2005 Tundra novice build - "The Rez"

[bkg]

One thing to consider when lubricating the uniballs is that most lubricants will attract dust and grime, and potentially increase wear.

I wonder if motorcycle chain lubricants that “aren’t supposed to” attract dust might be a solution?

I ended up replacing the balls and bushings in my total chaos arms and they have been pretty quiet for about 4K miles now. But IMHO, one shouldn’t have to replace them every 20-30k...

 

[Kpack]

Are you getting squeaking from the bushings or the uniball?

Sean

Not exactly sure. I haven't been able to find time to have someone else bounce the truck so I can listen. And it rained today so they are nice and quiet from the moisture.

One thing to consider when lubricating the uniballs is that most lubricants will attract dust and grime, and potentially increase wear.

I wonder if motorcycle chain lubricants that “aren’t supposed to” attract dust might be a solution?

I ended up replacing the balls and bushings in my total chaos arms and they have been pretty quiet for about 4K miles now. But IMHO, one shouldn’t have to replace them every 20-30k...

Totally agree. Mine only have 15K and I don't punish them nearly as much as I want. I only got a few trail runs in last year. The do take a beating during the winter though. They salt like crazy up here, or ice melt....whatever they use it corrodes things pretty bad. I try to keep them clean but when it's below zero and the tires and wheel wells are covered in ice and black sludge it's kind of hard to get in there.

The lubricant issue is why they recommended Tri Flow. I think I'm supposed to be wiping off the excess a day or so after but I have not been good at doing that.

 

[KTempleton]

I've got almost your exact set up, down to the king 700 coils but mine are on the Donahoe Racing (now Icon). I shoot mine with Tri-Flow in the spray can whenever I think about it. Maybe once every few months. If I have the power washer out for anything I'll hit the uniballs and re-lube. They've only made noise once or twice and I know I'm probably due for new uniballs.

 

[Kpack]

Changes coming soon....

Got a special package yesterday from Brute Force Fab after a long wait and I couldn't be more excited.

High-clearance rear with single swing-out, dual can holder, and fold-down table.

It arrived well-packaged neatly on a pallet. It is heavy! It definitely softened up the ride on the rear while I had it in the back of the truck. Maybe I can finally get rid of my sandbags now. Some extra weight in the back was the only way I could keep the stiff rear end from bouncing the rest of the truck.

Just like the front bumper I have from Brute Force, the rear looks to be made with excellent craftsmanship. I'm no welder, but from the little I know of welds these look pretty darn good.

It's getting sandblasted and powder coated over the next couple weeks, then it's off to install. I'm open for any tips from people who have done this before! I'm not sure how to assemble the bearings and spindle, and am a bit nervous about cutting the bedsides correctly.

 

[Sparkler]

This has been a very informative thread. I have a 2006 Tundra that I have been working on for a couple of years and launched the whole rear end in Moab a few weeks back. Rear lift blocks walked forward and end result was mas damage. It is all but fixed and waiting on new drive shaft. Icon 2.5 all around and real happy with that.

 

[Kpack]

This has been a very informative thread. I have a 2006 Tundra that I have been working on for a couple of years and launched the whole rear end in Moab a few weeks back. Rear lift blocks walked forward and end result was mas damage. It is all but fixed and waiting on new drive shaft. Icon 2.5 all around and real happy with that.View attachment 519492View attachment 519495

Nice truck! Did you do any cutting up front to fit 35's? At some point I'd love to do 35's but I'm not sure I want to deal with all that comes with it (cutting and regear).

 

[Sparkler]

Nice truck! Did you do any cutting up front to fit 35's? At some point I'd love to do 35's but I'm not sure I want to deal with all that comes with it (cutting and regear).

Only a very minor bit of cutting. Need to do a bit more and once it is back with the new drive shaft I will take pictures of front wheel wells.

 

[BattleCat]

Changes coming soon....

Got a special package yesterday from Brute Force Fab after a long wait and I couldn't be more excited.

High-clearance rear with single swing-out, dual can holder, and fold-down table.

It arrived well-packaged neatly on a pallet. It is heavy! It definitely softened up the ride on the rear while I had it in the back of the truck. Maybe I can finally get rid of my sandbags now. Some extra weight in the back was the only way I could keep the stiff rear end from bouncing the rest of the truck.

Just like the front bumper I have from Brute Force, the rear looks to be made with excellent craftsmanship. I'm no welder, but from the little I know of welds these look pretty darn good.

It's getting sandblasted and powder coated over the next couple weeks, then it's off to install. I'm open for any tips from people who have done this before! I'm not sure how to assemble the bearings and spindle, and am a bit nervous about cutting the bedsides correctly.

Dude, super excited for you. I just installed mine this last weekend. It is a bit intense cutting up the rear, but went pretty smooth.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

 

[Kpack]

Dude, super excited for you. I just installed mine this last weekend. It is a bit intense cutting up the rear, but went pretty smooth.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

You beat me to it! I'm loving the look on your truck. I went with single swing-out on mine, but I really like the duals. What did you use to paint yours? And how did you end up measuring for the cut? Billy send me some pics of an install and it looks like the cut is a bit more that 21" from the top rail. Your's looks nice and clean.

 

[BattleCat]

You beat me to it! I'm loving the look on your truck. I went with single swing-out on mine, but I really like the duals. What did you use to paint yours? And how did you end up measuring for the cut? Billy send me some pics of an install and it looks like the cut is a bit more that 21" from the top rail. Your's looks nice and clean.

I debated single vs dual for a while. I don't think there is a wrong answer. I went 21 3/8" from the level top of the bed rail caps. I feel like it left a fairly substantial gap at that measurement and I could have cut less, but at least it is never going to come in contact with the body if slammed down on rocks. Don't get me wrong it actually looks great finished with black paint down the edge and blacking out a few hanging structural peices behind it, but when I first test fit it and stood back I was like damn, did we cut to much!? I also have an edge trim I purchased that I'm going to feed on the cut fender once the paint is cured.

The pictures Billy sent me didn't show to do it, but I ended up cutting about 3/4" off the bottom of the rear inner fender slivers you leave behind otherwise it came in contact with the inner bottom of the bumper during test fitment. There is a natural end to a seam there you'll notice if you choose to do that as well. Pcture attached

I sprayed raptor liner on with an hvlp paint gun, but if I had to do it again I'd definitely spend the cash and powder coat it. I'm very happy with how they came out, but it was a ton of work and there are a lot of nooks and crannies to prep, clean and coat.

If you need more photos or have other questions let me know bud. I'm about to mount my front BFF bumper next!

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

 

[Kpack]

Thanks for the tips. I think I know where you're talking about with the rear fender liner....I'll check when I test fit. I might start by cutting a bit lower than what you did then trim up if I need to. I'm not entirely confident my bed is straight so I want to err on the side of caution.

I was also considering getting some of that edge trim to protect the edges after I touch up the paint. Not sure if that is going to help or not.

The front bumper is a piece of cake. If I can do it, anyone can. Just disassemble literally everything that is part of the stock bumper. The BFF bumper fits perfectly into place. Use a floor jack to help make fine adjustments in order to get all the front holes lined up. After it's on cut off the front of the wheel liners. I left the one on the passenger side a bit low to cover the windshield washer reservoir. You'll see what I mean when you get there. I also just used a zip tie to tie up the factory power steering cooler so it wasn't bouncing on the inside of the bumper.

 

[Kpack]

I debated single vs dual for a while. I don't think there is a wrong answer. I went 21 3/8" from the level top of the bed rail caps. I feel like it left a fairly substantial gap at that measurement and I could have cut less, but at least it is never going to come in contact with the body if slammed down on rocks. Don't get me wrong it actually looks great finished with black paint down the edge and blacking out a few hanging structural peices behind it, but when I first test fit it and stood back I was like damn, did we cut to much!? I also have an edge trim I purchased that I'm going to feed on the cut fender once the paint is cured.

The pictures Billy sent me didn't show to do it, but I ended up cutting about 3/4" off the bottom of the rear inner fender slivers you leave behind otherwise it came in contact with the inner bottom of the bumper during test fitment. There is a natural end to a seam there you'll notice if you choose to do that as well. Pcture attached

I sprayed raptor liner on with an hvlp paint gun, but if I had to do it again I'd definitely spend the cash and powder coat it. I'm very happy with how they came out, but it was a ton of work and there are a lot of nooks and crannies to prep, clean and coat.

If you need more photos or have other questions let me know bud. I'm about to mount my front BFF bumper next!

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

Did you reuse your factory mounting bolts? Or did you pick some new ones up from the hardware store? I'm debating if I want to just go ahead and upgrade to some grade 10 bolts and hardware.

 

[BattleCat]

Did you reuse your factory mounting bolts? Or did you pick some new ones up from the hardware store? I'm debating if I want to just go ahead and upgrade to some grade 10 bolts and hardware.

I just reused my factory bolts. Toyota OEM baby!

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

 

[Loubaru]

Can't wait to see the bumper installed! I used to work at a powder coater in college. I would ask to see some other bumpers they've done. Prep and (from what i remeber with fabricated steel stuff) baking out the oils will be key.

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

 

[blueranger501]

Just put 35s on my AC. No way with front it’s getting chopped right now. Same with the gears, 33s the limit. No way I would run 35s on stock 3.91s