2008 Land Rover LR3 on 35"s - Refurbish/Rebuild Thread

[Victory_Overland]

CV angles are just like pinion angles; too much creates a lot of vibration and a ton of stress! Hence why most IFS lifts over 3 inches need pinion angle compensation for longevity and normal suspension travel. Diffs are usually lowered to keep the driveshaft and axle angles as close to factory as possible.

Just my two cents!

 

[soflorovers]

CV angles are just like pinion angles; too much creates a lot of vibration and a ton of stress! Hence why most IFS lifts over 3 inches need pinion angle compensation for longevity and normal suspension travel. Diffs are usually lowered to keep the driveshaft and axle angles as close to factory as possible.

Just my two cents!

You're absolutely on point. There's a fabrication company that does massive lifts for L494 Range Rover Sports and they drop the subframes with spacers I believe to keep the angles within check. Unfortunately, I'm not sure how much time/money this particular truck merits, given the overall condition. I'm inclined to simply put new halfshafts in it and accept that the lifespan/longevity of the CVs will be severely reduced due to the 35"s and that they're just another consumable item.

 

[soflorovers]

Hit the trails this weekend with @charactorclub down in Homestead. Who needs a boat anyways? It was a blast to say the least! Both Charactorclub and I posted some photos and videos on our Instagram pages if anyone is interested.

 

[rlynch356]

The previous owner did all of the mods, so I'm not 100% certain. However, I can confirm it has a GAP tool, so I'm guessing the lift is done with the tool. I'll get under it and check the height sensors to see if it's also running rods. In addition, it has 30 mm Terrafirma wheel spacers, L8 SYA kit, front frame horn modification, rear pinch welds hammered, and I believe the rear AC lines had to be heated up and massaged for clearance. If you have sliders, you'll also need to cut those to fit the tires. The fender liners have been cut up so badly that I'm tempted to almost remove them altogether.

I know that truck well, its been up the hardest stuff on the east coast.. so he designed the original SYA kit, sliders, bumper and that rack (is a prototype) for those trucks, btw.. there is a lot of custom stuff in that one. It does have L8 rods on it with a custom setup via the gap on Air springs.. you might want to save the settings you bought it with. Last time i wheeled with it it was on maxxis 34/35's, the LR3 does well off road with as big a tire as you can get on it, my old LR3 was the next gen of this one also built by the same person and LRC but running 12.5 33's for sanity and they tuck better but really the 35 is the way to go. Alignment is an issue, but we never broke a half shaft. Sort out the smaller stuff and you have an awesome rig... you should see his series v8 crawler buggy unless he sold that too to fund the ultra4 project.

 

[soflorovers]

I know that truck well, its been up the hardest stuff on the east coast.. so he designed the original SYA kit, sliders, bumper and that rack (is a prototype) for those trucks, btw.. there is a lot of custom stuff in that one. It does have L8 rods on it with a custom setup via the gap on Air springs.. you might want to save the settings you bought it with. Last time i wheeled with it it was on maxxis 34/35's, the LR3 does well off road with as big a tire as you can get on it, my old LR3 was the next gen of this one also built by the same person and LRC but running 12.5 33's for sanity and they tuck better but really the 35 is the way to go. Alignment is an issue, but we never broke a half shaft. Sort out the smaller stuff and you have an awesome rig... you should see his series v8 crawler buggy unless he sold that too to fund the ultra4 project.

I spoke with Andy at length about his Ford-powered Series LR. Looks like an incredible beast. As for the suspension, he did give me the GAP tool but I need to transfer the license. It's still logged into his account on my iPhone X, but for some reason there are still a bunch of features that I'm locked out of on the GAP tool such as the ability to program keys and reactivate the rear diff; probably because he has an Android and the setup for the tool asks for the phone you're using.

The truck is still on the Maxxis 35" Trepadors. Personally, I would rather a 33/34 tire because the 35" rub a ton and add to the rotating mass (not to mention they piss off the traction control system a ton). That said, I'm inclined to keep the 35 just because it is a part of this truck's personality. I know the SYA kit and bumper were prototypes and the rack he built himself, but I didn't know there were additional copies of the rack made. Alignment is an issue due to positive camber, but the rears seem to be wearing OK. Apparently he did the front CVs (boots were new and shiny), but there's a loud metallic ticking noise coming from the left front that sound bearing-like (Happens when I have the truck articulated with the left front stuffed into the wheel well and TC is trying to divert power to that wheel) so I assume something didn't go back together properly or I have bigger issues. Next items I need to replace are the rear half shafts because the left rear CV is cooked and the 35"s probably have those axles living on borrowed time. I could've bought a much nicer/cleaner LR3 with similar miles for the amount I paid for this thing, but the reality is that this truck has A TON of time and parts dumped into it. As you said, little things should make this a much nicer truck overall.

 

[douglastic]

. . . But where can I buy that front bumper?

Yes I registered just to ask.

 

[soflorovers]

. . . But where can I buy that front bumper?

Yes I registered just to ask.

Well....you can't get it anymore unfortunately. It's an early Lucky 8 design that is no longer made. They still make something similar though:

LUCKY 8 LR3 CFE BUMPER

Finally, a cost effective solution for the front of your LR3! Brand new from Lucky 8 is the CFE bumper. Our modular bumper comes complete with mounting points for recovery shackles, a winch tray, holes for fog lights and an a-bar for your aux. lights, this is the bumper you've been waiting for...

www.lucky8llc.com

 

[Jwestpro]

I spoke with Andy at length about his Ford-powered Series LR. Looks like an incredible beast. As for the suspension, he did give me the GAP tool but I need to transfer the license. It's still logged into his account on my iPhone X, but for some reason there are still a bunch of features that I'm locked out of on the GAP tool such as the ability to program keys and reactivate the rear diff; probably because he has an Android and the setup for the tool asks for the phone you're using.

The truck is still on the Maxxis 35" Trepadors. Personally, I would rather a 33/34 tire because the 35" rub a ton and add to the rotating mass (not to mention they piss off the traction control system a ton). That said, I'm inclined to keep the 35 just because it is a part of this truck's personality. I know the SYA kit and bumper were prototypes and the rack he built himself, but I didn't know there were additional copies of the rack made. Alignment is an issue due to positive camber, but the rears seem to be wearing OK. Apparently he did the front CVs (boots were new and shiny), but there's a loud metallic ticking noise coming from the left front that sound bearing-like (Happens when I have the truck articulated with the left front stuffed into the wheel well and TC is trying to divert power to that wheel) so I assume something didn't go back together properly or I have bigger issues. Next items I need to replace are the rear half shafts because the left rear CV is cooked and the 35"s probably have those axles living on borrowed time. I could've bought a much nicer/cleaner LR3 with similar miles for the amount I paid for this thing, but the reality is that this truck has A TON of time and parts dumped into it. As you said, little things should make this a much nicer truck overall.

Best size is 285/70-18, not the 1" wider section 12.5 due to obvious reasons. On a factory offset 18x8, they 100% fit in every scenario under full flex and turning as well as tested with zero air in struts.

Strut spacers of course (and rods but only for purpose of satisfying the height computers), but NO wheel spacers. This combo fully tucks and required zero fender liner trimming and does not rub. The only place it's close and a little annoying if rocks are in the tread blocks is at the slider - and I think only on the passenger side.

Used this set up for a while now in various conditions. My goal was to be able to absolutely ride on the highway of needed, with no air LOL and also still turn sharply while bottomed out in parking garages in Seattle. I use the Lllams tool to drop the height lower than access allows (this does not mean it gets to original access height though due to the strut spacers).

Testing shows that the sensors till get excited when you drop it too low and it will want to raise. This can be tricky in a garage situation!

The BFG KM2 is the tire I chose for what it is but also size. My lr3 weighs around 8200 lbs on loaded trips and 7400 normal use.

Also, for the axle angles and such, I have the standard ride height set to just 50mm more than factory, which is the amount of the strut spacers. This is so that the strut is at it's ideal highway/normal driving length which allows it to fully retain the best handling characteristics especially at 70-80 mph. I've tested a lot with it set incrementally lower but much less than -10mm from neutral it becomes apparent the compression travel is lost for the worst dips and that is only amplified with the much higher vehicle weight. I have run it at -20mm a lot because that's the first click on the Llams switch but it's only best for smoother roads with less big dips. By dips I don't mean pot holes or gravel road stuff, I mean smooth dips that are long and deep enough you feel the huge weight shift.

Also, of note is the alignment was able to be right at the limit but still in spec.

 

[soflorovers]

Best size is 285/70-18, not the 1" wider section 12.5 due to obvious reasons. On a factory offset 18x8, they 100% fit in every scenario under full flex and turning as well as tested with zero air in struts.

Strut spacers of course (and rods but only for purpose of satisfying the height computers), but NO wheel spacers. This combo fully tucks and required zero fender liner trimming and does not rub. The only place it's close and a little annoying if rocks are in the tread blocks is at the slider - and I think only on the passenger side.

Used this set up for a while now in various conditions. My goal was to be able to absolutely ride on the highway of needed, with no air LOL and also still turn sharply while bottomed out in parking garages in Seattle. I use the Lllams tool to drop the height lower than access allows (this does not mean it gets to original access height though due to the strut spacers).

Testing shows that the sensors till get excited when you drop it too low and it will want to raise. This can be tricky in a garage situation!

The BFG KM2 is the tire I chose for what it is but also size. My lr3 weighs around 8200 lbs on loaded trips and 7400 normal use.

Also, for the axle angles and such, I have the standard ride height set to just 50mm more than factory, which is the amount of the strut spacers. This is so that the strut is at it's ideal highway/normal driving length which allows it to fully retain the best handling characteristics especially at 70-80 mph. I've tested a lot with it set incrementally lower but much less than -10mm from neutral it becomes apparent the compression travel is lost for the worst dips and that is only amplified with the much higher vehicle weight. I have run it at -20mm a lot because that's the first click on the Llams switch but it's only best for smoother roads with less big dips. By dips I don't mean pot holes or gravel road stuff, I mean smooth dips that are long and deep enough you feel the huge weight shift.

Also, of note is the alignment was able to be right at the limit but still in spec.

Thanks for the info, it's appreciated and I'm sure there are tons of people looking at this thread that need the help. To comment on your post, my 35"s fit in the wheel wells when the system is aired down and sitting on the SYA stops. However... there's some rubbing of the already heavily trimmed fender liners at full lock. My truck is running 1" wheel spacers but that's the cost of doing business when you want to fit a 13" wide and 35" tall tire (I actually got kicked out of my local automated car wash because the tires didn't fit in the tracks!). Previous owner addressed your slider comment; the sliders have been cut on both ends to help fit the larger tires. Perhaps one day I'll size down, and in which case I can see myself downsizing to a 285/70/18, but for the time being I'm going to keep the current setup. The truck has already been modified to fit the tires, so why not take advantage? Again, only reason I'd consider downsizing is to reduce wear on the drivetrain. The 35" have a habit of absolutely destroying CVs and other misc components. There's a loud ticking from the front left, which I believe is a wheel bearing since the front CVs were replaced less than 3000 miles ago.

 

[Jwestpro]

Thanks for the info, it's appreciated and I'm sure there are tons of people looking at this thread that need the help. To comment on your post, my 35"s fit in the wheel wells when the system is aired down and sitting on the SYA stops. However... there's some rubbing of the already heavily trimmed fender liners at full lock. My truck is running 1" wheel spacers but that's the cost of doing business when you want to fit a 13" wide and 35" tall tire (I actually got kicked out of my local automated car wash because the tires didn't fit in the tracks!). Previous owner addressed your slider comment; the sliders have been cut on both ends to help fit the larger tires. Perhaps one day I'll size down, and in which case I can see myself downsizing to a 285/70/18, but for the time being I'm going to keep the current setup. The truck has already been modified to fit the tires, so why not take advantage? Again, only reason I'd consider downsizing is to reduce wear on the drivetrain. The 35" have a habit of absolutely destroying CVs and other misc components. There's a loud ticking from the front left, which I believe is a wheel bearing since the front CVs were replaced less than 3000 miles ago.

mid love to see a photo of those “fit in the wheel wells”. Seriously I want to see because I cannot envision how it honestly “fits” without being able to tuck up under the top of the wheel arch.... unless I’m completely forgetting that my test was done without the strut spacers on.

still, the width of that tire sticking out, I don’t see how it can have true full movements when it’s sticking out at least 2” wider than mine. Could you post a couple photos of how the wheel arch/fender liner is changed underneath? I know it’s all that crap where it merges w the arch that is the issue.

see this photo? 285/70-18, which is 1” narrower, no wheel spacer, but now I cannot recal if I had the strut spacers on or not LOL

 

[Jwestpro]

Here it is definitely on the strut spacers. Obviously the front wheel travel is much less though.

 

[soflorovers]

mid love to see a photo of those “fit in the wheel wells”. Seriously I want to see because I cannot envision how it honestly “fits” without being able to tuck up under the top of the wheel arch.... unless I’m completely forgetting that my test was done without the strut spacers on.

still, the width of that tire sticking out, I don’t see how it can have true full movements when it’s sticking out at least 2” wider than mine. Could you post a couple photos of how the wheel arch/fender liner is changed underneath? I know it’s all that crap where it merges w the arch that is the issue.

see this photo? 285/70-18, which is 1” narrower, no wheel spacer, but now I cannot recal if I had the strut spacers on or not LOL

View attachment 550117

Here you go. Left front is at full compression, or very close to it

 

[Jwestpro]

Here you go. Left front is at full compression, or very close to it

That bumper is great! The ARB is a primary contact point where yours is not even there seeing as how it's tucked much further in.

Now let's see the rear which has a lot more travel built in. You must also have the sliders cut back right? That's where it would be impossible on mine. These sliders are annoying in some ways but they are the stoutest out there.

 

[soflorovers]

That bumper is great! The ARB is a primary contact point where yours is not even there seeing as how it's tucked much further in.

Now let's see the rear which has a lot more travel built in. You must also have the sliders cut back right? That's where it would be impossible on mine. These sliders are annoying in some ways but they are the stoutest out there.

Can confirm, sliders have been cut sloppily. While I understand it was necessary to cut them, the previous owner did the cuts in such a manner that it looks like Jaws (the Bond villain) literally took a bite out of them. I'm gonna take a grinder to the previous cuts and fix them. The rears do make contact on occasion with the rear arch trim. Fortunately, I have a bag of bodywork clips for all the plastic trim.

 

[Jwestpro]

... looks like Jaws (the Bond villain) literally took a bite out of them.

LOL
You may or may not have seen someone else with the ones I have which were by a short lived team to build something when literally nothing else existed yet called Rover Specialties. Not a bad name and a solid as hell design with better than expected fabrication quality.

Each side is 100 lbs.... I remind myself that the hell they cause on body roll at 80 mph actually helps pull the center of gravity down on the trail.

These not only extend underneath to overlap the frame, end to end, but also mount to the two body mounting spots as well as all the sill bolts. The visible offset side tubes and connectors are fully welded and the interior is also gusseted. The sill mount points are also linked by a welded bar in order to distribute force more evenly. They are for sure overkill from a purist engineering perspective but you can use the side rail to lift the vehicle with a High-lift or teeter on a rock with no bending at all. Each end is boxed in and they butt almost against the transmission skid plate to create a continuous covered area.

I had them blasted, galvanized, then cured for a few months, then industrial powder coated by a place that does mostly architectural components and outdoor stuff. Had a few sets of wheels done there too and since 2010, nothing has chipped or flaked despite abuse.

As for fender liners and wheels arches, I have been pondering what to simply replace the entire liner with such as rubber sheeting. I think you'd want to protect any wiring from rocks and crap being flown up at over 100 mph when on the highway but also just constant road grit. The liners probably also help to deflect some road noise from the cabin.

I really like that bumper, what or who is it again?