Agreed. Many people go overkill and overboard on their suspension and wheels. a small lift with 33" will get you Everywhere in a 2 door JK. Plus, better drivability, milage, and less wear on other parts. My Jeep goes EVERYWHERE I want it to, I don't rock crawl so that's why theres no need for 35/37's and 4-6 of lift. A mild 2" lift with 33's and your good. The suspension you have on your rig now with 33s is damn near perfect for adventure style off roading.
2012 JK Sport 2 Door Overland Build
- Thread starter JPontheMountain
- Start date
codesertrat
Geoff
Nice Jeep!
Here's a link to my 2 door JK:
http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/threads/139998-CODesertRat-2012-Wrangler-JK
33" tires have been fine for me with the 4wheeling that I do.
I second the need for some type of rocker protection. The JK's hang much lower than previous CJ's, YJ's, and TJ's. I've scraped / whacked my sliders on a few rocks. No doubt they have saved the body, as major damage can result from a minor rock encounter.
I also think steering stabilizer relocation is a must - that darn thing is a rock magnet hanging down there.
Here's a link to my 2 door JK:
http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/threads/139998-CODesertRat-2012-Wrangler-JK
33" tires have been fine for me with the 4wheeling that I do.
I second the need for some type of rocker protection. The JK's hang much lower than previous CJ's, YJ's, and TJ's. I've scraped / whacked my sliders on a few rocks. No doubt they have saved the body, as major damage can result from a minor rock encounter.
I also think steering stabilizer relocation is a must - that darn thing is a rock magnet hanging down there.
Whatever the question , the answer is always an ARB fridge with bacon 
For "overlanding" s simple 2.5 lift with some good 33' is a pretty good combination. Its pretty much still stock and all the components wouldn't need reinforcement with added weight of 35, etc.. as codesertrat has suggested a good pair of rocker guards is a good investment. I like the rubi rails with ACE sliders make a robust platform.
For "overlanding" s simple 2.5 lift with some good 33' is a pretty good combination. Its pretty much still stock and all the components wouldn't need reinforcement with added weight of 35, etc.. as codesertrat has suggested a good pair of rocker guards is a good investment. I like the rubi rails with ACE sliders make a robust platform.
rubicon91
Explorer
OP if you have an auto transmission you are going to need an AEV procal or something along those lines to get your shift points back in place if you lift and put 35's on. If you have a manual it is not as much needed but speedo and all will be off. You definitely will need to look at your gears. You either have the 3.21's or 3.73 and more than likely you have the 321s. Do you still have the window sticker it will tell you. If you have 321's you will not be happy with the power with 35's. I actually had 321's with a manual and 33's and while tolerable was nowhere near ideal. Now I have 456's with 35's and it is fantastic. I am definitely with the opinions of others on here if you plan on going out by yourself exploring a winch should be moved to phase 1 over the back up lights and fuel caddy. Recovery tools should also be in phase 1 as if you get stuck and are exploring alone it is whatever you have in the Jeep. Here are a couple pics of mine. First was 3 inch lift and 33's and second 35's now and 3 inch lift. If I had to do it again I would be at the 2.5 inch lift as you are looking and 33's on those AEV rims you have in Phase 1. I love that look. Anyways good luck with your build.
Attachments
JPontheMountain
Observer
I agree with all party's on the rock sliders. It totally slipped my mind in the original post. I've been planning on going with the OEM Rubi Rock Rails for the time being. It's challenging finding them used for the 2door.
I have a lot to learn about gears. What do upgrades generally cost? 75% of the time, this is going to be a daily driver, does that impact what gears would be optimal?
http://jeep.custhelp.com/
select equipment listing from the left side then on that page put in your VIN where indicated.
JPontheMountain
Observer
Interesting. Good to know. Do you have a link to one of those threads?
I saw it mentioned in a couple places. Here is one that will probably give you the info you need.
http://wayalife.com/showthread.php?8120-JKUR-4-Door-Rubicon-Rock-Slider-Install-On-A-2-Door-JK-Sport
Cascade Wanderer
Adventurer
4.10's, manual and 33's has been a terrific combination...
Your 2-door is set up differently with the auto. I'd think 4.10's would still work great. Test drive a Rubi with factory 4.10's and see what you think.
CW
herecomestony
Observer
Your Jeep looks gorgeous!
Call Of Duty MW3
New member
I have a 2012 2 door automatic Rubicon that I bought used with a 2.5" Teraflex lift and 35" Nitto Trail Grapplers. It has 4:10 gears and the 3.6 liter which has plenty of power with this set up (of course I also have the rubicon transfer case which is geared much lower). The shift points were off when I purchased it and then I got a Super Chips Flash Paq which adjusted the shift points and corrected the speed odometer. I am pretty sure that with 33" tires you cold probably get away with 3.73 gears with the 3.6 liter engine especially if your Jeep is a daily driver.
As far as upgrading gears a economical way to do it would be to pick up someone's stock 3.73 or 4.10 gears when they upgrade. The stock 3.73 gears that come with the towing package also have a limited slip in the rear differential.
As far as upgrading gears a economical way to do it would be to pick up someone's stock 3.73 or 4.10 gears when they upgrade. The stock 3.73 gears that come with the towing package also have a limited slip in the rear differential.
codesertrat
Geoff
Gearing also depends on your altitude. Where do you live?
The western mountain states like Colorado and Utah (4000 - 14000 ft elevation) require much lower gearing (numerically higher) due to the horsepower loss of a naturally aspirated engine (3% loss / 1000 ft above sea level). The 285hp Pentastar V6 is only 240hp here in Denver, and less than 200hp climbing over Vail Pass. With 33" tires, my 3.73 gears are just adequate in my opinion for here in Colorado.
Back east where elevation is rarely above 1000 ft, it seems many are perfectly happy with 35" tires and 3.73 gears.
The western mountain states like Colorado and Utah (4000 - 14000 ft elevation) require much lower gearing (numerically higher) due to the horsepower loss of a naturally aspirated engine (3% loss / 1000 ft above sea level). The 285hp Pentastar V6 is only 240hp here in Denver, and less than 200hp climbing over Vail Pass. With 33" tires, my 3.73 gears are just adequate in my opinion for here in Colorado.
Back east where elevation is rarely above 1000 ft, it seems many are perfectly happy with 35" tires and 3.73 gears.