So my new '16 JKUR with a JKS 3.5" lift, control arm drop brackets and 35's (315's) has a kind of flighty or oversteer feeling to it. It's a completely different feeling than my 2010 with 2.5" lift and drop brackets. I'm guessing the 2010 had a bit more caster because of the drop brackets than the '16 even though it has the brackets also. The drop brackets have 2 settings, one for 3.5" lift and another for 4.5", would moving the controls arms to the 4.5" position give a better feel to the steering possibly?
2016 JKUR + 3.5"&315's = feeling of oversteer
- Thread starter GFA
- Start date
Comanche Scott
Expedition Leader
Possibly. Could also cause some issues, if it band-aids another problem.
Did you have some miles on the tires/wheels before installing the lift without issue?
Did you have some miles on the tires/wheels before installing the lift without issue?
Mayhem-6
Observer
Anything done to correct your steering geometry? Might consider installing a high steer kit or a drop pitman arm to bring the drag link back down closer to its stock angle. Control arms will only correct your pinion angle, but since you've got up 1"+ over your last 2.5" kit, the change in the drag link angle is likely why you're feeling an increase in flighty steering.
Last edited:
I forgot to mention that I have a high steer kit installed also. My alignment specs showed everything being within spec except for the drivers front camber. It had a little too much negative camber but that's not adjustable short of using adjustable ball joints. I'm debating taking it back to the dealer for this since I don't even have 2k miles on it and I'd assume it'll cause a slight amount of additional tire wear over time. I do remember my 2010 had more caster than the '16 so I think I'll try putting the upper arms in the lower holes on the drop brackets to see how it feels and then have the alignment checked again to see if it's ok.
The tires had about 2k on them on the 2010. I do need to go back to discount tire to have them rebalanced though. I thought the slight vibe on my 2010 was the front driveshaft as the boot was damaged but I get the exact same vibe now on the '16. If they can't get it right I'll find someone who can do a road force balance on them.
jurassic63
New member
Are you using a raised axle mounted rear track bar bracket to correct the rear roll center height?
Have you checked tire pressure? I have 35 inch tires with a 3.5 inch lift (AEV build rig with the little placard and all the geometry brackets). the steering gets really twitchy if I have more than 30 psi in the tires. With 32 psi, I feel like I'm constantly making steering adjustments. While the balance could be off, I don't think that makes the steering act up too much...it would be more of a vibration I think.
So I finally got around to installing a new steering stabilizer, a Fox ATS, and it seems to have solved my issues. Either that or it's simply that the wind has laid down a bit instead of blowing 30+ each time I drive it. It's also tough in that it's not my daily driver and my F150 drives soooo much better than the jeep that it doesn't feel right for the first few miles in it.
Tire pressure definitely makes a huge difference too. I keep them at 30 but discount tire likes to set them at 40 every time I take it in for a rotation and balancing. I feel like I'm driving on a road with random ice patches until I drop it back to 30...
Tire pressure definitely makes a huge difference too. I keep them at 30 but discount tire likes to set them at 40 every time I take it in for a rotation and balancing. I feel like I'm driving on a road with random ice patches until I drop it back to 30...
Blue Baby Sound
A guy with a Jeep
30 is still a bit much if you're an E rated tire. 26-28 is pretty common, might try it with a little less.
BigDaveZJ
Adventurer
In my experience the stabilizer will simply mask other issues that are occurring in your suspension and steering.
WrenchMonkey
Mechanical Animal
This. I know my rig is a lot lighter, but it gets really squirrely anywhere over 25, and seems happiest around 22.
If nothing else, playing with pressure is the easiest, cheapest thing you can try.
So I took it back in to have the alignment checked as I just wasn't certain it was right. The first time I took it in a few weeks ago they didn't get the steering wheel perfectly centered so I did that myself before taking it in. It was definitely off a bit. Here are the before specs
And after
It feels a bit better for sure but my caster is just a tad on the high side accd to the specs. If it were 4° would that make a difference in the handling and would moving the upper arms to the lower position do that or put it closer to 6°?
It actually feels ok so I think I'll leave it alone for a while and maybe even throw the stock SS back on to see how it feels now that it's within spec.
Thanks
And after
It feels a bit better for sure but my caster is just a tad on the high side accd to the specs. If it were 4° would that make a difference in the handling and would moving the upper arms to the lower position do that or put it closer to 6°?
It actually feels ok so I think I'll leave it alone for a while and maybe even throw the stock SS back on to see how it feels now that it's within spec.
Thanks
Blue Baby Sound
A guy with a Jeep
I installed a new drag link and tie rod this weekend so I dropped it off today to have them align it. Here's my #s for comparison:
I have a Mopar Stage 3 lift with 37" Toyo MTs. I can drive with 1 finger on the wheel, no complaints even without a stabilzer. 27 PSI cold.
I have a Mopar Stage 3 lift with 37" Toyo MTs. I can drive with 1 finger on the wheel, no complaints even without a stabilzer. 27 PSI cold.
Last edited:
Blue Baby Sound
A guy with a Jeep
I might also mention, when mine got twitchy a while back it was bent rear axle flanges. It's not likely with your low miles, but a heavy 35 and a good size pothole it could be possible. If you're bored you could check the run out on them.