2006 Mitsubishi Montero Limited worth it.

[coffeegoat]

Yeah, so it's a bit tricky. A full on brake failure is the ABS light + buzzer + impossible to push down pedal. That's really bad, and hopefully avoidable. An ABS light can (and should) be diagnosed by using the codes, though prophylactically replacing the ABS pump might be a good idea if you plan on driving out into the middle of nowhere.

How to check codes

ABS Codes

Thread here on fixing the brakes

In my case - and it others, the ABS light came on for an unrelated reason (bad sensors, bad ground, whatever) and the general wisdom was to replace the pump. Turns out in my case the pump was dying - but not yet dead. It was full of metal and carbon shavings, as well as the stator was falling apart. So no full on failure yet, but it could have gone at any time. A bit of eBay work and you can find either a new pump or a rebuilt for not a terrible amount of money and the fix is pretty straight forward. There are a bunch of cars/trucks in this vintage (all makes) that have the same pump motor and problem, its right about when the old school intake vacuum brake boosters went out of fashion, so I'm curious if these first generations had some teething problems.

 

[SONICMASD]

In my case - and it others, the ABS light came on for an unrelated reason (bad sensors, bad ground, whatever) and the general wisdom was to replace the pump. Turns out in my case the pump was dying - but not yet dead. It was full of metal and carbon shavings, as well as the stator was falling apart. So no full on failure yet, but it could have gone at any time.

Now that your pump was replaced, can you still hear it turn on from inside the cab when you apply brakes? I always just assumed this was normal since it has been a feature of every Gen3 I've driven but they've all had old pumps so I'm interested to know if your replacement does it as well. Thx

 

[coffeegoat]

Yes, you can still hear the pump turn on - and if you're careful you can feel it in the brakes. It doesn't come on every time you brake, probably only 25% of the time. Theoretically that's what the accumulator is for, it gets charged up by the pump and then when it's depleted then the pump turns back on. It's the same reason that when you pump the brakes when the truck is off it's easy, easy, easy, hard, you've depleted the accumulator and then you feel the real pressure. When you're flushing the system you can actually watch the brake reservoir go up and down as you charge and discharge the accumulator. As you pump the brakes the reservoir will slightly fill, and when the pump kicks on it'll slightly empty.

I couldn't say if it's louder or softer since after doing all the work to replace it you become a bit super sensitive.... I actually notice it on other vehicles now, HBB pumps are pretty common, so once you get sensitized you hear/feel them everywhere.

 

[Montesaurus]

T

Yeah, so it's a bit tricky. A full on brake failure is the ABS light + buzzer + impossible to push down pedal. That's really bad, and hopefully avoidable. An ABS light can (and should) be diagnosed by using the codes, though prophylactically replacing the ABS pump might be a good idea if you plan on driving out into the middle of nowhere.

How to check codes

ABS Codes

Thread here on fixing the brakes

In my case - and it others, the ABS light came on for an unrelated reason (bad sensors, bad ground, whatever) and the general wisdom was to replace the pump. Turns out in my case the pump was dying - but not yet dead. It was full of metal and carbon shavings, as well as the stator was falling apart. So no full on failure yet, but it could have gone at any time. A bit of eBay work and you can find either a new pump or a rebuilt for not a terrible amount of money and the fix is pretty straight forward. There are a bunch of cars/trucks in this vintage (all makes) that have the same pump motor and problem, its right about when the old school intake vacuum brake boosters went out of fashion, so I'm curious if these first generations had some teething problems.

This is super helpful I appreciate it alot. Will look to get both replaced in the near future hopefully I won't have to spend a whole lot if I can find a refurb like you mentioned.. Do you suggest any other things I should focus on or look for maintenance wise kinda at a loss where to start even. With limited cash atm would rather just do things to ensure the truck stays in good working condition until I can afford more luxury/fun upgrades.

 

[coffeegoat]

Oh man, that's a rabbit hole, I have the earlier engine in mine (3.5 6G74) and because I had zero records I did the full water-pump/timing belt rebuilt along with a few other details that I did because I asked the same question "while I'm in there should I?" I'd look around the forum for the standard lists with the 3.8 L engine, I'm not as familiar with that one. Though I will say in general, I've been pleased with how little the truck needs for being 18 years old.

 

[Montesaurus]

Oh man, that's a rabbit hole, I have the earlier engine in mine (3.5 6G74) and because I had zero records I did the full water-pump/timing belt rebuilt along with a few other details that I did because I asked the same question "while I'm in there should I?" I'd look around the forum for the standard lists with the 3.8 L engine, I'm not as familiar with that one. Though I will say in general, I've been pleased with how little the truck needs for being 18 years old.

Good to hear. I'll poke around and see what I can find thanks!

 

[ChrisCosta416]

There is a guide that I helped with, it’s a general “you bought a 3.8l 3rd gen here’s what you should do along with the timing belt” guide, it should be up on this forum if not I’ll post it

 

[Montesaurus]

There is a guide that I helped with, it’s a general “you bought a 3.8l 3rd gen here’s what you should do along with the timing belt” guide, it should be up on this forum if not I’ll post it

If you could post it I would be super greatful!

 

[Montesaurus]

More problems showed up today... While driving I tried to switch from 2h into 4h we had snow on the roads and it was 5F anyways when I switched there was this loud rubbing noise pop noise after the Monty warmed up it had no problems is this a cold issue?? Also the engine light along with traction control light came on when pulling codes can you use a normal obdII scanner?

 

[kalieracer]

I would just use Aisin SPIII and save the coin. Also Aisin , Enos or Mitsuidle likely makes the OEM fluid. The Kia Hyundai fluid is also the same. All work the same no need to spend more than 4.50 a bottle.

Oh and this is really important - use genuine mitsu SPIII fluid only, nothing else, even if it says “SPIII compatible”

 

[SONICMASD]

Mitsu SPIII from the dealer is $6.00/qt here in Phoenix so even though I think you're right that the AISIN and ENOS stuff is the probably the same and *maybe* the Kia/Hyundai stuff is too, I'm not gonna chance it to save $10. But if you can't find the Mitsu stuff then ya, ENOS would be my second choice since I think they are the OEM fluid manufacturer that Mitsu uses and NAPA has ENOS.

 

[SONICMASD]

More problems showed up today... While driving I tried to switch from 2h into 4h we had snow on the roads and it was 5F anyways when I switched there was this loud rubbing noise pop noise after the Monty warmed up it had no problems is this a cold issue?? Also the engine light along with traction control light came on when pulling codes can you use a normal obdII scanner?

1. The transfer case noise could be from not being used often. Gen3s seem to have more of a finicky transfer case that doesn't like sitting without being exercised every now and then. Shift through your transfer case gears every time you use the car after it has warmed up for the next week or two and this usually solves the problem. If it doesn't then the next step would be to drain the tcase and fill with fresh fluid. Your owner's manual has the fluid specs, the most important thing is make sure you get GL-4 fluid, not GL-5. And nothing with Limited Slip additive or friction modifiers, just regular manual transmission/transfer case gear oil. Mitsubishi has their own which is only like $6/qt (takes 3 qts) and so does AMSOIL off the top of my head.

2. Yes, you can use any code reader to get your Check Engine Light codes, even a cheap $20 OBDII dongle off Amazon. It may not be able to read or reset everything like SRS or TPMS codes for example but it will read the vast majority of codes.

 

[Michael Brown]

Aisin is the OEM transmission manufacturer for Mitsubishi, Toyota, Honda, Hyundai, and Kia. They made the SP-III spec for the fluid in their units and sell transmissions to the OEM. Each OEM then has their service parts stock the same fluid in an OEM bottle. The Montero just uses an Aisin design modified by Mitsubishi. I have used Hyundai (on my 01), KIA (used for 50k miles) and Aisin (the last 11k miles) versions of the SP-III fluid and can confirm that there are no problems. The correct fluid will have a deep translucent ruby red color when new. You will need ~10-12 qts for the full fluid swap.

 

[coffeegoat]

I know it sounds weird, but exercising the 4WD system really does help on these trucks. There is enough moving parts that get sticky that it sometimes takes a bit to get them moving. I notice when things get cold (read viscous) they can get grumpy.

 

[kalieracer]

Most dealers charge 16-17 a quart for it. Enos is literally owned by Mitsubishi. Aisin developed the trans and makes fluid no way it is any different than the mitsu one sold for more. You can not go wrong with either one over the factory one. Any fluid made to the SPIII spec is going to be the same. Just like oil if it meets the spec for the given car / mfg it is good to go.. We are not talking about a generic fluid like castrol transmax that says it covers a bunch of specs.

Ferrari uses Shell in Europe but for the NA markets uses Penzoil (which is also a Shell brand). The local Napa literally sends over pallets of the stuff to the offsite service dept, the bottles all have the Ferrari seal on the back of the bottle showing it is the approved oil. I can go to the Ferrari dealer and buy one in prancing horse bottle for 25 or get the same stuff their service dept has in the retail bottle for 9 bucks..

Mitsu SPIII from the dealer is $6.00/qt here in Phoenix so even though I think you're right that the AISIN and ENOS stuff is the probably the same and *maybe* the Kia/Hyundai stuff is too, I'm not gonna chance it to save $10. But if you can't find the Mitsu stuff then ya, ENOS would be my second choice since I think they are the OEM fluid manufacturer that Mitsu uses and NAPA has ENOS.