2022 Ford F350 Suspension

[rruff]

In general springs would be best, but when you are loaded you'll have less than 2" of lift... which should be fine.

Bilstein 5160s oddly have a 90 day warranty vs limited lifetime on the 5100s. Check forums and such to see the experiences people have of honoring that, and how much trouble it is.

Also check out KYB Monomax. Most random auto parts places carry them. When I was looking awhile back they got good reviews and are intended for heavy pickups. I did a search for SA, and the web said KYB was biggest shock seller in the country.

Unlike the front of mine (IFS), you can replace a shock very easily... anything that will fit, in a pinch.

 

[andy_b]

I think you’ll still need an adjustable track rod and some way to correct castor (drop brackets, radius arms, etc). These trucks once lifted like more than the 2-3* of castor from factory. Obviously, you’ll also need rear shocks.

The most important question remains unanswered - what size tire and wheel? Your model year truck needs radius arms to clear larger tires so take that into consideration.

 

[MOAK]

I’m running a ‘24 F-350 with a Grandby Flatbed, loaded up we scaled out at just over 10,000 lbs, which is just under our GVWR of 11 and change. Currently on the stock 33s but will eventually go up to 35s. 2” leveling blocks in the rear got it back to the correct height. Truck handles great, doesn’t lean in corners and soaks up the bumps, the stock Rancho shocks that come with the 4FX package, perform much better than anticipated. I considered air bags, however, our weight does not change all that much so really no point in having an adjustable suspension.

 

[rruff]

Your model year truck needs radius arms to clear larger tires so take that into consideration.

Seeing plenty of people with 37s and stock radius arms...

 

[andy_b]

Seeing plenty of people with 37s and stock radius arms...

Not on pre-‘23s with stock wheels unless you’re only looking at the mall. They will rub offroad, especially with anything wider than 12.5s and minimal lift. More lift and less offset will give more clearance, but most combinations of wheel, lift, and tire on pre-‘23s also need new radius arms and swaybar mounts (if you choose to run sways) to totally eliminate rub off-road.

On ‘23 and later, changes in the swaybar mounts and radius arms allow stock wheels to clear 37s at stock ride height, although this will also rub off-road on the back of the wheel wells. I ran 37s on aftermarket wheels with +18 (factory is +45) and no lift for a little while - this only rubbed offroad at full articulation but this was really minimal.

 

[TonyCatmandu]

Seeing plenty of people with 37s and stock radius arms...

Mine seems to do just fine (2022 F250) with stock radius arms. Carli 2.5 lift front coils with 37's. I am not jumping ditches or anything but dirt and forest service roads no problem. Not running stock wheels though.

 

[rruff]

I ran 37s on aftermarket wheels with +18 (factory is +45) and no lift for a little while - this only rubbed offroad at full articulation but this was really minimal.

Yes, you need to balance the offset so you can clear the fore-aft fender with the outer tread, and also the radius arm and swaybar with the inner. If the OP wants to keep the stock rims, 35s are probably best. Or get new radius arms.

 

[Skinhyfish]

285/75/18 all day long. Look tall ride the best and have the highest load capacity

 

[andy_b]

Yes, you need to balance the offset so you can clear the fore-aft fender with the outer tread, and also the radius arm and swaybar with the inner. If the OP wants to keep the stock rims, 35s are probably best. Or get new radius arms.

Technically, the offset only affected the “in” and “out” of the wheel relative to its mounting surface. Lift is what (more or less) can help the body of the truck clear larger tires/wheel combos.

Regardless, the important decision is what size wheel and tire is the OP, or anyone, planning on running. That really dictates everything else. Personally, I think 37s are a great middle ground on these modern full size trucks - looks awesome and has better rollover than 35s but not so hard to work on in cases of flats, rotation, etc. I found them to be a lot smoother feeling offroad.

 

[rruff]

Technically, the offset only affected the “in” and “out” of the wheel relative to its mounting surface. Lift is what (more or less) can help the body of the truck clear larger tires/wheel combos.

It needs to clear when turning and also compressing the suspension. The outer tread will hit the fore-aft fender when turning if the tire is too outboard. A lift doesn't help unless it's a lot (5"+) and you limit the up travel accordingly. A 2" level is plenty, and taller tires will give you good ground clearance and roll over. Don't raise the CG more than necessary!

What tires and size do you have?

 

[andy_b]

It needs to clear when turning and also compressing the suspension. The outer tread will hit the fore-aft fender when turning if the tire is too outboard. A lift doesn't help unless it's a lot (5"+) and you limit the up travel accordingly. A 2" level is plenty, and taller tires will give you good ground clearance and roll over. Don't raise the CG more than necessary!

What tires and size do you have?

As mentioned, I’m running 37s on a 2024 SD. The lift is approximately a 2-3” level.

We’re saying the same thing, I’m just being more specific for the SD platform since I’ve built a couple recently. You’re missing some details and it isn’t quite true that you need 5” of lift to actually help in front wheel well clearance. Pre-’23 needs slightly more work to fit (and fit, I don’t mean soft-boy mall crawlers, but trucks used as intended) than ’23 and later. The formula usually consists of: wheels with less offset, minimum 2-3” of front end lift, radius arms, drop brackets, track rod, and associated springs and shocks. Some setups might need the front bumper spaced away from the frame. Compared to other trucks, it is pretty easy to fit big tires on modern SDs with some planning.