2008 Silverado 1500 Crew Cab

[eyemgh]

I have a 2008 Silverado with a FWC Raven Shell. It has 140,000 miles and is still on its OEM shocks/struts. I'm not interested in lifting it or upsizing tires. In fact, I just bought some new Wildpeaks, ever so slightly upsized so that I could get an E rated version. I'm thinking about just putting Bilstein 4600s on it, because at that mileage, as nice as it still is, I'm not sure a big dollar suspension upgrade makes sense. I'd like it to be a little more compliant on washboard and potholes, but still need lateral rigidity for the camper. Any other ideas or would you just replace the originals with something newer and nicer? Thanks in advance!

 

[jonathon]

I run 4600s on my firewood truck and take it all over the forest. Air down a bit and it handles washboard nicely.

 

[eyemgh]

That's what I like to hear!

Speaking of airing down, what pressures do you run loaded? I'm figuring that out as we go. It's a fine balance between ride and durability/longevity. I've been running 45/53, but we carry a 12V Viair all the time, so we can potentially put them where we want them when we want them if we just set a few minutes aside.

 

[SoTxAg06]

Bilstein or Eibach. I’ve now had both. Had 5100s and then 5160s on a 2500. Both performed well, but I preferred the 5160s on that truck. Now I have a 2019 1500 with the eibach pro kit. It’s a night and day difference between these and the stock rancho branded junk.


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[eyemgh]

I considered it, but I'm reticent to invest in 5160s on a vehicle that already has 140,000 miles. The Bilstein tech told me that the guts and performance of the regular 5100 (nothe the full coilover 5160) and the 4600 are the exact same and was pushing me in the direction of the 4600. The only difference is in tube material and the ability to lift, which I'm not doing. So I guess the big question is, if a truck isn't going to be lifted and upsized in tires, how much better would the 5160s be? The vehicle is only worth $10k. I'm hoping the 4600s are the biggest bang for the buck upgrade over the current 140,000 mile OEM setup. Fingers crossed.

 

[XJLI]

Go with the 4600s. If you still have money burning a hole in your pocket, changing out the factory rear leaf setup for something more custom would make more of a difference. I have 4600s on my 2005 with almost 100k on them and they still rebound like they were new.

 

[eyemgh]

Go with the 4600s. If you still have money burning a hole in your pocket, changing out the factory rear leaf setup for something more custom would make more of a difference. I have 4600s on my 2005 with almost 100k on them and they still rebound like they were new.

Good to hear! I have a Hellwig spring in the back already. It's not squatty or rolly at all. I'm just looking for better rebound without being bouncy and having more invested in suspension than the vehicle is worth. Thanks!

 

[jonathon]

You will not regret the 4600s

 

[Ivan]

I considered it, but I'm reticent to invest in 5160s on a vehicle that already has 140,000 miles. The Bilstein tech told me that the guts and performance of the regular 5100 (nothe the full coilover 5160) and the 4600 are the exact same and was pushing me in the direction of the 4600. The only difference is in tube material and the ability to lift, which I'm not doing. So I guess the big question is, if a truck isn't going to be lifted and upsized in tires, how much better would the 5160s be? The vehicle is only worth $10k. I'm hoping the 4600s are the biggest bang for the buck upgrade over the current 140,000 mile OEM setup. Fingers crossed.

I wouldn't worry about the cost of the vehicle. I'm getting 5160's for my Z71, and it has 350k miles...

 

[eyemgh]

I believe the 5160s would probably be a bit better, but given that there’s no lift and stock sized tires, I didn’t think the performance bump would justify the cost. The Bilstein guy didn’t either. His words, not mine, “the 4600 was designed exactly for what you are wanting to do.” It can’t be worse than the 140k stockers!

 

[Ivan]

That's 100% true. Anything brand name is probably light years ahead of worn out stock shocks.

 

[1stDeuce]

If you want it a little more compliant (soft) for washboard and pothiles, you're going the wrong way looking at new shocks, and REALLY the wrong way looking at Bilstein's...

I have 5100's on my Jeep, and 4600's on my truck. Bilstein shocks (digressive valving) are GREAT for handling, and for running fast with a limited amount of suspension travel, but the valving is horrible for washboard, expansion joints, and cobble roads.

For best ride on washboard, you really want a progressive shock, but they're hard to come by, and with limited travel, you'll be pushing through it fairly easily if you over-cook a bump. King and Fox tend to valve fairly linear, which is still better than Bilstein's digressive valving for washboard or rough roads. Your stock shocks are probably fairly linear as well, but GM typically likes to use more compression damping, with the rebound damping typically very soft. This works OK until you try to go fast, and truck starts hopping whenever you compress the suspension...

Good article to read and understand: https://accutuneoffroad.com/articles/digressive-vs-linear-vs-progressive-pistons-shock-valving/

So what do I recommend? If your current shocks aren't leaking, then they are probably working as well as they ever did, and ANY replacement shock is likely to make your ride LESS compliant over washboard. My 180k truck with stock shocks rides WAY better than my truck with 4600's on our rough/washboarded private road. And it rides and handles just fine loaded or empty down the road too. In my experience, shocks don't really degrade much until they start leaking fluid. And FWIW, stiff shocks don't "break in" after a while. They stay stiff and you get used to it.

If you must replace them due to leaks, I'd try a set of Fox shocks. Their fairly linear damping is probably the best bet for good rough road performance.

Also, I can tell you that no matter what shocks you run, NOTHING works as well for washboard as airing down to around half street pressure. Both my vehicles with Bilstein's have OBA, and I will probably wear the threads out of the valve cores at some point, as I air down and back up A LOT.

 

[eyemgh]

If you want it a little more compliant (soft) for washboard and pothiles, you're going the wrong way looking at new shocks, and REALLY the wrong way looking at Bilstein's...

I have 5100's on my Jeep, and 4600's on my truck. Bilstein shocks (digressive valving) are GREAT for handling, and for running fast with a limited amount of suspension travel, but the valving is horrible for washboard, expansion joints, and cobble roads.

For best ride on washboard, you really want a progressive shock, but they're hard to come by, and with limited travel, you'll be pushing through it fairly easily if you over-cook a bump. King and Fox tend to valve fairly linear, which is still better than Bilstein's digressive valving for washboard or rough roads. Your stock shocks are probably fairly linear as well, but GM typically likes to use more compression damping, with the rebound damping typically very soft. This works OK until you try to go fast, and truck starts hopping whenever you compress the suspension...

Good article to read and understand: https://accutuneoffroad.com/articles/digressive-vs-linear-vs-progressive-pistons-shock-valving/

So what do I recommend? If your current shocks aren't leaking, then they are probably working as well as they ever did, and ANY replacement shock is likely to make your ride LESS compliant over washboard. My 180k truck with stock shocks rides WAY better than my truck with 4600's on our rough/washboarded private road. And it rides and handles just fine loaded or empty down the road too. In my experience, shocks don't really degrade much until they start leaking fluid. And FWIW, stiff shocks don't "break in" after a while. They stay stiff and you get used to it.

If you must replace them due to leaks, I'd try a set of Fox shocks. Their fairly linear damping is probably the best bet for good rough road performance.

Also, I can tell you that no matter what shocks you run, NOTHING works as well for washboard as airing down to around half street pressure. Both my vehicles with Bilstein's have OBA, and I will probably wear the threads out of the valve cores at some point, as I air down and back up A LOT.

Thanks! I'll do some reading. It may not matter in the end anyway because the Fox options are pretty spendy.

I have a compressor. What's your method for dropping pressure? ARB? I can use the gauge on my Viair, but it's pretty slow. I also wish it had a lock for airing up. I'll have to get a clamp. The duty cycle on the 450 will go forever, but it's slower than others.

 

[1stDeuce]

Agreed on the spendy Fox shocks. That's why I ended up with Bilstein, after trying some Gabriel Ultra shocks. In the end, the Gabriels probably rode about the same, but there was no way I was going back to them after spending $330 on shocks. I just air down for rough roads. I'd like to try a set of KYB's, but can't see spending even more on shocks. The Bilstein's do handle the camper nice, and when my wife launched out of a 20mph paved arroyo at about 50 in Baja, the truck landed really smooth, even with the camper in the back and motorcycles on both ends.

I normally air down by pulling the valve core. Get a core tool that looks like a screw driver instead of the stupid T-shaped multi tool thingy. It's really easy, and nothing is faster. If you're near sea level, most valve stems will whistle at just above 15psi in my experience. Doesn't seem to work here at 7000', so I use a gauge to check as I think I'm getting close. When I get 1 or 2psi above the target, I push the core back in and seat it. Usually close enough I don't have to adjust, after doing it countless times.

I do carry extra cores (and valve stems, actually...) in the glove box, just in case I accidentally send one into orbit, or drop it, but it hasn't happened yet.

I have a clip-on chuck on the hose in the truck. You can buy them everywhere. The little Viair 400c takes a few minutes per tire, and I have no patience to hold the chuck that long. The Jeep has a converted a/c compressor, and I can air up almost as fast as I air down if I idle it up a bit, so no worries about a clip-on there.