2007 Dodge Cummins "Power Wagon" Camper

[dieselfuel]

those sliders are amazing, adding the treaded surface was really good idea. ive never seen the stuff on anything but semi truck steps, didn't know you could buy it like that...

 

[TRACTION]

That is good to hear, I was getting ready to order the track filler plastics. Do you think they are secure enough to stay in at highway speeds on the roof rack?

It seems secure enough to stay put at highway speeds. It won't slide along the track hardly at all once it's in place. I guess it's possible that the wind could lift the leading edge and lever it up and out but not likely.

 

[Maverick1701]

subscribing! I loved the scout build and can't wait to see what happens with this build...

 

[MotoDave]

MS33601 Is the spec for the track, I saved it a while ago in case I wanted to make some custom inserts. I used it in place of the thin sheet metal tracks in my tundra, and have 2 more tracks ready to mount to the top of the platform I plan to build.

Great job on the build, your fabrication style is inspiring. I may have to borrow a few ideas for my Scout 80 build.

 

[Outback]

The best way to gain 2 mpg on the highway is to swap out to Selectable front hubs.

 

[Xfactor]

whats the weight difference between the conti's and the toyo's? also what gearing does the truck have? any plans to change for the taller tire? any updates on the interior console?

thanks, great build!!

 

[rube bonet]

Can't wait to see those on the truck and mounted up. In case I missed it, what gears is it running?

3.73, should put rpms at approx 1800 @ 65mph, 2000 @ 75 mph.

what is the aired up height on the Continentals?

Don't know yet, they are not aired up! They look like they will be right at 37" inflated.

whats the weight difference between the conti's and the toyo's? also what gearing does the truck have? any plans to change for the taller tire? any updates on the interior console?

thanks, great build!!

130 pounds for the Walkers and MPTs, 110 for the toyos and steel wheels. So, 20 lbs of weight gain per wheel got us a true 37" tire diameter, bead locks, and an additional 1380 lbs of load rating (load range "G") per tire! The off road ability and longevity (the toyos were already chunking under the weight) should be much greater, it also put the cummins in a happier rpm range for our highway usage.

those sliders are amazing, adding the treaded surface was really good idea. ive never seen the stuff on anything but semi truck steps, didn't know you could buy it like that...

They have all kinds of cool sheeting, grating, perforated products-- http://www.mcnichols.com/viewer.htm

It seems secure enough to stay put at highway speeds. It won't slide along the track hardly at all once it's in place. I guess it's possible that the wind could lift the leading edge and lever it up and out but not likely.

Good! It will come in handy for keeping the tracks clear of snow and ice.

The best way to gain 2 mpg on the highway is to swap out to Selectable front hubs.

I like the idea of swapping to the full float spindles and locking hubs for the mileage and durability of the spindle set up, at least in theory. The truth is, in all of my hardcore machines, I swap out locking hubs for drive flanges. The spindle and bearing set up seems "stronger", but I have had axle shaft and bearing failures take out spindles on older 60's, so they are not immune to problems.

The other downsides are that you have locking hubs to fail and carry spare parts for, and they are prone to damage with the offset of wheel required. I have had good luck with the dodge unit bearing design (using the right offset wheel), and they are very easy to carry a spare for and change out on the trail if needed. They will also be easier to source if required in out of the way places.

The stock AAM axles should be plenty beefy for our intended usage, so the main gain would be MPG at this point.


And thanks to all for the compliments!:sombrero:

 

[rube bonet]

This next bit of update is a good reason to invest in good fabricators. The rear bumper was a fairly stout piece composed of 1/4 plate formed into a channel, housing the rear hydraulic winch. The rear frame crossmember/ receiver had been completely cut out eek, and the bumper mounts consisted of a few bolts, some 5/8 strap and a few pounds worth of washers stacked up as shims. The frame was now relying on the aftermarket receiver for lateral support, and the bumper had little bracing for a hard sidepull. The final straw was the rear recovery points (done by a different shop than the original bumper builder) "welded" onto the face of all of this.

The d ring mounts were your typical 3/4 recovery point that a lot of retailers sell, mig welded on with no chamfering, grinding, cleaning, or talent involved.:Wow1:

It also required no grinding or cutting of any kind to remove. It didn't even take the big hammer, just a medium one, and about 6 hits.



The little white dots are where it actually "penetrated" about a 1/16 into the mount

 

[rube bonet]

The fix was relatively simple. I sliced the bumper up into 3 sections. The bumper mount/ d ring mount are one solid piece of plate mounted to the frame with a lot of grade 8 hardware. Bumper channels fully box the plate, giving lots of lateral support. The frame cross member was sleeved back together with Dom tubing, and the receiver mount tied into the lower bumper mounting surface. The outer portion of the d ring mount was reinforced with 3 more pieces of plate sandwiching it.

Frame mount/ d ring mount sleeved through factory frame mounting holes (mock up hardware in place)

 

[Jr_Explorer]

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THAT'S why I don't weld and why I'm paranoid about the cheap flux wire welders (and to some extent MIG in general). I love your final solution though! Looks tough as nails now.

 

[TRACTION]

THAT's why I enlist a qualified welder/fabricator for the safety oriented stuff. I know better than to unleash my limited welding skills on those sort of things.

 

[piratexpress1369a]

dam rob again great build love your fab' work

 

[rube bonet]

I see all of the 'speed holes' as being a problem when mixed with ice, snow, and the general muck on the roads in such conditions. With more and more states succumbing to the salt lobby's pressure these will lead to hidden "tin worm" with the potential for catastrophic consequences. I get why they are there, but I still say that holes are evil - avoid them at all costs. Do the same coining w/o the holes if you want the benefits of the coining. Look at the trend setting 90's Mountain Cycle monocoque MTB frames for inspiration.

I'm sorry you don't like them, but it is the most cost effective way for me to drastically reduce weight without losing strength. I like with your example, but machining webs out of each piece would be time consuming to say the least! Every mount and brace has been designed with large drain holes, and powdercoated, to hope hopefully reduce "the potential for catastrophic consequences", especially with some regular cleaning.

The seat mounts for the mastercraft seats are mocked up and ready for final welding. I was able to retain the factory sliders, but raised the whole assembly up to gain quite a bit more room under the seats.



The next order of business was to get these big tires to clear. Mounted on the wheels, they ended up almost 37.5 inches tall, they almost fit perfectly in the fenderwells...



They clear just fine with the tires turned straight, and actually tuck into the fenderwells. The backside of the fender interferes when turned however, and some fender trimming will be necessary. I also folded over the pinch seam to gain the clearance needed inside at the rear of the well.

 

[daddyusmaximus]

Top notch fab skills! I subscribed for reference. I really want to bring you my Super Duty, just not sure I could afford to. Love those sliders, love the frame stiffening and skid plates too. Hell, I love this whole build! Could a stout roof rack like that be bolted to a fiberglass shell? My rack is mounted to Thule load bars, one of which has already succumbed to a tree branch.

 

[rube bonet]

:bowdown::elkgrin: Well, I guess I'm screwed. I have no way of hydroforming one off custom parts, and no machining could ever be done using your continuous stress flow methods, nor do I have access to a foundry to forge these parts.


I actually agree with what you are saying, and do my best to use engineering principles and personal experiences behind my fabrication, I'm sorry you disagree with the results.