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billiebob

Well-known member
Being top heavy is the least of your concerns. I'm thinking the first bump is going to break it apart. Have scaled it?
All I can say is WOW.

A quick google says that trailer was built to transport 1200#

13 foot 1968 Shasta Compact - it's so cozy and tows like it's not even there. It weighs only 1200 lbs.
 
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YNotBeeAntoine

New member
Being top heavy is the least of your concerns. I'm thinking the first bump is going to break it apart. Have scaled it?
All I can say is WOW.
It's not that heavy. I think about 2000 at the most. We built another wagon a few years ago, and it was 2200 with a heavier trailer, and way more wood. Can't drive it down the road to scale it until the wheels are addressed.
 

old_CWO

Well-known member
you can sometimes change trailer axle width by cutting, sleeving and welding. I would only do that if I were narrowing one from a heavy duty to light duty trailer; not the other way around. In your case I believe it would be sketchy at best.

Short of starting over, you could build a rectangular subframe assembly that would hold your new proper width axle and springs. That of course puts the tires outside of the body like a Jeep trailer and might make you too wide overall. I think at the end of the day what you have there is something way to tall and heavy for your starting chassis.
 

NevetsG

Active member
First off - Great workmanship, and a very interesting design.

I agree with the rest of the folks here, and you have far exceeded what that trailer frame can handle (without loading it), plus your center of gravity is very high. Now consider frame flex and twist (no road is perfect), then add in the high center of gravity with walls that have a low resistance to lateral forces (I don't see any shear/lateral bracing in the walls), and you will very likely end up with a twisted mess on your way to get it weighed.

But all isn't lost. Build or heavily reinforce the trailer frame to resist twisting, and create mounts for a heavier axle (3500# min.) or utilize an Axle-less system (Timbren) to give you more adjustment on your wheelbase width. It looks like you haven't finished the interior yet, so you could still ad lateral cross bracing.

Good luck, share the results once you get it done.
 

billiebob

Well-known member
This trailer is destined to be one of those disasters which brings the law down on all of us and ends up banning the homebilt.

Look at the floor joists, every one is cut. All there is providing support for the side wall is that light steel angle. A disaster waiting to happen. Beer must have been involved.
 

Uncle Jeffy

New member
This trailer is destined to be one of those disasters which brings the law down on all of us and ends up banning the homebilt.

Look at the floor joists, every one is cut. All there is providing support for the side wall is that light steel angle. A disaster waiting to happen. Beer must have been involved.

I have to agree. I can easily picture this thing hitting a mild bump, the suspension or the floor collapsing on one side, the trailer tipping over to that side, taking the tow vehicle with it, and spilling a huge mess all over the road. I'm no expert but I can easily see your trailer weighing more than 5,000 lbs. There is a massive amount of 2x4 lumber there. Please be safe!

 

Teardropper

Well-known member
Have you considered how close the front corners will be to your tow vehicle in a tight turn?

The other issue I see is that it appears the axle is nearly centered. The rule (somewhat of thumb) is 60/40% –the tow vehicle needs to support about 60% of the weight or otherwise, the trailer will start weaving and become dangerously unstable.

Take a look:

T
 
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CampStewart

Observer
Longer axle will just have a longer cantilever from where the spring attaches, it would probably be marginally more stable with very stiff springs and a very heavy axle but I agree with the analysis to cut the axle and tongue off and mount it on a much stronger and wider frame. You coule probably keep the ride height close to where it is now by using a torsion axle. It looks very nice on the outside but looking at how it was constructed would make every experienced carpenter I know cringe. Having said all of that if you match a torsion axle to the weight of the structure so it will ride smooth and not beat itself into pulp it will probably last many years. Set it up so the tires are outside of the structure not under it. Use E rated 16 inch truck tires with stiff sidewalls. When traveling move anything that is heavy and up in the air down as low as you can to lower the center of gravity.
 

YNotBeeAntoine

New member
Just had a chance to read all the responses. It's 2x3s not 2x4s which does lessen the weight a bit. Yes, it is very high, no, we were not when it was built. The next idea we had, (and given that this is NOT a tiny house forum, I will bring this to a close, quickly) was to remove the springs and axle and just load (and permanently attach) this framed monster on top of a wider trailer with a 5K# axle and bigger wheels. Hey, live and learn-- it was a fun project, and if it is never drivable, I hope we can at least get it somewhere to park it as a guest house. I really appreciate all of the constructive points, and insight -- And for those with all the negativity-- Yeah, not so much.
 

billiebob

Well-known member
Longer axle will just have a longer cantilever from where the spring attaches, it would probably be marginally more stable with very stiff springs and a very heavy axle
This guy does not have a clue.

But lets talk about other issues with tiny homes. There is no code or standard to build them too.

An RV has a Certification Plate confirming it complies with a standard for safety.
A Mobile Home, same thing, there is a Certification Standard and an inspection process.
A Residence conforms to a Building Code and construction involves Building Permits and Inspections.

Those processes control structure, electrical, plumbing, ventilation, egress.....
I've seen tiny homes with 1 circuit for all the electrical, sinks without venting, entry doors without landings, sleeping areas without secondary exits, ie a window big enough to crawl thru. And non compliant access for emergency personell. If you have a medical emergency in the sleeping loft, putting you on a stretcher becomes a confined space rescue.

Forget about the safety of the person living there the fact it is built all willy nilly puts others at risk. This will be the nail in the coffin for tiny homes. Someone will get hurt. Lawsuits will result and municipalities will start condemning these non compliant residences. The only good thing about the tiny home popularity is it will draw attention to the problem and guarantee tiny homes a place at the landfill.
 
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