2022 RAM 5500 Composite "Super Camper"

[rruff]

Great info!

 

[Darwin]

For the windows and door(sidewall), how much foam did you take out for the second cut? Reason I am asking is the walls are only I believe 50 mm thick, vs the thickness of the windows internal frame. It almost looks like from the photos for the door that the foam is cut out all the way to the internal FRP.

Edit: I looked back at the photos of the door zoomed in, and it does look like there is maybe 1/4 of foam

 

[StenchRV]

For the windows and door(sidewall), how much foam did you take out for the second cut? Reason I am asking is the walls are only I believe 50 mm thick, vs the thickness of the windows internal frame. It almost looks like from the photos for the door that the foam is cut out all the way to the internal FRP.

Edit: I looked back at the photos of the door zoomed in, and it does look like there is maybe 1/4 of foam

There is about 1/4“, maybe 5/16”, of foam left and then the FRP.
You can order the thicker side walls. Our roof, floor, front and rear panel are 84 MM. Everyone we spoke with said the boxes were so thermally efficient the thicker side walls were unnecessary. We upgraded the windows and doors.

Cheers

 

[chris_the_wrench]

The way to end the week! Great work this week@OAT. Quade and his crew kicked butt this week!
Some end caps, a few at powder coating now, and final marker light and pre-wiring and DONE!

So the sub frame is solid attached at the rear then each side has two of those brackets with two bolts/springs on each brackets, and then one guide plate on each side? What did they end up using as a spacer between the truck frame and sub frame(hdpe)? I''ll be curious to see how you route the diesel filler neck to get proper angle. Also, will there be any sheeting to protect the bottom of the camper body from rocks/etc?

Thanks for documenting this!

 

[RAM5500 CAMPERTHING]

Just seeing this build... Woohoo!!

URGENT ADVICE, before the corner caps are glued on, run all the wires up top in the channels for the lights and through the extrusions on the sides for the marker lights!!!

NOT URGENT, BUT HEADACHE SAVING ADVICE: before getting too set on your layout, wait until everything is mounted up and we where your crossmembers are under the camper before going forward.

Those crossmembers are going to basically dictate where you install the heater, gray tanks, etc... I overlooked this in my design and it bit me in the ass 6 ways to sunday! Just an FYI

I'll send ya a PM to compare notes on some stuff

 

[Darwin]

There is about 1/4“, maybe 5/16”, of foam left and then the FRP.
You can order the thicker side walls. Our roof, floor, front and rear panel are 84 MM. Everyone we spoke with said the boxes were so thermally efficient the thicker side walls were unnecessary. We upgraded the windows and doors.

Cheers

Those windows are a royal pain in the ass to install on 50 mm sidewalls, you got the benefit of watching it done at the shop with the roof hatch and door so that should help out a lot.

 

[StenchRV]

So the sub frame is solid attached at the rear then each side has two of those brackets with two bolts/springs on each brackets, and then one guide plate on each side? What did they end up using as a spacer between the truck frame and sub frame(hdpe)? I''ll be curious to see how you route the diesel filler neck to get proper angle. Also, will there be any sheeting to protect the bottom of the camper body from rocks/etc?

Thanks for documenting this!

Yes, that is how the subframe is attached. 1/2” plate used for all the mounts and guide plated. UHMW was used between the rail on rail system. The UHMW is black and hard to see. Yes, we are planning a slight “ modification” to the subframe when we get home. We will use a bolt in plate to protect the underside of the box and slightly modify the side rail when we have our storage boxes designed. We want everything removable for maintenance down the road. JUST IN CASE!

 

[StenchRV]

Those windows are a royal pain in the ass to install on 50 mm sidewalls, you got the benefit of watching it done at the shop with the roof hatch and door so that should help out a lot.

It was worth a few extra $$ to have Quade and his crew install the big items and get some OJT on the installation process. It will help us immensely when we go to install the other 4 items. Really the only reason OAT did not do it all is we want some exact placement and that is hard to do at this point. The interior is designed, but as everyone knows nothing is set in stone at this point.

We are SO GRATEFUL to the crew at OAT. Having us at the shop all week and even jumping in now and then is not the norm. It has been helpful at times to make on the fly decisions but we did our best to stand clear. I just geek out on the process. Really cool to see years of planning and work come together!

 

[StenchRV]

Just seeing this build... Woohoo!!

URGENT ADVICE, before the corner caps are glued on, run all the wires up top in the channels for the lights and through the extrusions on the sides for the marker lights!!!

NOT URGENT, BUT HEADACHE SAVING ADVICE: before getting too set on your layout, wait until everything is mounted up and we where your crossmembers are under the camper before going forward.

Those crossmembers are going to basically dictate where you install the heater, gray tanks, etc... I overlooked this in my design and it bit me in the ass 6 ways to sunday! Just an FYI

I'll send ya a PM to compare notes on some stuff

They are running all the marker lights and exterior lighting wires this week, before the caps are on. ?
A few custom made aluminum caps are being powder coated, pick them up tomorrow.

Always great advice, those darn crossmembers! We looked at the placement but until this thing is all together, you are correct, a tweak or two will have to take place.

THANK YOU for all of your help!

 

[StenchRV]

Ok……asking for opinions.

We ordered a bunch of items from Buckstop 6 months ago. As I have stated before the order, most of it, is ready for pickup on our trip home in a week. It saves us $1500.00 in shipping.

Now the question. Buckstop is having problems, supply issues, getting the outer hoops for their steel wheels.
I am supposed to call them tomorrow and see if the hoops have arrived, or will arrive soon. If not, Buckstop has offered their aluminum DOT approved beadlock rims for a very reduced price. We do not need the steel rims right away. We can wait a few more months but we would have to ship 5 steel wheels to Atlanta.

OPINIONS…. If you had a choice and money was not the deciding factor, Steel or the aluminum?
The aluminum rims fit the front and rear the same as the steel.
I am going to have Buckstop send me more information on the aluminum rims in the morning.
I will make the choice before they close tomorrow. We plan on stopping by Buckstop a week from tomorrow.

Please feel free to chime in. ?.

THANKS

 

[RAM5500 CAMPERTHING]

Ok……asking for opinions.

We ordered a bunch of items from Buckstop 6 months ago. As I have stated before the order, most of it, is ready for pickup on our trip home in a week. It saves us $1500.00 in shipping.

Now the question. Buckstop is having problems, supply issues, getting the outer hoops for their steel wheels.
I am supposed to call them tomorrow and see if the hoops have arrived, or will arrive soon. If not, Buckstop has offered their aluminum DOT approved beadlock rims for a very reduced price. We do not need the steel rims right away. We can wait a few more months but we would have to ship 5 steel wheels to Atlanta.

OPINIONS…. If you had a choice and money was not the deciding factor, Steel or the aluminum?
The aluminum rims fit the front and rear the same as the steel.
I am going to have Buckstop send me more information on the aluminum rims in the morning.
I will make the choice before they close tomorrow. We plan on stopping by Buckstop a week from tomorrow.

Please feel free to chime in. ?.

THANKS

I’d stick with steel regardless of the costs / weight

There’s several folks running aluminum super singles that have basically fused themselves to the hubs because of the dissimilar metals and it takes damn near an act of god to get them off.

My .02

 

[StenchRV]

I’d stick with steel regardless of the costs / weight

There’s several folks running aluminum super singles that have basically fused themselves to the hubs because of the dissimilar metals and it takes damn near an act of god to get them off.

My .02

.02………CHA CHING! That is GREAT advice! Something I had not thought of!

 

[greg.potter]

I’d stick with steel regardless of the costs / weight

There’s several folks running aluminum super singles that have basically fused themselves to the hubs because of the dissimilar metals and it takes damn near an act of god to get them off.

My .02

Another option is to use a corrosion inhibitor between aluminum rims and steel hubs. I've been doing that for years after learning the hard way. There are probably a number of options out there, I have successfully used Permatex 76764.

 

[RAM5500 CAMPERTHING]

Another option is to use a corrosion inhibitor between aluminum rims and steel hubs. I've been doing that for years after learning the hard way. There are probably a number of options out there, I have successfully used Permatex 76764.

True, and i have used that in many other applications.

But for something as big of a pain in the ******** to have issues with as a 200lb wheel, i would prefer the piece of mind of not needing to remind myself it needs anti-seize or similar everytime i remove it. Stuff is messy as hell

I've never had an issue with aluminum wheels on steel axles my entire life, but i think its the tight tolerances mixed with the weight of the big super singles that are creating this issue for some.

 

[Explorerinil]

Another option is to use a corrosion inhibitor between aluminum rims and steel hubs. I've been doing that for years after learning the hard way. There are probably a number of options out there, I have successfully used Permatex 76764.

Ive had aluminum rims on every vehicle accept one since i was 16, I’m 42 now and only had one rim get stuck on. It happens, but it’s not common. When I rotate my tires I put a very small amount on antiseze on the back side of the rim where it touches the steel hub. Remember every manufacturer sells vehicles with alum rims. The one time one got stuck I used a rubber mallet and tapped around the back of the tire in a circular pattern and it came loose easily.

not trying to sell you one way or another or trying to argue with anyone, just telling you my experience.