2007 LR3 - my 10 yr build thread...

[Avslash]

Jwestpro,

I have enjoyed reading through this thread.

Do you plan on keeping the bump stop extension kit after your testing?

I have had the kit sitting in my garage for over a year, and am still debating on installing it.

On my LR4, I am running 275/65R18 K02's. With the air springs completely deflated, they are definitely into the fender liners. My "solution" has been to install the GOE EAS kit. Essentially, it's a Schrader valve that allows the manual inflation of each corner independently to deal with a compressor, air line, or valve block problem. It would allow a workaround to any situation short of a blown air bladder. To deal with that possibility, I have just thrown a replacement front and rear strut into the truck with the assumption that while it would suck to change one on the trail, it could be done.

Haven't ever been able to fully convince myself that the bump stop extensions with their ancillary changes in articulation, limit straps, ride characteristics, etc are worth it versus what I have cobbled together.

Would be interested to hear your thoughts after running them on a modded truck.

 

[Victory_Overland]

@Jwestpro What awning enclosure is that?

 

[Jwestpro]

@Jwestpro What awning enclosure is that?

Hannibal as well as the rack seeing as they work well together but I imagine other awnings would mount to the rack side rails. However, I doubt the Hannibal awning would work as well with other racks not having the exact extrusion rail. One could adapt them though by other attachment methods. I also have the longer full length side awning and it's walls.

 

[Jwestpro]

 

[jkatka]

Is that up Tinkham road?

 

[Jwestpro]

No. Stampede pass is closest access. No connections that I am aware of below Snoqualmie Pass due to gates or no roads.

 

[Victory_Overland]

Lovely!

 

[Jwestpro]

Pretty much have the strut spacers and ride height settings dialed in now. Used “tight tolerances” mode to adjust each corner to be at exactly factory plus 50mm hub center to fender. DIY shorter rods are good length,
(I forget but close to 10 mm shorter I think)

Nice outing yesterday :

Big loop day in Cascades. 10 hrs w 3.5 on 4x4 trail Naches/Govt meadows route eastbound, 3 hrs 50/50 improved vs unmaintained forest/logging roads.

The suspension has the 2” strut spacers which is part of why you see the cross articulation with so much reach at left rear while not as much stuffed into front left or right rear fenders. Keep in mind there are 34” tires which make the clearances the worst possible when stuffed in.

Psi around 28, weight is in 7200 lbs range so that’s about perfect for the sidewalk size and weight per tire.

 

[Jwestpro]

 

[morrisdl]

Well done JWest! Pic 6 is impressive flex. Are you still using LLAMS electronic trickery or just GAP IID to set the height? What size are your BFG?

Jason should give you some swag...I think you just sold us on the strut spacers.

 

[Jwestpro]

Well done JWest! Pic 6 is impressive flex. Are you still using LLAMS electronic trickery or just GAP IID to set the height? What size are your BFG?

Jason should give you some swag...I think you just sold us on the strut spacers.

I of course will always have the llams in but i don't always default to using it all the time during all situations. Here's why:
It provides on the fly over-ride control as +20 or +25 (i can't recall), then +50mm, or -20. On a gravel road with the usual pot holes etc, the +20 is perfect to take the edge off and keep your struts out of the bump stop zone. However, if you're using terrain response like "mud n ruts", the system automatically also chooses factory "off road" height, which combined with +20, is more than needed and starts to approach the undesirable extended strut feeling where you lose too much down travel.

-more later