare mounted under the bed included but was not installed when I took the pictures.
-Air Lift Ultimate 5000 air bags for load and camper leveling. With the empty 1100# camper it sits level with no pressure in the bags, but loaded with gear you might want a little. -AFE Cold air intake. As you can probably hear in the video, its a little loud. Its not the fault of the intake, a previous owner removed the turbo silencer ring to make it sound like that. it can easily be replaced if you want it to be a little quieter. -5” Magnaflow Turbo back exhaust with 5” Magnaflow high flow Cat. It’s a really nice sounding and reletively quiet exhaust tone that doesn’t drone on the highway.
-150 GPM FASS Fuel filter kit.
-Upgrade pressure solenoid and transducer in transmission. Deep ATS transmission Pan. Trans rebuild at 70k. I replaced the 2nd gear band and did a full trans service done about 2k miles ago.
-MagHytec rear diff cover.
-Upgrade 8.3 Mopar steering box, hydro boost, and power steering pump. The steering is extreamly tight and direct, it does not feel like a fullsize straight axle truck at all.
-Custom fabricated steel front and rear bumpers. These are one-offs built for this truck by a very good fabricator. They are super beefy, they look awesome, and the coating has held up really well. -Line X bed liner, bed rails, fender and rocker panels, and grill. Professionally sprayed, you can see in the photos how thick it is.
-New batteries this winter.
The camper:
2003 Sun Valley Apache 6.5 I started by completely gutting the camper and tossing all the old outdated appliances. I built a new, lighter, minimal galley counter top with tow drawers and tons of open storage for backpacks, bins, and gear. I also painted, installed new flooring, recovered the cushions, re-sealed the roof trim, re-bedded and sealed the lift brackets, and made a new table. The table can be mounted north/south or east/west, or mounted low to make into a bed. All of the modifications and the removal of the heavy original interior and appliances add up to a pretty good weight savings on an already very light camper. The listed dry weight is 1250# and I removed at least 100#. Its in very good shape considering its about 20 years old. No leaks or water damage beyond a little bit of staining on the canvas. A bleach pen and some scrubbing should get it out but I haven’t gotten around to it yet. The structure and lifting mechanism are very solid. There are no major dents or dings on the exterior. The screens and canvas have no rips or repairs and the clear plastic windows are not hazy and also have to rips or repairs. The camper is clean and there are no bad smells.
Camper mounting:
The camper is mounted at 4 points with chains and turnbuckles. You can the the two at the rear, and in the front of the bed and accessible through two hatches inside the camper. The jacks are removed for travel but are included. There are only 3 since one is seized up but the camper is so light that using only 3 is just fine.
Camper electrical:
I opted to go with the Ecoflow River Pro and completely delete the factory electrical system. Its light weight, feature rich, expandable, and more versatile than and permanently installed system. You can’t build a better one for less money. It plugs into a small fuse block and switch panel to power the fridge, lights, diesel heater, and water pump. There is a 100w solar panel on the roof that charges the Ecoflow. You can fast charge it from dead to full in about an hour and a half while driving using the inverter installed under the driver seat in the truck. Its enough power to get through about a full day using the fridge, lights, etc. If you think you will be parked for more than a day without running the engine, you can double the battery capacity with Ecoflow’s auxiliary battery that just plugs into the side of it, and/or add another 100w panel.
Heat:
I deleted the propane system and heat now comes from a diesel heater. I’ve installed one in my last RV build and it worked incredibly well. Its way smaller and lighter than the original propane furnace, it used less electricity, its quieter, it puts out more heat, and it uses a fuel the you already have to carry a lot of (diesel). It draws from a 5 gallon Jerry can mounted on the left rear of the camper.
Refrigeration:
I removed the old 3way fridge and replaced it with a more efficient Whynter 62qt 12v dual zone compressor fridge freezer. Its mounted centrally on the floor along with the water tank to keep the center of gravity in check because they are the heaviest items in the build.
Sink:
Pretty straight forward, there is a switch on the panel to turn on a 12v pump which draws water from a 7 gallon tank mounted next to the fridge. There is no gray water storage, the sink just drains onto the ground or you can put out a bucket.
As you can see, a lot of time and money went into building this rig. I'm sure there are plenty of details that I am forgetting, so don't hesitate message me with any questions. I may consider PARTIAL trades for other overland vehicles/car/bikes. Thanks for looking and have a great day!
I am willing to separate: Truck 26k, Camper 7k
Dylan 612 414 2723
Here is a link to a video test drive and walk around:
And about 200 more photos: https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1AC-WYyhkzeW-kWDzqbNvw-iGUdofP91z?usp=sharing
