2020 Ford F250 on 37s - Expedition Truck Camper Build!

HowardH

Adventurer
So partly preference and partly function. You can design replacement leaf springs and retain the stock blocks -- but why?

Seems like the Dever spring simply stacks shorter springs into the pack. In effect simply making the block integral to the spring pack. End result appears to be the same.
 

montypower

Adventure Time!
You’ve done a lot of research and gained a lot of knowledge. Have you ever looked into exhaust or engine brakes for gas trucks such as yours?

Nope. I don't think it's necessary... shifting/gearing down typically holds speed well enough with occasional braking. Haven't had any issues with the brakes fading... they are massive!

Have you needed additional braking?
 

HowardH

Adventurer
Strictly speaking it may not be necessary. You’d never run a heavy truck without engine breaking. It’s more effective and a safety feature/backup to brakes.

Higher compression of diesels makes engine braking more effective I think.

You mention gearing down. Exactly. An engine brake would make gearing down more effective.
 

HowardH

Adventurer
Places like TireRack offer this service (at least they used to) if you have an AWD vehicle, had 1 tire go flat, and they'd shave a tire down to be within 2/32" of the other 4 tires.

is this the same process used to balance wheels and tires?
 

mk216v

Der Chef der Fahrzeuge
Higher compression of diesels makes engine braking more effective I think.
You mention gearing down. Exactly. An engine brake would make gearing down more effective.

mk216v said:
Places like TireRack offer this service (at least they used to) if you have an AWD vehicle, had 1 tire go flat, and they'd shave a tire down to be within 2/32" of the other 4 tires.
is this the same process used to balance wheels and tires?

In my research, I've never seen an engine/exhaust brake be effective on a petrol engine based on engine design differences between petrol and diesel. Banks exhaust brake works wonders on our diesel shop truck though.
No, different tool. I found one video;

@montypower what does your 37" Yoko Geo X-AT actually measure at for overall diameter once mounted to a wheel?
 

montypower

Adventure Time!
Seems like the Dever spring simply stacks shorter springs into the pack. In effect simply making the block integral to the spring pack. End result appears to be the same.

Stock springs are 40-50% thicker than the Deaver Leafs. Stock is 3-4 Leaf Springs. Deaver are 8+ leaf springs. It's a massive difference! You get a progressive spring pack that flexes (has wheel travel). Eliminating the block will help avoid axle wrap (gives the leaf springs more leverage to prevent axle rotation). Yes! You will notice a massive difference! We ran the stock shocks in the rear and it was drastically more compliant and controlled ride. Then added the FOX 2.5" and that improved the control and reduced weight transfer sway.
 

montypower

Adventure Time!
Strictly speaking it may not be necessary. You’d never run a heavy truck without engine breaking. It’s more effective and a safety feature/backup to brakes.

Higher compression of diesels makes engine braking more effective I think.

You mention gearing down. Exactly. An engine brake would make gearing down more effective.

That's true! And if it was available... I'd use it. Hauling heavy long distance (over 20k lbs) I could see this being more essential. Keeping within the gasser limits (under 20k lbs) I haven't found it an obstacle. Obviously driving within the limits of the truck and weight. We've been around 20k GCWR for short distances (max load) with no issues.
 

HowardH

Adventurer
I understand. I just didn't express myself Clearly.

My point, or comment, was that the Deaver setup is overall thicker than the factory springs, in the center or bottom of their spring pack. One of the results is that the stock height is maintained.

Not by the springs having more arch in them. Rather by making the thickness of them in the center equal to the thickness of the factory springs plus the block. So it seems from your video.
 

montypower

Adventure Time!
I understand. I just didn't express myself Clearly.

My point, or comment, was that the Deaver setup is overall thicker than the factory springs, in the center or bottom of their spring pack. One of the results is that the stock height is maintained.

Not by the springs having more arch in them. Rather by making the thickness of them in the center equal to the thickness of the factory springs plus the block. So it seems from your video.

That's true the spring pack is thicker which overall may be similar in profile height to the stock springs with block. Actual ride height and quality not accounted for.
 

montypower

Adventure Time!
There’s both a stock 2023 F350 leaf pack and a Deaver built to carry 1800-2000 pounds full time. Mine was lifted by the amount you see in the bump stop extension, not for the Deaver, but to accommodate the travel of the Kings.

Nope... the bump stop extensions are due to removing the factory blocks. These blocks have "ears" that the factory bump stops would contact at full compression. With the blocks removed... the bump stop will contact the axle tube which is why they need to be extended. There's no gain in "travel" due to the bump stops. King shocks are longer which will allow for more extension (suspension droop). Hope that makes sense.
 

eyemgh

Well-known member
Nope... the bump stop extensions are due to removing the factory blocks. These blocks have "ears" that the factory bump stops would contact at full compression. With the blocks removed... the bump stop will contact the axle tube which is why they need to be extended. There's no gain in "travel" due to the bump stops. King shocks are longer which will allow for more extension (suspension droop). Hope that makes sense.

(y)(y)
 

HowardH

Adventurer
In your pictures the Deaver appears to have 13 leaves. In Peters there are ten. I think he has his set to carry more weight.

wonder about the difference.
 

montypower

Adventure Time!

We finally completed the F250 Super Duty build! The final missing parts were the bumper lights. These lights were originally planned for the truck but I just didn’t want to spend the time or money…until NOW.

40” LED Light Bar – Rough Country 72940BD - $310
36,000 Lumens, 400W, Cree Led, IP67 Waterproof with plastic cover (for California)

Driving LED Lights – Baja Designs XL80 677803 - $800
9,500 Lumens (each), 80W, IP69 Waterproof

Fog Lights – Baja Designs Squadron SAE Amber (street legal) 257815 - $265
2,480 Lumens (each), 22W, IP69 Waterproof

Rear Flood Lights – Baja Designs Squadron Sport Wide Cornering 55805 - $250
3,150 Lumens (each), 26W, IP69 Waterproof

Total Cost: $1,625 – Is it worth the money? YES! Especially compared to paying $1,200+ for the factory LED headlights. These lights offer much more usable and functional light (front/rear) with massive front illumination.

My favorite feature is wiring the driving lights to turn on with the factory hi-beams. This makes them much more functional for back road driving. The factory auxiliary switches make wiring simple, clean and easy. Hope this helps give you guys some ideas…
 

Forum statistics

Threads
188,337
Messages
2,905,700
Members
229,959
Latest member
bdpkauai
Top