2022 Ford F350 Suspension

[VerMonsterRV]

Hi all, we're pretty much finished with our 8' slide in composite camper build. We have a 2022 F350 crew cab long bed. As we don't own a house, this was to be our USA based camper for when we visit (our MB1120 is in Argentina). So, we're thinking of doing a mild upgrade to the suspension. The rear is a little low due to the camper weight. I would like to fix that, but also a 2" lift (I think we need that to fit taller/wider tires). No need for any crazy expensive setup, mainly forest roads, sand, some mud and washboard.

A few details, 280ah lifepo4 (though I think we'll double that soon), Max fan, 3 burner range, queen bed, composting toilet, 130l fridge, wet bath, 2000w inverter charger,60 amp b2b, 50 gallons fresh water, 15 gray, diesel furnace, instant hot water heater and more. Lots of work

 

[TexasSixSeven]

I’d keep the factory leafs in the rear with an air bag setup, and add Carli 2.5” coils with either 2.5” Fox or King shocks tuned from Accutune for the weight. No need to go crazy with their full kit. Remove the front sway bar, add the coils, caster shims, track bar, and brake lines up front. It’ll look great, and ride even better.

 

[andy_b]

I’d wait until you’ve gotten your batteries updated and whatever else you need and then have custom leafs made for your weight. I’d also figure out what size tire you’re planning and then build the lift around that.

A new rear leaf pack will let you get rid of your factory lift block which will help decrease axle wrap. Getting springs made for your weight is such a big improvement. The adjustability of airbags are nice but they’re another thing you have to check and maintain. They also decrease the quality of the ride off road by adding an additional connection point between the truck and the axle, kind of like a swaybar does. Daystar cradles (budget) or Full Travel airbag kits (lux) are the solutions for this problem.

I’ve run 2.0s and 2.5s and didn’t see much of a difference, especially for the cost. I admit I’m running custom ADS 2.5s and they do look cool, but the Accutune Fox 2.0s were totally fine. I already the ADSs from another project, otherwise I’d have just gone with 2.0s. Getting custom springs was much more of an improvement, IMHO.

OUO (now S&B) makes these great adjustable coil spring perches which will let you dial in the perfect front ride height. They may even allow you to run a softer coil (within reason) but still get enough lift to clear whatever tires you’re getting or give you enough lift with your factory coils to avoid new coils.

Totally agree with getting rid of sway bars. I used OUO’s drop brackets which also correct caster. I also have their adjustable track bar (necessary to accommodate any amount of lift) and their proprietary steering stabilizer setup (nice but not necessary).

On my truck (‘24 F350), the lift is essentially a leveling kit and I didn’t need brake lines FWIW.

edit: depending on the size of your tires and wheels, you’ll probably need new radius arms.

 

[ITTOG]

If you level the front and remove the crash bars you can fit 35" tires without needing to lift the truck.

 

[tacollie]

What size tires do you what to run? 35s fit stock. Even some 37s will clear. If it's in the budget Carli coils really smooth the ride out. We have Alcan leafs in the rear. They are awesome but they aren't cheap.

I would also get axle weights. Then check a load inflation chart for your tires. You can likely run less than the 80psi on the door jam which will help with the ride and traction.

 

[rruff]

So, we're thinking of doing a mild upgrade to the suspension. The rear is a little low due to the camper weight. I would like to fix that, but also a 2" lift (I think we need that to fit taller/wider tires). No need for any crazy expensive setup, mainly forest roads, sand, some mud and washboard.

You don't need any lift to fit 37s, but you may hit the radius arm or swaybar if the wheels are too tucked in, or the front and rear of the fender/wheelwell if the wheels are too far out. A lift doesn't help these issues. 11.5" or 12.5" tires on narrowish rims would be best.

The internet is basically a huge pile of when it comes to this topic. You have to sort through and find the handful of people who understand geometry and have actually done it, and ignore everyone else...

The adjustable spring perches that andy-b mentioned might be a good way to dial in the front. On the rear I can say I much preferred the ride when I removed the overload and added 4 thin leafs vs having airbags (with ~30 psi). I got the leaf pack from Boise Spring for $600 something shipped, but any spring shop local to you could probably do something similar. They can recurve your existing leafs too.

For shocks I'd recommend something in the "cheap but decent" category, with a lifetime warranty and widely available... so if one dies, you can replace it anywhere. If you remove the swaybar, KYB Monomax or Bilstein 5100 would be decent I think.

 

[rruff]

I would also get axle weights. Then check a load inflation chart for your tires. You can likely run less than the 80psi on the door jam which will help with the ride and traction.

Yes, even loaded on the highway I run 35-40 psi , and down to 20 on washboard. 325/65r18s which are fat 35s.

 

[TexasSixSeven]

I’d wait until you’ve gotten your batteries updated and whatever else you need and then have custom leafs made for your weight. I’d also figure out what size tire you’re planning and then build the lift around that.

A new rear leaf pack will let you get rid of your factory lift block which will help decrease axle wrap. Getting springs made for your weight is such a big improvement. The adjustability of airbags are nice but they’re another thing you have to check and maintain. They also decrease the quality of the ride off road by adding an additional connection point between the truck and the axle, kind of like a swaybar does. Daystar cradles (budget) or Full Travel airbag kits (lux) are the solutions for this problem.

I’ve run 2.0s and 2.5s and didn’t see much of a difference, especially for the cost. I admit I’m running custom ADS 2.5s and they do look cool, but the Accutune Fox 2.0s were totally fine. I already the ADSs from another project, otherwise I’d have just gone with 2.0s. Getting custom springs was much more of an improvement, IMHO.

OUO (now S&B) makes these great adjustable coil spring perches which will let you dial in the perfect front ride height. They may even allow you to run a softer coil (within reason) but still get enough lift to clear whatever tires you’re getting or give you enough lift with your factory coils to avoid new coils.

Totally agree with getting rid of sway bars. I used OUO’s drop brackets which also correct caster. I also have their adjustable track bar (necessary to accommodate any amount of lift) and their proprietary steering stabilizer setup (nice but not necessary).

On my truck (‘24 F350), the lift is essentially a leveling kit and I didn’t need brake lines FWIW.

edit: depending on the size of your tires and wheels, you’ll probably need new radius arms.

How heavy are you running? I came from Fox 2.0s to Fox 2.5s. Running a semi stock truck weight the 2.0s were fine. Adding 2500 lbs of constant weight with camper and gear and the 2.5s were a significant improvement in body control.

I’m going to look into those adjustable perches. After 3 years running heavy my coils have sagged about 1/2” and I’d like to gain that back plus maybe another 1/4-1/2”.

I agree that custom leafs are the way to go, but for the sake of staying a somewhat budget friendly build I recommended the bag route.

 

[rruff]

Adding 2500 lbs of constant weight with camper and gear and the 2.5s were a significant improvement in body control.

Digressive (and high) damping is main thing for that, and they can both be custom valved.

I think the bigger shock and external reservoirs mainly allow for greater sustained cycling without overheating. In other words you can get the damping you need with a smaller shock, but they will be more prone to overheat on rough terrain at high speeds.

 

[andy_b]

How heavy are you running? I came from Fox 2.0s to Fox 2.5s. Running a semi stock truck weight the 2.0s were fine. Adding 2500 lbs of constant weight with camper and gear and the 2.5s were a significant improvement in body control.

I’m going to look into those adjustable perches. After 3 years running heavy my coils have sagged about 1/2” and I’d like to gain that back plus maybe another 1/4-1/2”.

I agree that custom leafs are the way to go, but for the sake of staying a somewhat budget friendly build I recommended the bag route.

Right around 11k.

Personally, I’d choose custom springs and save money on the shocks. Getting proper springs really helped my body control way more than the shocks did.

 

[VerMonsterRV]

Great stuff guys, taking a bit of time to look into the options you're suggesting. Guess we should get the truck weighed. It's not a large slide in, but it's more of a comfort/luxury build than a light weight one. One thing I want is durability, our MB1120 eats shocks, still haven't found ones that will last. Our other truck is in Argentina, and had plans to ship to southern Africa, but have heard the size might be challenging for entry into the game parks. So now wondering if we should ship the Ford there instead. So durability and capability is important.

 

[wfuller42]

Looks/sounds awesome. Mind if I PM with some questions about your build?

 

[VerMonsterRV]

Looks/sounds awesome. Mind if I PM with some questions about your build?

No problem

 

[andy_b]

Great stuff guys, taking a bit of time to look into the options you're suggesting. Guess we should get the truck weighed. It's not a large slide in, but it's more of a comfort/luxury build than a light weight one. One thing I want is durability, our MB1120 eats shocks, still haven't found ones that will last. Our other truck is in Argentina, and had plans to ship to southern Africa, but have heard the size might be challenging for entry into the game parks. So now wondering if we should ship the Ford there instead. So durability and capability is important.

Depending on the time scale, all suspension components are wear items. The rebuild schedule is something to consider with many of the shocks that have been suggested here. One possible advantage of the larger 2.5s is that since they have more oil, they may be able to go longer between servicing but that is just conjecture on my part. I saved the OEM shocks to use while the aftermarket ones are getting rebuilt.

 

[VerMonsterRV]

What do you all think about this kit

Bilstein 08-22 Ford F-250,F-350 B8 5162 Series Front Monotube Suspension Leveling Kit for 2in Lift

RimzOne Is Dedicated To The Stock, Leveled Or Lifted Truck & SUV Client. Get Your Bilstein Suspension Products From Us, We Will Not Be Beat!

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Anything else needed for the front lift? Is replacing the springs better/worse than the spacer?