I don't think you have to go to the extent of having one of those guys install it. There should be plenty of VAN upfitters in your area that install these into contractor vans. Many contractors work out of their vans sometimes or they have generators installed, or secondary fuel tanks for extra range. I'm sure they drop tanks all the time. Just like this upfitter installed one for this contractor: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hUKeprinFBI
2014 Express AWD cargo van PNW 4 season camper
- Thread starter iridewheelies
- Start date
I don't think you have to go to the extent of having one of those guys install it. There should be plenty of VAN upfitters in your area that install these into contractor vans. Many contractors work out of their vans sometimes or they have generators installed, or secondary fuel tanks for extra range. I'm sure they drop tanks all the time. Just like this upfitter installed one for this contractor: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hUKeprinFBI
Nice thread. I'm slowly building an 06 GMC Savana AWD just to the north of you.
I did the Webasto install on my old Quigley 7.3 diesel E350. For that application, the system used a pickup tube that mounted in the top flange of the fuel tank's sending unit. to install I dropped the tank, pulled out the sending unit and drilled a hole in the stainless flange to mount the webasto hardware.
I'm concerned that mounting the fuel pump off the return line might be problematic. Have you seen anyone else do this? Mostly wondering if the return line will draw from the lower portion of the tank?
I did the Webasto install on my old Quigley 7.3 diesel E350. For that application, the system used a pickup tube that mounted in the top flange of the fuel tank's sending unit. to install I dropped the tank, pulled out the sending unit and drilled a hole in the stainless flange to mount the webasto hardware.
I'm concerned that mounting the fuel pump off the return line might be problematic. Have you seen anyone else do this? Mostly wondering if the return line will draw from the lower portion of the tank?
iridewheelies
Adventurer
I haven't seen anyone do it, I got the idea from a webasto install manual I found online.
It could very well work then. I looked for an exploded assembly view of the fuel system on your van but didn't find anything but a few pics of fuel sending units. If you don't find anything definitive, one option might be to drop by the dealer parts department and have them pull up a schematic, or look at a sending unit off the shelf to verify the configuration of the return line.
Mwilliamshs
Explorer
Are you sure have a return line? Most GMs have been returnless with a PWM fuel pump for a decade or so I think. If you have one: The return is at approximately fuel rail pressure which would require that either your heater runs around 60 psi or a heck of a check valve to prevent the van's efi from pumping fuel into it instead of the tank. Using the heater with engine running would then either be impossible or at least complicated by the check valve. I don't know anything special about anything webasto or gm related, these are just my gut feelings after reading this excellent thread.
iridewheelies
Adventurer
Ok, I just found a schematic showing only a feed line and a vapor line coming from the pump flange. I guess I'll need to install a separate, dedicated fuel pickup.
Page 77
http://gmupfitter.com/files/media/photo/454/2014_GH_Van_071713.pdf
This might turn into a big pain in the butt but I don't care. I need a furnace to camp in the winter and I didn't want to deal with propane so I'm going to make this work.
iridewheelies
Adventurer
Mine is the bottom right one
Mwilliamshs
Explorer
Separate fuel tank is probably more trouble than adding a pickup to the existing tank. Have to add tank and brackets, filler, vent, etc. Been there and done it on other rigs and it's a pain. Motorhome generators use the existing tank for good reason: they're big and they're already there. I've also added a pickup line to an existing tank (big welder/generator on pipeline trucks) and plumbed in auxillary in-bed tanks with gravity fill on trucks (extra fuel capacity), and both are way way easier than adding a separate tank under a rig. Think about where'd you put the gas cap first, and work backwards from there on where to place the tank, keeping in mind it must fill (quickly) by gravity from the gas station hose. Probably the simplest thing to do from my experience is to drop the stock tank, pull the fuel pump hanger assembly (the whole thing from inside the tank) and take it to an old school radiator/tank repair shop. Tell them what you need. Betcha Webasto specs fuel line diameter so that should tell you what size pickup you need added. Looks like plenty of available real estate in the diagrams you posted. The shop will drill a hole, add the hardline pickup (preferably in the OE sump so it's always in the fuel supply but above the OE pickup so you can't strand yourself with heater over-usage), and you can buy the OE quick-disconnect fittings (male and female) at a parts store very reasonably to make it all very factory looking (but who'd ever see it) and easy to service the tank, pump, etc in the future. I'd get an extra fuel tank/fuel pump ring gasket for reassembly. I've added pickups by that process a couple times before and I don't think the ENTIRE job from gasket, welding, fittings, etc has ever cost over $100. Not fun I guess but doesn't qualify as a PITA to me...but I work at hospital and go to law school so I deal with ACTUAL PITA's every day and wrench for fun.
iridewheelies
Adventurer
I spent a few hours in the seat swivel yesterday. I'm happy now.
First thing was to tighten up the swivel. I pulled it all back apart and got a photo showing the top, bottom and the bearing cassette.
Last time I had it apart I pumped a bunch of lithium grease into the bearing cassette which made it much smoother and quieter. I highly recommend doing it.
To keep the bolt tight I put an internal tooth lock washer between the bolt head and the bottom plate.
I put a couple pieces of UHMW tape on the top plate to give a low-friction surface for a nylon washer to spin on.
On top of the nylon washer is one of the original steel washers and the original bolt cranked down tight with blue locktite and then I deformed the threads a little with a punch and baby sledge.
It works perfectly. The swivel is tight and has just the right amount of resistance to spinning.
The next problem with it was that it's not flat on the bottom because the welded on plates aren't flat. I had to shim two corners with washers.
This is the worst part, the welders should be ashamed of themselves. The plates on the top part where you bolt the seat are welded on at an angle so when you tighten the bolts the seat track is twisted causing the slider in the seat to bind. I could barely slide the seat forward and back. I used three layers of gorilla tape as a shim on the inboard side.
Trimmed the tape
You can see how the welded on plate is not parallel with the seat base or seat track.
The gorilla tape shim worked great. The seat slides front to back just like it did on the factory seat base.
Wires run through bolt.
And it's done!
First thing was to tighten up the swivel. I pulled it all back apart and got a photo showing the top, bottom and the bearing cassette.
Last time I had it apart I pumped a bunch of lithium grease into the bearing cassette which made it much smoother and quieter. I highly recommend doing it.
To keep the bolt tight I put an internal tooth lock washer between the bolt head and the bottom plate.
I put a couple pieces of UHMW tape on the top plate to give a low-friction surface for a nylon washer to spin on.
On top of the nylon washer is one of the original steel washers and the original bolt cranked down tight with blue locktite and then I deformed the threads a little with a punch and baby sledge.
It works perfectly. The swivel is tight and has just the right amount of resistance to spinning.
The next problem with it was that it's not flat on the bottom because the welded on plates aren't flat. I had to shim two corners with washers.
This is the worst part, the welders should be ashamed of themselves. The plates on the top part where you bolt the seat are welded on at an angle so when you tighten the bolts the seat track is twisted causing the slider in the seat to bind. I could barely slide the seat forward and back. I used three layers of gorilla tape as a shim on the inboard side.
Trimmed the tape
You can see how the welded on plate is not parallel with the seat base or seat track.
The gorilla tape shim worked great. The seat slides front to back just like it did on the factory seat base.
Wires run through bolt.
And it's done!
iridewheelies
Adventurer
There was a small delay with the Hightop. I need to mail my fuel door to Van Specialties so they can make sure the paint matches perfectly. I'm a little bummed, I really wanted to have the top on before thanksgiving. We're going to head out to the Olympic Peninsula for some fishing and mushroom gathering. I feel so fortunate to live in the PNW and have so many opportunities to explore the backcountry within a few hours drive.
One thing my van didn't come with, that I really need, is rear windows that pop open. I looked at some passenger vans and it looks like an easy mod. I think I'd just need the glass and hardware from a wrecked van then get a new seal from the dealer. The hardware is riveted on.
There's a window with hardware on eBay right now for $155. I haven't called any junk yards looking for windows but this price seems high to me. The convenience is nice though, just a couple clicks and it shows up on my porch.
Any advice for me? Whose done this mod, is it as easy as it looks?
http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&alt=web&id=171375086228
Thanks!
One thing my van didn't come with, that I really need, is rear windows that pop open. I looked at some passenger vans and it looks like an easy mod. I think I'd just need the glass and hardware from a wrecked van then get a new seal from the dealer. The hardware is riveted on.
There's a window with hardware on eBay right now for $155. I haven't called any junk yards looking for windows but this price seems high to me. The convenience is nice though, just a couple clicks and it shows up on my porch.
Any advice for me? Whose done this mod, is it as easy as it looks?
http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&alt=web&id=171375086228
Thanks!
