2014 RAM 3500 Diesel

[Jason Blunt]

I want your opinion on this short list:
-2014 Ram 3500 Diesel.
-500HP!!
-170K miles.
-2.5 Carli Backcountry lift.
-37" Toyo R/T.
-Raceline wheels.
-Custom built bed rack.
-AEV front bumper.
-Buckstop dual swingout rear bumper.

What it worth???

 

[aaaslayer]

Look at KBB. You won't get anything for your aftermarket stuff. Most people prefer a stock vehicle as to one that is heavily modified especially for power mods. They'll assume you ran it hard. I just recently sold my 2015 RAM 2500 Cummins Laramie trim fully loaded with only 31k miles, long bed 8ft, and got $50k for it from a dealership. Traded in for a Power Wagon. KBB was 40-45k depending on condition, but even if it was perfect, you know most dealers will never give the max value. I got over KBB due to demand and shortage of trucks. Check KBB and use that as a starting point. I was not willing to accept less than $43k and my truck had Thuren suspension, Method wheels, 37s, full 4" turbo back exhaust running clean tunes no power tune no abusing it, ran great. I got $50k despite it not having all that emission crap on it.

 

[Rwatson8]

I wouldn't pay more than $30-33 with the mileage.

 

[Pnwfullsize]

I wouldn't pay more than $30-33 with the mileage.

This would be my estimate too, considering the market today. With that said, i am becoming accustomed to the shocking prices guys get for their trucks right now.

 

[Jason Blunt]

I appreciate the honest opinions!! Thanks!

 

[aaaslayer]

I appreciate the honest opinions!! Thanks!

What state are you in? Your mileage is really high. I'm sure that Cummins will run a lot longer but it doesn't take from the fact that the mileage is a lot. I went to Tobin Dodge in Henderson NV and they gave me $50k on my truck. I had to drive from CA to NV, as CA dealers were offering me $40k lmaoooo. It was worth the 2.5 hr drive for an extra $10k. Granted, it had wayyyy less mileage than your truck. You may want to consider offering it to a dealership who is desperate for inventory right now. Private sell will not value your truck as much. Also, if you have stock parts and willing to go back to stock, I'd do that first. You can leave the deletes if you're deleted (assuming you are if you are pushing that much HP). The state of NV will gladly take your truck deleted as it is a selling point.

 

[blupaddler]

The mileage isn't that bad... Check Cargurus and Autotrader to see what dealers are asking. The prices are absolutely nuts right now. Great time to sell, not a good time to buy.
I'd try to sell it as it first, then if nobody bites, take the stuff off and sell it stock (rack, rear bumper, suspension). Most buyers won't care about the backstop bumper, or other mods.

You didn't mention the trim level, so guessing Tradesman. Laramie's command a lot more.

My estimate based on the current pricing would be $40K ish

Best of luck.

 

[Luckychase5]

I paid $39.5 for mine with 78k miles. 2015 3500 diesel with the 68. Mine was an optioned SLT. Had some parts on it, but a clean truck. They guy wanted $42k, but it had a couple little dents and the tires were awful, this, $39.5k
I’ll take the front bumper if you want to sell it! I have a black truck too, so you could have my stock one… just saying…


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[leo4x]

My bank uses NADA guides to determine vehicle values, which I've seen respond to the current market, but in my experience, I see higher values on Carfax. For some reason, my bank only uses NADA to evaluate how much they are willing to lend against a vehicle's current market value. I just sold a Volvo that had a fair bit of upgrades and was in fantastic shape but still based my selling price entirely on what the tools estimated, and I watched that value rise over the last two months. The caveat here is that if the vehicle sales over market value, banks might increase interest rates when they pay over 100%, and for me, that's a deterrent as a customer.

Just my two cents: find comparable vehicles on CarGurus, Carfax, Facebook, and Autotrader to validate what's in your immediate area vs nationwide, and use that to justify your asking price against market value tools like NADA. If there are only four 3500's in your county and they look like ********, you could probably justify adding your upgrades in at 50% of what you paid for them. But if there are a dozen in your area that all look fantastic and are priced within market value, I recommend being honest about what you're willing to let it go at and see what happens from there. The worst thing that can happen is you list it online and argue with hagglers to no avail and simply take it down to try another day...

Hope this helps! Good luck!