20ft container DIY

danf

New member
Hi Guys,

It seems like a 20ft container size is roughly the largest any of the medium/large 4wd trucks can carry comfortably.

I am contemplating a semi DIY build, and wondering if anyone has converted a 20ft container into an overlander? I'm aware Bliss Mobil have a product that would suit but I feel like I could probably customize something and build it for significantly cheaper. (Does anyone have a rough price for their 20ft model?)

I ask because my heavy metalworking skills aren't great and if I can just strip down a cheap 20 ft and convert it I feel like it will be easier.
 

vintageracer

To Infinity and Beyond!
$1000-$2500 buys em all day depending upon condition and location.

20´ Dry Container - (20' DC)
Tare WeightPayload capacityInternal Length
2,180 kg28,300 kg5.9 m
5,030 lbs62,390 lbs19.4 ft
Internal WidthInternal HeightDoor Opening Height
2.35 m2.39 m2.28 m
 

danf

New member
First problem would be the starting weight. Containers are heavy to begin with.

Yeah I was contemplating using it as basically a frame, cutting out the sides and back doors etc and using the steel corners as a frame infilled with some sort of XPS panel or similar.
 

danf

New member
Use a decent fibreglass sandwich panel and you won't need the frame.
Cheers,
Peter
OKA196 motorhome

Thanks Peter.

I was thinking that the frame would be great for:
Ruggedness, especially off road on smaller tracks in Aus
Having floor pre-done
Having Roof pre-done and walkable (Would love to have a walkable roof area, I'm a photographer.)
Attachment points on frame for heavy items such as Tyres etc
Ability to bolt on an over cab sleeping area (need 2 sleeping "Areas")

But if it's a bad idea, just let me know, I've only started scratching the surface of research at the moment.
 

tanuki.himself

Active member
The people supplying the fibreglass/foam panels for my build shared details with me for a truck they have built for hunters who want to have multiple people on the roof, and they specced that roof at 60mm foam with 2mm skins. So, it can be done. Personally I agree with other comments here that a container is going to be way too heavy and probably more work to cut it down than it would be to start from scratch.
 

Toyaddict

Active member
Thanks Peter.

I was thinking that the frame would be great for:
Ruggedness, especially off road on smaller tracks in Aus
Having floor pre-done
Having Roof pre-done and walkable (Would love to have a walkable roof area, I'm a photographer.)
Attachment points on frame for heavy items such as Tyres etc
Ability to bolt on an over cab sleeping area (need 2 sleeping "Areas")

But if it's a bad idea, just let me know, I've only started scratching the surface of research at the moment.
The roof is walkable for sure, but without some inner structure my 40' container resembles a trampoline more than something solid.
 

Peter_n_Margaret

Adventurer
My 15 year old build is 19mm fibreglass sandwich panel with 1.5mm skins. It has a lightweight steel tube frame which in hindsight was mostly not needed.
We are standing on the pop top over the bed which is about half the roof area and has no support except around the edges.
It would be OK with 10 people up there.
I used sandwich from 2 different sources, but the best FRP sandwich in Oz is from Vanglass in Yandina Qld. http://vanglass.homestead.com/index.html
P1000525cE.JPG
Cheers,
Peter
OKA196 motorhome
 

CampStewart

Observer
I would think the center of gravity of a vehicle with a sea container bolted on would be very high as would be the overall height. I would not want to take one off camber or anywhere with trees
 

danf

New member
Awesome thanks guys.

Thanks to your advice I've targeted my research more and have found some people in Aus that do CNC cut RV shells using board, including things like steel tapping plates and conduits. They look quote easy to put together so I'll move on to the next stage, outfitting!
 

Peter_n_Margaret

Adventurer
Vanglass do CNC panel cutting too. If you can design the box on a simple CAD system they will deliver it as a flat pack like IKEA furniture.
The best sandwich is laid up wet on wet using closed cell polyurethane foam. It is lighter and stronger than cheaper stuff which is simply FRP sheet glued to foam. Closed cell polyurethane foam is stronger and better insulation than polystyrene foam or honeycomb which has very poor insulation.
In my case I used sandwich panel for all of the internal furniture as well making the whole structure immensely strong and light. It is glued together with Sikaflex 252.
Cheers,
Peter
OKA196 motorhome
 

danf

New member
Hey everyone, has anyone thought about or tried drop down decks to give heaps of outdoor room?

Sort of like this but just one side - with an awning or roof over the top and fly screens creating an outdoor "room"


We are a couple with a toddler and 2 dogs planning a 1 - ? Year tour of Aus and possibly beyond.

We want to live comfortably and move every 2 - 3 days, not driving long distances between stops.

We really need more room than we can get in a standard ATW etc and we want to be able to get to almost anywhere, so we are thinking that a 20ft or so container design would just give us enough room.

Thinking an ex military Scania 4x4 truck would fit the bill.

Still tossing up between this and an off road caravan, but we know how burdensome and difficult towing things and especially off road towing things can be.
 

danf

New member
Vanglass do CNC panel cutting too. If you can design the box on a simple CAD system they will deliver it as a flat pack like IKEA furniture.
The best sandwich is laid up wet on wet using closed cell polyurethane foam. It is lighter and stronger than cheaper stuff which is simply FRP sheet glued to foam. Closed cell polyurethane foam is stronger and better insulation than polystyrene foam or honeycomb which has very poor insulation.
In my case I used sandwich panel for all of the internal furniture as well making the whole structure immensely strong and light. It is glued together with Sikaflex 252.
Cheers,
Peter
OKA196 motorhome

Thanks for the advice Peter.

Do you have any photos or images of your Rig? Especially the internals or build diaries or pics?
 

Peter_n_Margaret

Adventurer
Thanks for the advice Peter.
Do you have any photos or images of your Rig? Especially the internals or build diaries or pics?
Thousands.... :)
A couple to start....
The bed over cab frees up a lot of space in the living area if the vehicle cab is not too high. Our living area is full standing height so we put a pop top over the bed to give more head room there, but we can sleep with it down if necessary. The alternative would be a bed that comes down at night and raises up to the ceiling over the dining area during the day.
The OKA has a very rigid chassis, so the back section can be fixed to the cab. That has many advantages but is not possible with many vehicles.
We have a shower & toilet inside too, all in a vehicle with an overall length under 6m (including rear mounted spares).
We have a "crawl through" (via the wardrobe) between the cab and living area.
06 Seats & tableE.jpg07 KitchenE.jpg08 FridgeE.jpgP1020814E.jpg
ps..... I does not look any different now, 14 years after those pics were taken.
Cheers,
Peter
OKA196 motorhome
 

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