2011 Ram 1500 - "The Basics" Build

[Oddity]

If I recall correctly, the non-reinforced fiberglass Leer toppers are only rated for around 200lbs, the RCC with reinforcement is rated at 400lbs. Not to say you can't go over, but I'd be careful pushing it in excess. Most of the rooftop tents I've seen are around 120-180lbs, with about half the weight being supported by the ladder when set up. Doesn't leave a whole lot of wiggle room. Mind you, many people have been doing 2 person RTTs on toppers with no issues, so it may not be a problem. Would hate to crack the fiberglass though..

My co-worker and I were discussing full length 'contractor' roof racks, with external arms going off the bed sides around the topper. The only issue there is that most modern toppers have a bit of a lip where it overlaps the body on the sides of the bed, not sure how the supports would work.. See below..

 

[drewactual]

I haven't done it yet, but I've got a bag of parts ready (somewhere) for when I DO do it... but.....

my rack penetrates the topper in only four points as opposed to six, which would have been the better route had I not hatched this plan, but they come through with a single 5/8" grade eight bolt that full threads (not a blank shaft near the head; these were surprisingly hard to find!) ... anyway...

I'm going to bend a bar of at least 3/4" if solid, or 3" if pipe/tubing with decent gauge walls, and attach 90* bend I have, with a 5/8" bung in them aligned to where the rack bolts come through. I hesitated doing this originally because I wasn't sure if I wanted to go side to side with a single center running cross bar, or front to back with two cross bars.. and honestly, I'm still not sure...

I saw a guy sometime back who had a box that was on a slider hinge affixed snug to the inside ceiling of his topper, and with a hasp/lock in the back... it was maybe 3.5" deep, and maybe 3.5' wide and as long as could fit in his bed, which was likely 5.5' worth? anyway, it was carpeted to match the finished bed, and had three compartments inside.. he could securely hold his rifle/shotguns (at least four) as well as a bow on the other side... he could hold fishing rods, too... it was a pretty slick way to secure those things, and it would be difficult to even see that they were there in the first place... this is why I haven't decided which way to run those bars... I want to do it too, but don't want to interfere with that future mod.

anyway, with those supports under there, I could confidently place in excess of 1200# up there 'statically', as in, not moving.. There is zero chance I'd drive with more than 4~500# worth...

 

[jerstw]

I have looked at the rack set up such as that white Ram has and would give it serious consideration if I thought this 1500 was my "forever truck"...still want a 6.5' bed someday. If my Leer is only rated for 200lbs, even if they are being conservative, perhaps I am better going back to original plan of sleeping set up in the topper and cargo box on roof to provide room to actually sleep in the bed when we are loaded up for a week or two.

Drew - So you're looking to do an internal support rack of sorts? Cool idea, would love to see that when you get that in progress....and I am still very envious of your rack setup.

 

[drewactual]

yessir.. internal invisible supports is precisely what i'm doing...

there are some things that have to happen first- #1 is I need to replace the drivers side glass with a blank, so I can introduce a slider panel or a gate large enough to fill the aux fuel tank in there- it's a PITA to crawl up in the bed and top it off- given I don't have to do it but once a month and a half or so, but still... then I want to at least design/template out the overhead storage compartment I spoke of, and THEN I can install the internal supports... but then there is this: do I want that internal support attached to the rails of the bed or all the way to the deck? or, a hybrid?

anyway, I'm hijacking this thread.. apologies!!!

 

[Oddity]

I've thought about internal supports as well, I think going right down to the bed would be easiest considering the way most of these fiberglass toppers sit on the rails. Downfall being that you lose some internal space.

Not to mention rooftop tents are EXPENSIVE! $2-3K for a decent one.

 

[drewactual]

I've thought about internal supports as well, I think going right down to the bed would be easiest considering the way most of these fiberglass toppers sit on the rails. Downfall being that you lose some internal space.

Not to mention rooftop tents are EXPENSIVE! $2-3K for a decent one.

which is the funny part.... I could care less about a tent- I sleep out in the open usually, atop that thing sometimes, or with a hammock stretched between two solid points.. that's the ol' jarhead coming out of me I reckon... inclimate weather means I'm under the cap....

If I go with the smaller solid bars, I can reclaim a lot of the lost space i'd lose with tubes- they could be contoured to follow the shell all the way to the rail... That's likely what I'll end up doing... the beauty of the system, is that i can retain the rack by using a sleeve spacer the length the cap is thick, and still use the rack when the topper is off the truck. That's almost as big a motivator as the strength it offers.

 

[jerstw]

Drew - Are you intending to bore the tube diameter through your topper or do it more of a plate set up...meaning steel plate to the holes you already have in the roof of the topper, welded and supported to downward tubes and tied into the bedrail? That I might be willing to try, not sure I love the idea of boring any big holes in my topper roof. And agree on the "sleep out in the open" however my two boys (8 and 11 years old) don't seem to be willing to do that just yet, soon I hope, and the wife thinks staying in a US Forest Service cabin in Wyoming is "roughing it".

Oddity - Yes, the decent tents are a lot of $$$$. Nice thing is it wouldn't be limited to just one vehicle (would move to the next truck). When I was searching last night it appears about a year ago there was a killer deal on Tepui Tents on one of the forums...I always miss on the really good group buys.

 

[drewactual]

yessir, you nailed it.. the topper will be sandwiched between two plates, one (top plate) which has a 5/8" grade 8 bolt through it, and the other plate which has a 5/8" bung welded onto it and a 90ish* bend of pipe/rod below it... there will only be four 5/8" holes through the topper... no more drilling it... that was a nerve racking day braced by shots of pappy van winkle to pull that off!!

 

[jerstw]

Good idea...I'll let you go first and then copy you :bowdown:

I was too afraid the day I drilled into my top to have shots prior but the bottle of Prairie vodka was significantly emptied right afterwards.

 

[hovenator]

I can totally understand the price point on the bumper. I don't think you could go wrong with either of them! Also, do you know what ring position your front Bilsteins are on? I have mine cranked to 2.75 (top ring) and was wondering what height the dealer uses.

 

[jerstw]

Mine are also set at the "2.8" per the instructions that come with the Mopar kit. I did specifically tell the dealer to max them out as I needed every bit of clearance for the 35x12.50R17 KO2's. I am going to pick up a heat gun this weekend and fix the one spot on the driver side fender liner where they rub. Thinking I can heat it up just enough to soften the plastic going to put an oven mitt behind it to protect the wiring harness that is behind it and push it to be mostly flat. Once that is done I should be rub-free...I am still shocked these tires fit as well as they do with this small of a suspension / lift.

 

[jerstw]

Finished product.
View attachment 314799

Biohzrd - Were you running the front diff skidplate and if so were you able to keep that installed with the Kore bumper?

 

[hovenator]

They do have big wheel openings. I am running 34in. Duratracs on my stock rims without any issues. I have a factory skid plate and crossmember for the transfer case if your interested?

 

[jerstw]

Thanks Hovenator. I may send you a PM on the t-case skid. I was looking at the factory ones but am also checking into what it might take to have a local metal fab shop make some based on cardboard mock-ups. Once I see how much they would charge that will determine Mopar vs. 'homemade'.

 

[jerstw]

Not sure if this one belongs in a build thread or recovery gear but here you go...got the HiLift Lift-Mate LM-100 today. Based on the quick driveway test my 11 year old helped me with I am ashamed I never bought this before with my previous vehicles. Works great with the Method NV wheels as it hooks in securely and the coated hooks, for now at least, have a thick enough coating to not scratch the wheels up. And yes, the BFG is off the ground about an inch in the photo, the kid felt like Thor since he lifted the truck.