285 Wheel Opinions

[AxleIke]

I've got a 99, with a 2" toytec lift in the front, and 2" OME in the rear, and recently tossed on a set of 285/75 16 Geolander AT's. I'm liking the tire more than my MT/R's I had before, but the tires came with a set of Mickey Thompson Classic MT's in a 3 5/8" back space.

So, they don't rub at all in the front, but the rear rubs like crazy, and the truck looks like a roller skate. I put the 5th one back onto my stock 5 spoke's, and test fit it up front, and, obviously, it rubs on the a-arm (I've got lots-o-tools, so that issue isn't a problem). However, it *LOOKS* like it may also rub on the frame when turned to full lock, and the tire gets stuffed, but I can't be sure.

Anyone here running the stock alloy's on a similar generation Runner with similar tires (same size, can be a different brand), and know if it does?

Its not too big an issue if it does, as I can notch the frame, but that is a ton of extra work I'd rather not do.

I ask here rather than just slapping everything together and trying it out myself because I'm going to be pulling a lot of the front end apart (regear, ball joints, etc...) and it would be a prime time to do some cut and paste if needed.

Cheers!

 

[montypower]

Get different wheels or wheel spacers. 285s are wide tires. You'll also need to do some clearance grinding and cutting to resolve the rubbing. I put 1.5" body lift on my 99 after installing 285s which solved all the clearance issues. BTW: suspension lift does not fix tire rubbing/clearance issues unless you change the travel range (ie bump stop location).

 

[AxleIke]

Get different wheels or wheel spacers. 285s are wide tires. You'll also need to do some clearance grinding and cutting to resolve the rubbing. I put 1.5" body lift on my 99 after installing 285s which solved all the clearance issues. BTW: suspension lift does not fix tire rubbing/clearance issues unless you change the travel range (ie bump stop location).

I have different wheels. Don't like them. The rubbing only occurs in the rear (because the wheels stick out so far, the sidewall rubs the outter part of the fender at the very center of the fender at the top). There is no rubbing up front.

However, when I put my factory alloy's back on, there is rubbage in the front. I don't really care for body lifts, so I'll trim to fit, but I was just wondering if people experienced rubbing on the frame at full lock, full stuff. The factory bump stop locations look like they may just stop the up travel before the tire connects, but not sure if it will. I may just notch the frame to be safe and be done with it.

I was just checking to see if anyone else had given it a go.

 

[rickashay]

I don't think there is any need to notch the frame and I would avoid it if at all possible.

I run 285's and have trimmed my pinch welds quite a bit and done some fender liner trimming. I get ZERO rub at full flex and full lock. I run stock UCA's and the tires have plenty of space.

Here's the catch though, my wheels are 4.5" BS with a 0 offset. So I'm right in the middle of your 3 5/8" BS wheels and your stockers. I know a lot of people are running stock wheels and 285's and I have never heard mention of frame rub (although they could have wheels spacers). I thought only the 305 and 315 sized tires (12"+) rubbed the frame at lock. IMO I would run a slip on 5-10mm spacer to on your factory wheels (and Matrix extended studs for more thread engagement) or 1" All-Pro spacers, or sell your 3 5/8" BS wheels and get something that is more appropriately setup for our Toyotas. If your after an OEM look, the LC80 Landcruiser wheels are 16x8, 4.5" BS, 0 offset and are super strong, light, and relatively cheap. Or have a look at the wheels I'm running which were designed specifically for our 3rd gen 4Runners and Tacomas - http://www.stealthcustomseries.com/

GL!!

 

[AxleIke]

So, what are the stockers? I thought they too were 4.5" backspace. Not so, I take it.

I like those SCS wheels, may have to check them out. I wish they made the 6 in the 16 x 8 size. Ah well.

I know the LC wheels work, but I'm just not that wild about the look.

I do like your idea of the spacers. I had some at one point but cant find the damn things now. May have to pick up another set.

Got a link for the matrix extended studs? Unless you mean the studs from a toyota Matrix? That is all searching found.

 

[summerprophet]

Likely not neccesarilly what you want/need to hear, but I am running 285/75r16 on stock rims w. 1 inch spacers 1.5" body lift 1.5" suspension lift. Pinch welds trimmed and folded. No rub (anymore). On a 99 4runner as well.

 

[AxleIke]

Good to know.

Looks like some good options all around, I'll have to figure it out a bit I suppose.

Thanks!

 

[montypower]

I always find it interesting how people "claim" 285s fit fine. Sure on road... But... Pull your coil overs and cycle the suspension through the entire range while turning the wheel lock to lock. There's no way they fit without serious trimming/grinding no matter the wheel offset. I still needed to trim my inner fender liner and flare (bottom section) to avoid rubbing and that was with 1.5" body lift.

 

[troyboy162]

Dont notch the frame. Your turning radius is not effected enough to bother. Google the tire clearing posts for more info but we all scrub on the frame for the most part. Putting large spacers on or backspaced wheels just shoves the tire into the firewall more during articulation, so you will reach a point of diminishing returns. This is mine for 35" tires on stock rims, but the first pic is the previous job for the 33" tires
http://www.ultimateyota.com/showthr...-tires-on-a-3rd-gen-4runner&p=85981#post85981

 

[AxleIke]

I always find it interesting how people "claim" 285s fit fine. Sure on road... But... Pull your coil overs and cycle the suspension through the entire range while turning the wheel lock to lock. There's no way they fit without serious trimming/grinding no matter the wheel offset. I still needed to trim my inner fender liner and flare (bottom section) to avoid rubbing and that was with 1.5" body lift.

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What do you mean by "Major Rubbing"? I had "Major Rubbing" on my 87 when I put on 35's, but I say major rubbing because it was literally tearing the fender off, as in pushing the tire into the sheetmetal by over an inch. I cut a large portion of the firewall out, re welded, and re-sealed everything. Also cut an inch out of the fender lip.

For the new truck, I already plan to pound the pinch weld flat, and trim out the inner fender. Not a problem. My concerns are frame and a-arm rubbing. A arm because I don't want to lose a sidewall, and frame because its annoying. But, if its only at full lock, I'll likely never be there at full stuff, as it is a great way to lose a CV. Sounds like 1/4" spacers are the ticket.

Dont notch the frame. Your turning radius is not effected enough to bother. Google the tire clearing posts for more info but we all scrub on the frame for the most part. Putting large spacers on or backspaced wheels just shoves the tire into the firewall more during articulation, so you will reach a point of diminishing returns. This is mine for 35" tires on stock rims, but the first pic is the previous job for the 33" tires
http://www.ultimateyota.com/showthr...-tires-on-a-3rd-gen-4runner&p=85981#post85981

Good to see. I already planned on doing more than what was in your first picture there. How are you liking the 35's?

 

[rickashay]

Got a link for the matrix extended studs? Unless you mean the studs from a toyota Matrix? That is all searching found.

Looks like the link I had bookmarked is no longer functioning. Sorry, I should have clarified - Toyota Matrix lugs studs are 1/2" longer than stock with the same threads. I MIGHT be able to dig up the PN with some digging around my computer. I believe they are sourced from 02 Matrix's.

As for the SCS wheels and what makes them stand out from other aftermarket wheels: hub centric for our trucks (no vibes or weird conical lug nuts to center the rim on the hub), 0 offset means the load of the wheel is directly centered in the rim and there is no "extra leverage" on wheel bearings that spacers or negative offset wheels will provide, @ 19lbs a corner they are very light, and the choice of several color options (matte silver will be added soon to their line-up if your dont like black/gunmetal/bronze).

I always find it interesting how people "claim" 285s fit fine. Sure on road... But... Pull your coil overs and cycle the suspension through the entire range while turning the wheel lock to lock. There's no way they fit without serious trimming/grinding no matter the wheel offset. I still needed to trim my inner fender liner and flare (bottom section) to avoid rubbing and that was with 1.5" body lift.

I clearanced my 285's the same way as you did. I definitely don't have any "major" rubbing. As I mentioned before, I trimmed my front pinch welds pretty good and cut some of the fender liner out. I later, also trimmed my rear pinch welds. The only place my truck rubs under FULL flex is in the rear - rear tire hits the top of inside of the wheel well. Why does this happen? I haven't extended my factory bump stops the ~1" that I should have done a long time ago.

Also, I notice your running Toyo M/T tires. Toyo's are known to measure on the large side of things - your probably at a true 33" or slightly taller. My Mickey Thompson MTZ's measured out at 32.7" when mounted on my 8" wheel. I bet the Toyo's even measure slightly wider....

 

[troyboy162]

Good to see. I already planned on doing more than what was in your first picture there. How are you liking the 35's?

They are great for the hard trails like the hammers, but silly for the other 80% of the my wheeling. I had rub on my stock A-arms with 285 as well. I just lived with it since it was only at full droop and not enough pressure to damage the sidewall. Eventually I went to aftermarket upper arms for more droop and that got rid of the tire scuff on 285 as a bonus.

With the 35's I also ended up with 1.25" spacers on stock wheels last year. I had to pound the firewall even more and also have rub every once in awhile now. I never wanted bolt on spacers but I rolled lol so that little extra width makes me feel better and probably nothing else haha.