2005 Tundra novice build - "The Rez"
- Thread starter Kpack
- Start date
Kpack
Adventurer
0mm offset, 4.5" backspacing, 16" wheel. Tires are 285/75-16. I do get rubbing on the frame at full lock on occasion. Not enough to bother me at all, and hasn't been an issue on the trails.
I love the look of the F5's on this truck. So clean and classic without all the bling.
abiker
Member
I'm thinking about jumping straight to the Overland packs - do you know much about them? I haven't seen any builds with them yet and they are pricey compared to the AALs.
Kpack
Adventurer
Check page 21 on this thread. I don't know much about them, but there's a guy who posted his truck with the AG Overland springs w/ unloaded bed. I know a few other trucks that have them, but they are running with constant weight on the rear (swingout bumpers, canopy's, etc).
I'm considering the Overland springs, but I usually don't have much weight in the bed. I don't see myself getting a canopy or a rack. At the most I will probably add a swing out bumper, and maybe a short toolbox behind the cab. I need to keep the bed open.
Kpack
Adventurer
Not that I remember, but that was a while ago. If it was there back then, it is definitely worse now. The popping and clunks going over bumps is fairly constant now. I'm leaning towards the spring packs.
BattleCat
New member
Apologies it took me so long to get back to you. After my shake down of the archive garage overland leaf pack while hunting the springs definitely felt really good with a little bit of weight of a pop-up camper I was Towing. That being said I think they are best when running with a heavier load on them. You can feel it wants too jump around a bit when empty.
I'm looking forward to my habitat install early January so I can have a constant 340 additional pounds in the rear.
I took a measurement from Center of the wheel to the bottom of the fender and it's pretty well settled out at 25".
I didn't go kings in the front I actually went Fox. I'm liking them so far, but they need some more offroad use to really get a feel.
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Kpack
Adventurer
Good info on the AG overland pack. I'm sure weight is the key with them. Heck, even with my stock springs on blocks I run with weight in the back to smooth out the ride. Now I've got 240 lbs in tube sand back there in preparation for winter driving and the rear is much more compliant now.
WaTrout88
New member
The bumper looks great, I can't wait to get one for my 02 AC. Do you live in EBurg? We are headed there for Winterhop Brewfest Jan 19 and would love to meet up.Do you have a diagram or pictures of how you relocated the box? lhanson mounted his on the passenger side of the engine bay. Is that the common consensus? Right now I just have the winch mounted inside the bumper but no wiring to it and no control box. Thankfully Billy's bumper is well-designed and the winch can be fairly easily accessed even though it is already mounted.
Picked up the bumper from the powder coater yesterday. Cost $125, which I though was reasonable. I went with black 20% gloss.
Beginning to take the bumper off. It's pretty straightfoward. There are three clips on top, a row of ~8 clips underneath, 3 screws on either side under the fog lights, and one screw on either side in the wheel well. Disconnect the fog lights and the whole thing slides right off.
Stock bumper off. To install the BruteForce Fab bumper the large bar on the front will need to be completely removed. The studs that hold his bar on is what the new bumper mounts to. Save the flange nuts to use again. Behind the large bar is another small bar that the skid plate screws into. This has to be removed, save the two bolts. Also remove the small bar that goes across below the headlights. Lastly, remove the plastic retention clips on either side under the turn signals.
I used an angle grinder with a wire wheel and cleaned up the exposed parts of the frame, then painted with Rustoleum primer. I'll follow up with paint a bit later.
Anyone have any idea what this part is for? It came with the bumper and I had it powdercoated but I have no clue where it goes.
Bumper on. I had a couple neighbors lift it up while I lined up the studs and got the nuts started. I found out that in order to reuse the original bolt on either side that used to hold the skid plate attachment bar, it is helpful to use a floor jack and carefully lift/drop the bumper until the hole lines up perfectly. Get that bolt in and tight, then tighten up the nuts on the studs.
These brackets go on the side. It looks like Billy forgot to include the nuts for the bolts that go on the front two holes, but no big deal. I'll pick up some tomorrow. The other two bolts are included with the bumper. I had to use an impact gun to open the threads on the frame from rust and debris. After that the bolts when right in.
Not quite done yet, but here's where I'm at now. Love the additional clearance and the look. BTW, the bumper fit PERFECTLY. It was amazing how well it lined up with everything, including the remaining body panels. This bumper is worth every penby.
-Kevin
Kpack
Adventurer
PM coming.
Those are my thoughts also. I can't see any visible signs of failure on the leaf spring bushings, but it certainly feels like there is some play there while driving. Lots of noise coming from the rear suspension also....pops and clunks going over bumps and with lateral force applied.
I haven't gotten up the courage to swap out my leaf springs yet. I have a feeling that I'll end up cutting bolts off left and right. I had to do that with the front suspension, and the shop did it with all four cam bolts. Not looking forward to the process.
The truck is in getting road force balanced right now. Amazingly I found a Dodge/Jeep dealership just a mile away that has a Hunter GSP9700 road force machine. Tundra guys swear that this is the machine to use for Toyota's, so I figured what the heck, I'll give it a shot. They ran the numbers and both front wheel/tire combos were fine, both rears were out by a good amount....19 and 20 lbs off. They are remounting the rear tires and will re-balance. We'll see what difference that makes.
Kpack
Adventurer
I've driven the truck several hundred miles since the road force and I can say with some confidence now that it did help.
Both the rear tires were showing around 20 lbs on the road force, which apparently is just under a failing reading (tire would be out of round). They clocked the tires based on what the Hunter machine told them and the numbers were much lower....though I don't have the exact numbers in front of me.
The truck is much smoother, especially at freeway speeds now. There is still some suspension work that has to be done, both on the front and the back. The rear jiggles when it hits bumps and the front is very harsh. That's next on the list.
Both the rear tires were showing around 20 lbs on the road force, which apparently is just under a failing reading (tire would be out of round). They clocked the tires based on what the Hunter machine told them and the numbers were much lower....though I don't have the exact numbers in front of me.
The truck is much smoother, especially at freeway speeds now. There is still some suspension work that has to be done, both on the front and the back. The rear jiggles when it hits bumps and the front is very harsh. That's next on the list.
Kpack
Adventurer
I finally got around to getting a 5th SCS wheel and having my full-size spare mounted to it. I haven't tried to fit it underneath yet, but long term plans are for a new rear bumper with swing-out, so I'll probably just leave it in the bed for now. I'll lock it up with a cable lock to deter thievery. Notice the extra sand bags in the bed....winter is here and I like some weight in the back to keep my truck on the road. 240lbs total right now...I'm not sure I need more or not.
jeffjeeptj
Adventurer
Get the tires balanced at a shop that has a Hunter Road Force balancer. Hunter’s website list shops that have these machines. Make sure you tell the shop uou want a Road Force balance and want the report that shows the final numbers. This is a fantastic machine. I doubt Costco has one. The shop also needs to assign the guy who knows how to make the machine “sing”. Also, allow the shop to put weights on both sides of the rims.