2013 Chevy Express 3500 10' Cutaway Build
- Thread starter MStudt
- Start date
I hope to have my own cnc next year. Fingers crossed my better half is still on board with it.
Mike
Over the weekend I was able to install the lvp flooring in the cargo area, and add a little aluminum j-trim & angle to help finish it off a little. The j-trim really added a clean look around the door opening, and the angle helped to close in the side some.
In addition to that I started to assemble a small storage area that'll be installed between the bed, and the door. This will house our Dometic toilet, and allow for a little bit of additional storage.
Lastly, I started prepping the wood for the ceiling. I went with blue pine or beetle kill pine. I love the way this wood looks, but it's going to take quite a bit of prep work before I can hang the pieces. The material is 5/8", 5-1/2" in width, and tongue & groove. I'm currently in the process of cleaning out all the beetle channels, and filling those with black hot melt wood filler. Once the filling is complete I'll have to finish sand everything before sealing the wood. I'll be using a shellac on the side facing the metal roof, and a poly on the visible face. Installation will consist of rivet nuts in the rood ribs, and stainless black oxide FHCS recessed into the wood.
In addition to that I started to assemble a small storage area that'll be installed between the bed, and the door. This will house our Dometic toilet, and allow for a little bit of additional storage.
Lastly, I started prepping the wood for the ceiling. I went with blue pine or beetle kill pine. I love the way this wood looks, but it's going to take quite a bit of prep work before I can hang the pieces. The material is 5/8", 5-1/2" in width, and tongue & groove. I'm currently in the process of cleaning out all the beetle channels, and filling those with black hot melt wood filler. Once the filling is complete I'll have to finish sand everything before sealing the wood. I'll be using a shellac on the side facing the metal roof, and a poly on the visible face. Installation will consist of rivet nuts in the rood ribs, and stainless black oxide FHCS recessed into the wood.
I designed the kitchen cabinet earlier this week in a bit of a rush, but it turned out pretty good. The main back panel is 18mm ply with black laminate on the front and phenolic backer on the back. The dividers and cross braces are all 12mm raw ply. The top if going to be butcher block with a bottom mount sink, and a 2-burner propane cooktop. The narrow side on the right will be full of drawers, and the left will have a couple of doors to access the plumbing.
Well, looks like I've forgotten to post for a bit. I don't have anything complete that I've started on, but forward progress is still progress.
The toilet hider and side storage area are just about complete. I have the floor pan drawing for the toilet but need to have it cut, bent, and powder coated. Once I have that back I can get it mounted with some Accuride locking draw slides. Last thing will be making a door to the cover the front, and figure out some kind of a wheel system to support the front when it's supporting weight.
The cooler storage is in the same boat. I have the floor pan drawn but need to have it cut, bend, and powder coated so I can install it. I also need to find a solution for the doors on this, but that shouldn't be very difficult.
The shelf and counter only need to be sanded, and sealed. I ended up using butcher block for both, and pick them up at my local Home Depot. The shelf will end up with some kind of a small lip on it, and I'm also going to cut a thin piece to act as a back splash.
Flooring is also installed.
The toilet hider and side storage area are just about complete. I have the floor pan drawing for the toilet but need to have it cut, bent, and powder coated. Once I have that back I can get it mounted with some Accuride locking draw slides. Last thing will be making a door to the cover the front, and figure out some kind of a wheel system to support the front when it's supporting weight.
The cooler storage is in the same boat. I have the floor pan drawn but need to have it cut, bend, and powder coated so I can install it. I also need to find a solution for the doors on this, but that shouldn't be very difficult.
The shelf and counter only need to be sanded, and sealed. I ended up using butcher block for both, and pick them up at my local Home Depot. The shelf will end up with some kind of a small lip on it, and I'm also going to cut a thin piece to act as a back splash.
Flooring is also installed.
We debated a fridge many times but ultimately talked ourselves out of it every time. I can see the benefit, but truly think the cooler will get us by for the time being. We always pack food for trips like we're going backpacking, and that doesn't consist of much cold food.
Mike
Here's an update since I've been slacking at it.
I have a lot going on right now, and I'll try my best to recap everything. The ceiling is just about finished, and I only need 2 more pieces of blue pine to go up. I'm going to hold off on that until I get all of my wiring complete, and make sure that I'm 100% leak-free on the roof. I installed a Step-Above fold-down step that makes getting in and out a breeze. This has adjustable legs for uneven ground and folds up into the door jam when stowed away. We were having issues with our paint of choice not wanting to be durable enough. So we design a sticker and cover the front bulkhead and rear doors with them. These are very durable and easy enough to remove should some get damaged. I also received my Fiamma F45S awning today and was able to mount it to the roof rack mounts that I design with ease.
I have a lot going on right now, and I'll try my best to recap everything. The ceiling is just about finished, and I only need 2 more pieces of blue pine to go up. I'm going to hold off on that until I get all of my wiring complete, and make sure that I'm 100% leak-free on the roof. I installed a Step-Above fold-down step that makes getting in and out a breeze. This has adjustable legs for uneven ground and folds up into the door jam when stowed away. We were having issues with our paint of choice not wanting to be durable enough. So we design a sticker and cover the front bulkhead and rear doors with them. These are very durable and easy enough to remove should some get damaged. I also received my Fiamma F45S awning today and was able to mount it to the roof rack mounts that I design with ease.
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Holy crap it's been a while. Here are some updates, build pictures, and adventure pictures. I still have a list of things that need to be completed now that spring is rolling in. Here's my to-do list for now:
*Front bumper
*Rear bumper with swingout(s)
*New water storage tank location
*Under vehicle propane
*More insulation in ceiling
*Insulated front cubby panel
*Insulated window covers
*Hot water
*New kitchen cabinet with more drawers
*Front bumper
*Rear bumper with swingout(s)
*New water storage tank location
*Under vehicle propane
*More insulation in ceiling
*Insulated front cubby panel
*Insulated window covers
*Hot water
*New kitchen cabinet with more drawers
A couple of weeks ago I started on the rear bumper and tire carrier. I'm reducing the overall depth of the rear step by 5" and shortening it on each side by roughly 12". First I removed the old flaking thread plate, spreader and got everything prepped for the new crossmember.
Next up was welding in a new 2" x 3" x .120 crossmember with a 2" receiver hitch. The receiver hitch will only be used for hauling our bike and never used for towing anything. So I wasn't overly concerned about the size of the material. I made some side plate reinforcements from 7 ga CRS that ran the length of the dog legs and wrapped around the rear onto the new crossmember. The top plate is a galvanized perforated stair thread that uses carriage bolts run though connector plates.
Over the weekend I was able to start building the swingout tire carrier, and almost finished it. The carrier hinge is a 4xInnovations, and all the tubing for the swingout is 1-3/4" x .120 DOM. I also purchase the tire mounting plate from Ruff Stuff, and the a compression latch from SouthCo going on. Building this also gave me an excuse to use the JD2 vertical bender again.
I still need to design and build a mount for a AT Overland Equipment jerry can holder, and design a mount for a Zarges aluminum case. The aluminum box will serve as a small storage area, and a small work surface when opened.
I still need to design and build a mount for a AT Overland Equipment jerry can holder, and design a mount for a Zarges aluminum case. The aluminum box will serve as a small storage area, and a small work surface when opened.
I try extremely hard to make sure to double check. On the bumper build I actually bent the tire hoop starting with last bend rather than the first, and the to improvise.
Mike
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