2005 FORD F350 Crew Cab SB 6.8 V10 4x4

[Ninelitetrip]

Currently looking at a 2005 FORD F350 Crew Cab SB 6.8 V10 4x4 as a platform for a flatbed pop up camper. Currently stock condition as it came from the factory. I am looking for any experiences with the 2005 and beyond 6.8 V10 and also with the truck itself as a platform and what changes or enhancements were done. Mostly paved roads, but certainly a lot of graded dirt, gravel, and forest roads. Capable of stretching a bit off road, but not a pathfinder. Some lift, 37 inch tires at most.


Thanks.



Engine Displacement L/CI 6.8 / 415 Horsepower 362 @ 4750 Fuel Economy 13 MPG Fuel Capacity 29.0 / 38.0 gal Net Torque 457 @ 3250

Front Tire Size LT275/70R18E Rear Tire Size LT275/70R18E

GVWR 11,000

Rear 4.10 LS

 

[CodyY]

2008 with the 3valve 6.8
Carli 2.5 pintop
Deaver add a pack
Kings with resi
5star tune
5.13 w/arb
37s

8mpg mixed, 11 the best I ever got. BUT you can buy a lotta fuel for the cost to upgrade to a 6.7 diesel. I don't put on much mileage so it's not worth the money for me. If I start towing a lot for the business, I'll get a medium duty as a dedicated tow rig.
All on all, I love it. May go crazy and swap in a 24v Cummins one day. Probably wouldn't run 5.13 unless you plan to tow heavy, but it was regeared already when I got it (on this board).
I will be swapping out the MTs for for AT tires and getting the carli 4.5 full leafs, it rides pretty harsh, and the 2.5" coils are only for a diesel so its nose high.

Oh, CCSB has a 26 ish gallon tank. So you stop pretty regularly, put in an aux transfer tank if you have room.

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

 

[Halligan]

I had an 08' F-350 with a V-10 for a few years. Great engine except for the poor spark plug design in the early 3v modular motors. Not a bid deal but don't plan on doing the plug's yourself if it needs them as a special tool is required to extract the broken off pieces. Don't let that scare you though as most repair shops can handle it no problem.

Other than that I'll second Cody with some Carli suspension upgrades. You'll be shocked at how the truck will ride, handle and perform over stock.

 

[Ninelitetrip]

CodyY, Thanks for the reply.

I have watched a few of the CJC Off Road YT videos. The Carli setup looks great. I guess I would fall somewhere in between the Backcountry and the Dominator. The pictures of the Goose Gear F350 setup in action looks fantastic, but is more than I think I want to pay for. Whenever I get the the truck/flatbed/camper built I would likely head out to CJC and Deaver so that I'm working with the actual true weight. What weight are you looking to achieve with the Deaver's? If starting from scratch would you stick with the 2.5 or go with the 4.5?

Which tune on the 5 Star do you have? Any monitor display setup for that? I would like to make sure cooling is taken care off, engine, transmission, replace the exhaust when it's toast. Nothing much beyond that. The Banks rear differential cover should be available this summer, so maybe that.

I'm fine with the 4.10 LS. No plans to tow. Maybe an occasional light utility trailer for around town, but that's all. No race trailers or 5th wheels. I may add something off the back bumper to carry say a TW200, that's about it. So I'm guessing around 13 MPG on average for highway driving. Not meant to be a daily driver, so I will take the reduced MPG over say diesel. May add a locker, happy with the ARB? By the way, nice V notch trailer.

Tires and Fuel. I am leaning towards 18's and either 35's or max 37's. My guess is I will lose use of the storage for the spare, either from the build, or trying to fit a 37 in there. I plan on removing the rear bench seat and adding storage, maybe the spare goes there. Have not looked at Aux tanks for a 2005 yet. Maybe another reason for losing the spare tire space, but I will plan for it.

I saw where you wanted to change your wheels. Is that just for looks? How are the ones you have now?

I like that center console. Very close to what I would like to do.

If you ever find yourself in northern New Hampshire maybe stop in and visit Team O'Neil, nice setup they have.

 

[Ninelitetrip]

Thanks for the reply Halligan. Good friend has had several V10's, both early and later production. Several F250's, an Excursion, and a couple of RV's. Always happy with them.
He had an early V10. Decided to change the plugs @ 100K. Spit one out when he was towing a 28 foot RV. Learned his lesson, never changed a plug again.

Carli suspension is on the go list.

 

[Ninelitetrip]

Wheels. So many choices. I want to maintain the payload capacity. The method 305 NV HD fit the bill, up to 4500 lbs. load rating. Also I guess the Street-Loc V.1 lip with undercut might be useful when airing down. The fake beadlock look is a little busy. I have always liked the smoothie's and dog dishes, rallyes with rectangular cuts. Maybe a set of Stockton, or something like the Wheel Vintiques that were on the Jeep Gladiator Wayout concept. Even the Fifteen52 Traverse HD Bronze.

 

[Buddha.]

I’ve been thinking about trading my Chevy 2500 6.0(L96) for a v10 super duty.
80 ft/lbs more at 1,000 rpms less.
I hate towing my big trailer into a 25mph headwind and the Chevy is at 4000 rpms to maintain 55mph. I did that six hours straight once.

 

[glock7018]

I am guy that built that truck that CodyY now has. If you can, try to find a long bed so you get the 38 gallon tank. The 26 gallon tank just did not cut it for me. I ended up installing a 60 gallon L shape transfer tank and T ing into the filler neck with a small fuel pump so I could fill the main tank as I was driving. Problem is that took up a bunch of room in the bed, and it made me nervous because I didn't install an inertia switch in case of an accident. The idea of rolling the truck and having the pump keeping pumping fuel wherever didn't sit well with me. Which is why I took the whole system out when I sold the truck. The do make a AUX tank that goes in the spare tire area. But you would still need an inertia switch, and a new place for a full size spare.

I would highly suggest going 17" wheels. Especially if you only plan on only running 35's. Sidewall flex is huge when it comes to ride on rough dirt roads. You may run into issues with stick on wheel weights hitting the caliber. You can either run the weights on the outside of the rim, or run centramatics to get rid of the wheel weights.

If you do plan on getting a Carli kit, I would suggest calling them before hand. Let them know you are running a V10. The V10 is about 600lbs less in weight compared to the diesel. So a off the shelf kit will have shocks valved for a diesel. This will make it ride a little rougher than it should. They can change the valving for you to help you out.

Plan on Re-gearing if you go with bigger tires. Even with 35's and 4.10 gears, the truck felt a little under powered in the hills with no load. Some people may disagree with me but 4.88's is what I would run with 35's. That would make the truck feel like stock size tires and 4.30 gears which was an option back then. This would help with the added weight and wind resistance of the camper. You are going to get terrible fuel economy either way, so you might as well have power with it.

Another thing I did to that truck That was worth the money was the adjustable radius arms. These trucks suffer from poor caster from the factory which results in lack luster steering feel. When you lift the truck, the caster angle gets worse. They offer cams to add more caster, but they can only do so much. Adding these arms allow you fine tune your caster, which should be at 4.5* to 5*.

Let me know if you have any more questions about these trucks.

 

[McCarthy]

Great platform. The V10's are bulletproof, if a bit... a lot... fuel hungry. Such a good base for a flat bed build. I'd leave the 4.10's and throw some 35's on. People always jump to having to run 37's or 40's, but other than looking cool, 90+% of the time they're a hindrance.

 

[RPhil]

The V10 is thirsty but extremely reliable. Just torque the spark plugs properly and you shouldn't have an issue. Worst case scenario is a timesert to fix it. Otherwise the coil packs can go bad, but they are very easy to change. If you spit a plug, just unplug the injector and you will be able to drive out of wherever you are.

Exhaust manifold studs tend to rust off as well, but not a huge deal to have them replaced.

You are doing the right thing in looking at 2005+ trucks. I am in the middle of swapping my front axle for an '05 to get the radius arm style suspension.

I have 4.30's and ~34's and the truck feels fine. If you're going 37+ then I would regear. I'm planning on 40's and a Cummins on the 4.30's (not because the V10 isn't great, because I think it will be a fun project). Carli 2.5 or 4.5 and the biggest shocks that are in your budget and send it.

Good luck!

 

[Ninelitetrip]

I am guy that built that truck that CodyY now has. If you can, try to find a long bed so you get the 38 gallon tank. The 26 gallon tank just did not cut it for me. I ended up installing a 60 gallon L shape transfer tank and T ing into the filler neck with a small fuel pump so I could fill the main tank as I was driving. Problem is that took up a bunch of room in the bed, and it made me nervous because I didn't install an inertia switch in case of an accident. The idea of rolling the truck and having the pump keeping pumping fuel wherever didn't sit well with me. Which is why I took the whole system out when I sold the truck. The do make a AUX tank that goes in the spare tire area. But you would still need an inertia switch, and a new place for a full size spare.

I would highly suggest going 17" wheels. Especially if you only plan on only running 35's. Sidewall flex is huge when it comes to ride on rough dirt roads. You may run into issues with stick on wheel weights hitting the caliber. You can either run the weights on the outside of the rim, or run centramatics to get rid of the wheel weights.

If you do plan on getting a Carli kit, I would suggest calling them before hand. Let them know you are running a V10. The V10 is about 600lbs less in weight compared to the diesel. So a off the shelf kit will have shocks valved for a diesel. This will make it ride a little rougher than it should. They can change the valving for you to help you out.

Plan on Re-gearing if you go with bigger tires. Even with 35's and 4.10 gears, the truck felt a little under powered in the hills with no load. Some people may disagree with me but 4.88's is what I would run with 35's. That would make the truck feel like stock size tires and 4.30 gears which was an option back then. This would help with the added weight and wind resistance of the camper. You are going to get terrible fuel economy either way, so you might as well have power with it.

Another thing I did to that truck That was worth the money was the adjustable radius arms. These trucks suffer from poor caster from the factory which results in lack luster steering feel. When you lift the truck, the caster angle gets worse. They offer cams to add more caster, but they can only do so much. Adding these arms allow you fine tune your caster, which should be at 4.5* to 5*.

Let me know if you have any more questions about these trucks.

glock7018, thanks for the reply. I looked at the description you posted when it went up for sale, definitely a nice setup.

Fuel. I agree there is a need for more capacity. The short bed that I'm looking at presents as a good opportunity, and I don't think I need a long bed. The Titan tank is @ $1500. However it is done, it needs to work correctly and not be a hazard.

17's are definitely a consideration for exactly the reason you mentioned, and I already planned on going with the centramatics if feasible.

On the Carli suspension, my plan would be to take the truck to them with the camper installed and then build from there.

On the regear to 4.88 have to see where I end up on final build. It has the 4.10 with LS, I think I would want at least a rear locker also. Who did you go with on the 4.88's?

Can you tell me more on that center console?

 

[Ninelitetrip]

The V10 is thirsty but extremely reliable. Just torque the spark plugs properly and you shouldn't have an issue. Worst case scenario is a timesert to fix it. Otherwise the coil packs can go bad, but they are very easy to change. If you spit a plug, just unplug the injector and you will be able to drive out of wherever you are.

Exhaust manifold studs tend to rust off as well, but not a huge deal to have them replaced.

You are doing the right thing in looking at 2005+ trucks. I am in the middle of swapping my front axle for an '05 to get the radius arm style suspension.

I have 4.30's and ~34's and the truck feels fine. If you're going 37+ then I would regear. I'm planning on 40's and a Cummins on the 4.30's (not because the V10 isn't great, because I think it will be a fun project). Carli 2.5 or 4.5 and the biggest shocks that are in your budget and send it.

Good luck!

Besides having the plug blowout after he changed all the plugs my friend mentioned he had to change a few coil packs. I think he may have been buying cheap and not OEM. Other than those two issues, that is all he has had across at least 4 V10's and a V8?

Likely 35's, not more than 37's. The magic will be with the Carli suspension for sure.

 

[glock7018]

glock7018, thanks for the reply. I looked at the description you posted when it went up for sale, definitely a nice setup.

Fuel. I agree there is a need for more capacity. The short bed that I'm looking at presents as a good opportunity, and I don't think I need a long bed. The Titan tank is @ $1500. However it is done, it needs to work correctly and not be a hazard.

17's are definitely a consideration for exactly the reason you mentioned, and I already planned on going with the centramatics if feasible.

On the Carli suspension, my plan would be to take the truck to them with the camper installed and then build from there.

On the regear to 4.88 have to see where I end up on final build. It has the 4.10 with LS, I think I would want at least a rear locker also. Who did you go with on the 4.88's?

Can you tell me more on that center console?

Keep in mind there are no larger aftermarkets tanks that are compatible with gas trucks. I think there are some DOT regulations that prevent them from being made. Which is why I had to make a homemade set up.

This is the only tank that I could find that would work besides a in bed fuel tank.

1999-2016 Ford F-250/350 Rear Fuel Cell-PMF-FRD-SDRCELL

www.pmfsuspension.com

With that set up you would just need a fuel pump and T it into your filler neck, and the recommended inertia switch.

I went with 5.13's when I did 37's. I think I went with nitro gear. They were the only ones making 5.13 gears for a super duty at the time.

The console is made by these guys.

2009-2016 FORD SUPERDUTY

These consoles are available for purchase and are constructed and built to fit the same way the Chevy Tahoe consoles are. These consoles are available with or without a four wheel drive floor shifter. Please call to order 281-469-3451. Standard faceplate without floor shifter: Long faceplate...

www.pptexas.com

They do fantastic work. Though since your truck is so old they probably wont have the correct mounting brackets. I know they didnt have them for my 08 body style so I had to make the 11-16 brackets work.

Since your's is a 05 body style they could make something work by just squaring off the front of the console since the dash is pretty flat in that area.

 

[Ninelitetrip]

Keep in mind there are no larger aftermarkets tanks that are compatible with gas trucks. I think there are some DOT regulations that prevent them from being made. Which is why I had to make a homemade set up.

This is the only tank that I could find that would work besides a in bed fuel tank.

1999-2016 Ford F-250/350 Rear Fuel Cell-PMF-FRD-SDRCELL

www.pmfsuspension.com

With that set up you would just need a fuel pump and T it into your filler neck, and the recommended inertia switch.

I went with 5.13's when I did 37's. I think I went with nitro gear. They were the only ones making 5.13 gears for a super duty at the time.

The console is made by these guys.

2009-2016 FORD SUPERDUTY

These consoles are available for purchase and are constructed and built to fit the same way the Chevy Tahoe consoles are. These consoles are available with or without a four wheel drive floor shifter. Please call to order 281-469-3451. Standard faceplate without floor shifter: Long faceplate...

www.pptexas.com

They do fantastic work. Though since your truck is so old they probably wont have the correct mounting brackets. I know they didnt have them for my 08 body style so I had to make the 11-16 brackets work.

Since your's is a 05 body style they could make something work by just squaring off the front of the console since the dash is pretty flat in that area.

Well getting additional fuel capacity for a gas engine certainly looks to be a chore. As this would be a flatbed the tank needs to go below. The Titan tank would be perfect, 51 gallons, but listed for diesel only. I would guess
that the connections and opening for the fuel pump are different sizes than for the gas engine? It would be great if this tank could be repurposed.

Was the 5.13 to maintain towing capacity?

Thanks for the link on the console. interesting that they use HDPE. I will keep them in mind.

 

[Ninelitetrip]

While I go and search, does anyone know what the difference in length of the frame is on the 2005 short bed vs the long bed?