2006 E350 Van Terra Build

[brp]

I have no solar, just a house battery that is 90amp hours if I remember correctly. My van had a house battery when I bought it, and as far as I could tell it was not serving anything, perhaps a trailer connection. That battery was located under the steps for the pedestrian door.

I took that battery and tray down and reused that battery tray, relocating it to the driver's side frame rail, about equal distance between the rear of the driver's seat and the rear axle. There were holes already in the frame that lined up perfectly. I did need some one inch sleeve spacers because this set-up was straddling the cables for the e-brake that run along the frame rail. Its a monumental pain in the ass to try to hoist a 70 pound battery up to the frame and tighten all that hardware by yourself. If you go this route, have somebody help you, or get a floor jack that can reach that high .

My battery was just a cheap Batteries Plus deal, they had a coupon on their website. All I have is LED lights and something like a 3 watt fan for my heater. I used a Blue Sea ACR 7610. This basically charges the house battery when the vehicle is running, then isolates the starter battery so you can't drain it. I used a bunch of Blue Sea fuses and fuse blocks, etc.
Blue Sea Systems ST Blade Fuse Block - 12 Circuits with Negative Bus & Cover
Blue Sea Systems AMI/MIDI Safety Fuse Block
Here was my cut off switch for the house system
CISNO On/off Disconnect Switch for RV Battery Boat Caravan 275/1250 Amps Waterproof

I got all the electrical bits and pieces written down somewhere, let me know if you want more detail.

The 7610 is kind of the heart of the system, pretty simple once you draw it out.

I have considered buying one of those solar suit cases, so I can park in the shade and put panels out in the sun, but I have not needed it yet, the battery has been fine. I kind of like having stuff not attached to the van, like the suitcase solar. Then you don't have to mount it, you can use it for other stuff, lend it to somebody....I bought a telescoping ladder, instead of one mounted to the van. I just bought it and threw it right in the storage. I can still get to the van roof, I can lean it against a tree for tying a tarp, or run it between two stumps for a bench. Just kind of my philosophy. Same thing for an air compressor, no integrated on board air, just a Viair in its box in the storage area. Ok, I'm rambling....

 

[cherokee1989]

Sorry about the delay all...time to play some catch up, reply, and post pics of the interior so far (still a mess haha):

cherokee1989 and brp (another sweet rig!):

What kind of tint do you guys have? It seems like a mirror-tint? Looks awesome. I'm gonna get either
limo or the same as yours. Mine isn't very stealthy since you can see into the van.

I am not sure what tint I have, it just came like that. The tint does get a lot of compliments though. My van was originally sort of a luxury bus/limo, so I am guessing the tint is common in vehicles like that.

My van gets hot in the sun. I would suggest you consider a tint that is good at rejecting heat.

I wish i had more tint in mine. If you check out the first pic you can basically see right through it, it's still a bit dark, but wold like more in the future. Brp, I'm also digging that reflective tint you have!

I got a Van Terra-specific question for you guys. I'm gonna paint mine with Rustoleum and wondering if I use the marine version since it's fiberglass?

Can't say too much about repainting fiberglass or the outside of any vehicle. I've done my fair share rattle can jobs and touch ups for my bumpers on various vehicles. I'm a pretty big fan of Plasti Dip though! I've used it on wheels and accent areas of cars and it's held up really well. Later on this year I plan to Plasti Dip the ENTIRE van. To get an idea of what's involved in this, check out Nate & Steph's Youtube channel "EXPLORIST life". They sprayed their entire Sprinter van with Plasti Dip for ~ $700 I think and have the 1 year review of it here: . Appears to have held up surprisingly well.

That's a really beautiful paint job and I love that blue. Well worth the $3500. I love how your tint pops out, reflecting the surrounding environs. If it wasn't for the "blue" your tint is almost like camo. I don't have the bankroll that you guys do, so I'm goin with the $50 DIY paint job.

Do you have any interior shots? Also, OP cherokee1989, sorry to have hijacked your thread, but I think it's cool that I've found you guys. I've googled everywhere and haven't come up with any other Van Terra conversions! Surprising, since it's almost the perfect platform for van/bus expeditions. Plus, it just looks cool IMO>. Any update pics on both your builds would be greatly appreciated. Thanks for your ideas, brp.

No worries on the "hijack" hah. Always good to throw ideas around. I've done the same thing and have found little research on people converting these Van Terras...so the more info the better!

One other couple here in CO started the same project last year. They've gotten pretty far lately and have a website documenting a decent amount of info on their interior build. Check them out at https://tillourwheelsfalloff.com/blog/ !!!



OK onto some updates and pics of interior progress. I've been sporadically working on it when I can, definitely helps that the gov is shutdown haha, joys of being a contractor for the BLM I guess.

Here's the ceiling insulation. Basically a layer of 1" to 1.5" foam board insulation based on space availability. Then a layer of reflectix taped together with foil tape. Threw up some furring strips then put up 1x4 boards for looks. Will possibly stain later on but for now it doesn't look bad el natural.




Here's a little snapshot of the insulation in the back. Fit 1" foam board insulation between the metal framing then another layer of 1" foam board, and then reflectix. Will be putting basic 1/8" paneling up to clean it up a bit. That first 2x4 in the lower left is the starting height of the bed platform.


Sorry about the phone pics, had to use the front camera on my phone to get the widest angle. Bed platform is installed. It's kind of hard to see but it's split into 3 sections (can see it separated by the 2 long metal hinges.) The middle board is stationary and screwed to the wood bed frame, then the front and rear panels just hinge up and down for better access to gear under the bed. You can also see I redid the floors, just added 1 inch foam board islation and another layer of plywood. Head room in the middle is right at 6' 2"


Here you can see the start of the bench seat (seats 2), then an Engel Fridge Freezer Combi, and the 2 passenger seats behind the driver seat. Hoping to finish the opposite side (passenger side) tomorrow with a single bench seat and a cabinet/counter space next to it.


And probably the most exciting part. The first shipment from Chris at Ujoint came in. Contains most of the small stuff, then the rest will be shipping out once the leaf springs are made, still a month or 2 out.


Hoping to have the basics of the interior finished by January 30 at the latest. That's the final day to get it registered. Just waiting until I get the basics requirements built to convert the title over to a motor-home and get it insured as an RV instead of a commercial vehicle.

 

[cherokee1989]

I have no solar, just a house battery that is 90amp hours if I remember correctly. My van had a house battery when I bought it, and as far as I could tell it was not serving anything, perhaps a trailer connection. That battery was located under the steps for the pedestrian door.

I took that battery and tray down and reused that battery tray, relocating it to the driver's side frame rail, about equal distance between the rear of the driver's seat and the rear axle. There were holes already in the frame that lined up perfectly. I did need some one inch sleeve spacers because this set-up was straddling the cables for the e-brake that run along the frame rail. Its a monumental pain in the ass to try to hoist a 70 pound battery up to the frame and tighten all that hardware by yourself. If you go this route, have somebody help you, or get a floor jack that can reach that high .

My battery was just a cheap Batteries Plus deal, they had a coupon on their website. All I have is LED lights and something like a 3 watt fan for my heater. I used a Blue Sea ACR 7610. This basically charges the house battery when the vehicle is running, then isolates the starter battery so you can't drain it. I used a bunch of Blue Sea fuses and fuse blocks, etc.
Blue Sea Systems ST Blade Fuse Block - 12 Circuits with Negative Bus & Cover
Blue Sea Systems AMI/MIDI Safety Fuse Block
Here was my cut off switch for the house system
CISNO On/off Disconnect Switch for RV Battery Boat Caravan 275/1250 Amps Waterproof

I got all the electrical bits and pieces written down somewhere, let me know if you want more detail.

The 7610 is kind of the heart of the system, pretty simple once you draw it out.

I have considered buying one of those solar suit cases, so I can park in the shade and put panels out in the sun, but I have not needed it yet, the battery has been fine. I kind of like having stuff not attached to the van, like the suitcase solar. Then you don't have to mount it, you can use it for other stuff, lend it to somebody....I bought a telescoping ladder, instead of one mounted to the van. I just bought it and threw it right in the storage. I can still get to the van roof, I can lean it against a tree for tying a tarp, or run it between two stumps for a bench. Just kind of my philosophy. Same thing for an air compressor, no integrated on board air, just a Viair in its box in the storage area. Ok, I'm rambling....

Ramble on brb, good way for me to get ideas. I'll most likely go with a simple battery set up also. My biggest consumer is most likely the Engle Combi, other than that it's just lights and tiny stuff. I like the idea of relocating the battery under the step to the drivers side frame rail. As far as my electrical management goes, I have a CTEK D250SA and CTEK Smartpass left over from my truck camper. Still playing around with wiring diagrams right now, so not much has happened with install yet.

The biggest issue I'm running into is the solar setup. The roof is super curvy with little to no flat spots. I may just put some wood reinforcemnt on the inside and fab a mount somehow. Or if i really want to get into I, I'll try to tie in a roof rack to the interior metal framing around the ceiling. But that's a project I'm not yet ready for hah. Anyone have any ideas for mounting solar panels?

 

[brp]

I mounted stainless steel eyes through the fiberglass, using huge washers on the backside to spread the forces. I used this as canoe tie-downs and they worked fine. I am pretty confident in the strength of the fiberglass if you take steps to spread forces. I worry about going through the steel frame and then the fiberglass, in case there is movement between the two. (the windows sandwich the two layers and are not a problem....). You could drill a larger hole I the steel, or take other steps to give little clearance for movement.

There are flexible, peel and stick, those could be an option. I have also heard of using 3M adhesives to mount solar, no penetrations. That may have been 3M VHB tape. If you go something like what is shown in this video, you could attach the angles to the panels in such a way that it follows the contours. CISNO On/off Disconnect Switch for RV Battery Boat Caravan 275/1250 Amps Waterproof

 

[diamondheaded]

Hi guys and thanks for the updates. I'm kind of embarrassed about my low-budget ghetto build compared
to yours but in the interest of mutual sharing here is a pic of my DIY $150 Rustoleum paint job.

As with most labor-intensive jobs, I start out gung-ho, but quickly fade. I had lofty ambitions of 4 coats and multiple wet-sanding sessions but after 6 hours of sanding and rollering in the blazing sun, that idea went south and I wound up doing just one coat after a quick sand job. The next day, I rattle canned it for all the detail work and that was it for me! Quite frankly I'm surprised it turned out so well for a hack job. It looks good up until you get right up close and can see the drips and irregularities. The matte black hides it all pretty well I must say and overall I'm stoked.

Simultaneously, I conned a friend -- who's almost as mechanically clueless as I -- to install the laminate flooring, build the bed and slap on the
limo tint. Again, not bad at all. Pics later.

Just ordered a 100 watt solar kit from Renogy and a Maxxair fan so that's my next project. Do you guys know if the fiberglass roof is safe to stand on? I don't want to risk having my friend get hurt....

 

[WVI]

I like it.
I'd try to spread weight out on that roof if you get on it.

 

[diamondheaded]

I like it.
I'd try to spread weight out on that roof if you get on it.

Thanks man! Yeah Im already getting comments from people.
Makes a huge difference. Before it was a boring church bus and now it's been reincarnated as either a
party bus or a tactical surf unit. lol

Hey cherokee1989
and brp: Having issues with the hydraulic door. At highway speeds it opens slightly and when parked it doesn't lock so it can easybe pried open by anyone seeking to break in. Any ideas? Hope it's an easy fix!

 

[brp]

I like it.
I'd try to spread weight out on that roof if you get on it.

I've been up on the roof plenty of times. There are metal ribs between the windows, so try to keep the weight there. If you just lay on your belly to spread the weight it is no problem.

Regarding the door...I believe there is a threaded rod connecting the actuator to the pivot/ball mount. I think you could spin the pivot/ball mount on the rod to slightly shorten it and make everything a little tighter. All of these mechanicals are accessible from the small storage box above the passenger's seat.

 

[cherokee1989]

Nice work diamondheaded, the black on black looks cool! Funny you mention the solar and fan...that'll be my next purchase this week. I think I'm going to shoot for 300-400 watts and lithium batteries from Battleborn, all controlled and charged with Victron stuff.

The doors going out must be pretty common, mine doesn't work either. It just flops around and if i dont tie it shut with some rope then it flops open on every turn or bump. Been playing around with it and the button works, motor works, and arm moves, but the rod for the door just doesn't move. It's as if it needs to be pushed up or down to catch it. Brp I'll give your suggestion a shot and see if I can move or tighten that ball, hopefully that'll do the trick. I'll report back this weekend if it works or I figure it out.

Honestly I'm not too worried about the door. Im heading to Sterling, CO to pick up an rv entrance door from a guy on Craigslist. I plan to remove the current glass door then build a wood frame for the rv door to fit into.

Also I found a front axle for the 4x4 conversion! Had to drive an hour up to Greeley, CO to get it. Dude had a 2004 F350 dually sitting on roller wheels and stripped to the frame. All I had to do was unbolt the front axle. Only took about an hour, gave the guy the cash and told him he could take off so he didn't have to wait while I removed it. Apparently removing it was the easy part. After that I spent about 4 hours trying to load it into the van by myself! I really under estimated the weight of this thing, not sure why I thought I could load it by myself hah. Later I looked up the approximate weight of these Dana 60s with hubs and basically it's around 480 pounds! I was able stack tires and lift the passenger side up into the back, that took 2 of the 4 hours. Then spent the last 2 trying to lift the differential side. Well by 8:30 PM I called it, there's was no way I was lifting this by myself. I knew no one in Greeley to help me, so a last resort was calling my mom and step dad in Denver to come help. Long story short, by 10 PM we had it loaded. It took my step dad and I lifting the differential side together and then my mom basically pushing us so we could slide it in the back. That all happened Sunday night and needless to say it's still sitting in the van haha.

This is the only picture I have between all the lifting and frustration. Don't ask how that tire got looped in the middle around the differential...

 

[WVI]

OUCH!

 

[Raul]

After unloading a rear axle using straps and a A-frame ladder and almost killing my neighbor, I bought a Harbor freight 1-ton crane before I got the front Axle.

 

[diamondheaded]

I've been up on the roof plenty of times. There are metal ribs between the windows, so try to keep the weight there. If you just lay on your belly to spread the weight it is no problem.

Regarding the door...I believe there is a threaded rod connecting the actuator to the pivot/ball mount. I think you could spin the pivot/ball mount on the rod to slightly shorten it and make everything a little tighter. All of these mechanicals are accessible from the small storage box above the passenger's seat.

Thanks! Gonna try fix today.

 

[diamondheaded]

Nice work diamondheaded, the black on black looks cool! Funny you mention the solar and fan...that'll be my next purchase this week. I think I'm going to shoot for 300-400 watts and lithium batteries from Battleborn, all controlled and charged with Victron stuff.

The doors going out must be pretty common, mine doesn't work either. It just flops around and if i dont tie it shut with some rope then it flops open on every turn or bump. Been playing around with it and the button works, motor works, and arm moves, but the rod for the door just doesn't move. It's as if it needs to be pushed up or down to catch it. Brp I'll give your suggestion a shot and see if I can move or tighten that ball, hopefully that'll do the trick. I'll report back this weekend if it works or I figure it out.

Honestly I'm not too worried about the door. Im heading to Sterling, CO to pick up an rv entrance door from a guy on Craigslist. I plan to remove the current glass door then build a wood frame for the rv door to fit into.

Also I found a front axle for the 4x4 conversion! Had to drive an hour up to Greeley, CO to get it. Dude had a 2004 F350 dually sitting on roller wheels and stripped to the frame. All I had to do was unbolt the front axle. Only took about an hour, gave the guy the cash and told him he could take off so he didn't have to wait while I removed it. Apparently removing it was the easy part. After that I spent about 4 hours trying to load it into the van by myself! I really under estimated the weight of this thing, not sure why I thought I could load it by myself hah. Later I looked up the approximate weight of these Dana 60s with hubs and basically it's around 480 pounds! I was able stack tires and lift the passenger side up into the back, that took 2 of the 4 hours. Then spent the last 2 trying to lift the differential side. Well by 8:30 PM I called it, there's was no way I was lifting this by myself. I knew no one in Greeley to help me, so a last resort was calling my mom and step dad in Denver to come help. Long story short, by 10 PM we had it loaded. It took my step dad and I lifting the differential side together and then my mom basically pushing us so we could slide it in the back. That all happened Sunday night and needless to say it's still sitting in the van haha.

This is the only picture I have between all the lifting and frustration. Don't ask how that tire got looped in the middle around the differential...View attachment 493863

Damn, are you and brp professional mechanics? Both of you have amazing McGiver skillsets I wish I had. The rv door solution is the best idea. Way outta my budget. I priced em out and they're like $500 for just the door. I'd have to pay another $500 to have it installed.

Thanks for the tips guys! Getting a low budget dual battery setup installed today...

 

[Bikersmurf]

“MacGyver” is my middle name... at least according to my Leatherman that was (unfortunately) pinched.

 

[cherokee1989]

Damn, are you and brp professional mechanics? Both of you have amazing McGiver skillsets I wish I had. The rv door solution is the best idea. Way outta my budget. I priced em out and they're like $500 for just the door. I'd have to pay another $500 to have it installed.

Thanks for the tips guys! Getting a low budget dual battery setup installed today...

Hah thanks, I'm definitely not a pro, just a lot of YouTube and forum browsing!

For the door, always check Craigslist or rv salvage yards. The guy I'm meeting in Sterling, CO has a few 2018 campers and several doors with screens, locks, and keys...all for $150 a door! The deals are out there.