I spoke with Andy at length about his Ford-powered Series LR. Looks like an incredible beast. As for the suspension, he did give me the GAP tool but I need to transfer the license. It's still logged into his account on my iPhone X, but for some reason there are still a bunch of features that I'm locked out of on the GAP tool such as the ability to program keys and reactivate the rear diff; probably because he has an Android and the setup for the tool asks for the phone you're using.
The truck is still on the Maxxis 35" Trepadors. Personally, I would rather a 33/34 tire because the 35" rub a ton and add to the rotating mass (not to mention they piss off the traction control system a ton). That said, I'm inclined to keep the 35 just because it is a part of this truck's personality. I know the SYA kit and bumper were prototypes and the rack he built himself, but I didn't know there were additional copies of the rack made. Alignment is an issue due to positive camber, but the rears seem to be wearing OK. Apparently he did the front CVs (boots were new and shiny), but there's a loud metallic ticking noise coming from the left front that sound bearing-like (Happens when I have the truck articulated with the left front stuffed into the wheel well and TC is trying to divert power to that wheel) so I assume something didn't go back together properly or I have bigger issues. Next items I need to replace are the rear half shafts because the left rear CV is cooked and the 35"s probably have those axles living on borrowed time. I could've bought a much nicer/cleaner LR3 with similar miles for the amount I paid for this thing, but the reality is that this truck has A TON of time and parts dumped into it. As you said, little things should make this a much nicer truck overall.
Best size is 285/70-18, not the 1" wider section 12.5 due to obvious reasons. On a factory offset 18x8, they 100% fit in every scenario under full flex and turning as well as tested with zero air in struts.
Strut spacers of course (and rods but only for purpose of satisfying the height computers), but NO wheel spacers. This combo fully tucks and required zero fender liner trimming and does not rub. The only place it's close and a little annoying if rocks are in the tread blocks is at the slider - and I think only on the passenger side.
Used this set up for a while now in various conditions. My goal was to be able to absolutely ride on the highway of needed, with no air LOL and also still turn sharply while bottomed out in parking garages in Seattle. I use the Lllams tool to drop the height lower than access allows (this does not mean it gets to original access height though due to the strut spacers).
Testing shows that the sensors till get excited when you drop it too low and it will want to raise. This can be tricky in a garage situation!
The BFG KM2 is the tire I chose for what it is but also size. My lr3 weighs around 8200 lbs on loaded trips and 7400 normal use.
Also, for the axle angles and such, I have the standard ride height set to just 50mm more than factory, which is the amount of the strut spacers. This is so that the strut is at it's ideal highway/normal driving length which allows it to fully retain the best handling characteristics especially at 70-80 mph. I've tested a lot with it set incrementally lower but much less than -10mm from neutral it becomes apparent the compression travel is lost for the worst dips and that is only amplified with the much higher vehicle weight. I have run it at -20mm a lot because that's the first click on the Llams switch but it's only best for smoother roads with less big dips. By dips I don't mean pot holes or gravel road stuff, I mean smooth dips that are long and deep enough you feel the huge weight shift.
Also, of note is the alignment was able to be right at the limit but still in spec.
