bearman512
Adventurer
I agree just trying to troubleshoot before money is spent. The Truckfridge is going to be much cheaper than a new 3 way and it will be really easy to install and IMHO the best choice.
3-way Fridge Replacement Options?
- Thread starter adventr
- Start date
Motafinga
Adventurer
I hear ya and did the the same thing myself. I did a bunch of maintenance to get my 3 way working again which included cleaning the burner and flu, replacing the thermal coupler and the flame sensor wiring. It seemed to work ok some of the time but was still inconsistent at best and I did read later that if you run them un-level enough it really screws em up and if your lucky you can "burp" it back to life by leaving it on each side a few hours at a time then sit it level for a few hours before reinstalling. I think I may have added to the poor performance of mine by trying to pre-cool it on DC before a trip in front of my house where the rig is parked on a downhill. Just something to consider if you've run it on an angle, it can screw em up in DC or LP mode.
Ramblinman
Observer
I have been very luck with my 3 Way - it does need some manipulation like others have said here. Park in the shade, keep it out of the sun etc. I will never say never - but I will likely replace it with another 3 way. My opinion would be to trouble shoot yours and do some home work before you purchase the compressor fridge. The compressor fridge usually requires solar and the requisite gadgets. You are now getting in to the 3000 dollar range if you include batteries and all the other stuff. Thats more than my fridge at home. I can run my 3 Way for over a week in Baja on one 10 lb tank of propane. No solar required.
If you read the different posts here and over on WTW - owners still have problems with their compressors or the solar they need to power them. For the money I will dance with the devil that I know. I really like turning the fridge down to the lowest setting - going on a back pack hunt and coming back 2 days later to ice cold beer! My batteries would be be drained if I had a compressor fridge w/o solar.
I manage the temperature by not leaving the fridge door open. Freezing a water bottle over night and putting it in the fridge during the really hot days.
I would considering an attempt to fix what you have before diving in to an expensive set up.
Something about simplicity in a camper - save the money for fuel and beer. Maybe when my 3 way goes I will buy a cooler and try that route.
If you read the different posts here and over on WTW - owners still have problems with their compressors or the solar they need to power them. For the money I will dance with the devil that I know. I really like turning the fridge down to the lowest setting - going on a back pack hunt and coming back 2 days later to ice cold beer! My batteries would be be drained if I had a compressor fridge w/o solar.
I manage the temperature by not leaving the fridge door open. Freezing a water bottle over night and putting it in the fridge during the really hot days.
I would considering an attempt to fix what you have before diving in to an expensive set up.
Something about simplicity in a camper - save the money for fuel and beer. Maybe when my 3 way goes I will buy a cooler and try that route.
Sparse Gray Hackle
Geezer
If you have room, or are willing to lose floor space, consider using the refer cabinet for storage, then going to a chest style compressor freezer/fridge. We have a 43qt Engel that is both AC and DC, and very efficient. It's used in our ATC and boat. You will need a way to keep your battery bank charged, so that means solar (150 watts or more), a generator or daily driving.
Our first popup had an 80 qt Dometic refrigerator that worked well, but was a power hog. You also lose more cold air every time you open the fridge door, when compared to a chest style refer.
Regardless of which style you go with, do upfront research on the power draw of all the units you're considering. Compressor refrigerators are most efficient when there is a good airflow over the condenser, and that often means adding in a small 12VDC computer fan that is on a thermostat. Keep the refer side of the camper shaded when ever possible. The cooler the exterior is kept, the less power consumed.
Our first popup had an 80 qt Dometic refrigerator that worked well, but was a power hog. You also lose more cold air every time you open the fridge door, when compared to a chest style refer.
Regardless of which style you go with, do upfront research on the power draw of all the units you're considering. Compressor refrigerators are most efficient when there is a good airflow over the condenser, and that often means adding in a small 12VDC computer fan that is on a thermostat. Keep the refer side of the camper shaded when ever possible. The cooler the exterior is kept, the less power consumed.
Motafinga
Adventurer
3000 bucks is a pretty high number to throw around as far as price of admission that's wa
y over double what I spent. Your camper already has a battery (or 2) I assume. The biggest Truckfridge model sells for 800 bucks shipped and I added a Renogy Briefcase solar for under 300 and it keeps my single drycell battery pretty much topped off since the fridge sips such little power. Whole investment was like 1150 bucks and the fridge rocks now. Just my 2cents
y over double what I spent. Your camper already has a battery (or 2) I assume. The biggest Truckfridge model sells for 800 bucks shipped and I added a Renogy Briefcase solar for under 300 and it keeps my single drycell battery pretty much topped off since the fridge sips such little power. Whole investment was like 1150 bucks and the fridge rocks now. Just my 2cents
Coachgeo
Explorer
NOT A GOOD IDEA https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HJMTQWWoMSw
Then there is off level heating wrong things in the tubes breaking down the coolant incorrectly which can also cause fires...... though there is a doo dad to help prevent that..More at http://www.doityourselfrv.com/prevent-rv-refrigerator-exploding-cant-level-rv/
adventr
Adventurer
I see a lot of you guys mentioning adding a cooling fan to the 3-way fridge? I think mine has that from the factory. It's got a switch installed on the fridge cabinet that reads ventilation fan and it seems to be on a thermostat or temp switch. After the fridge runs for a while, the fan will kick on. It's mounted behind the fridge over the heat exchanger.
While I would like to make the 3-way work, I don't think that it's right for me. If my driveway were perfectly level, then it may stand a chance. Without being able to run the fridge prior to trip departure, how am I supposed to cool it down before loading food into it? It cools down so slow that everything would be warm.
Prior to purchasing the camper, I had a smittybilt top loading fridge/freezer. It worked surprisingly well. Could turn it on and within minutes it would be cooled down.
My camper is a short bed with no overhang, floor space is at a premium. I don't want to run a top loading fridge as it would just take up valuable floor space. That's the reason for wanting to replace with another front loader.
If the darn 3-way would work on an incline, this thread wouldn't exist.
While I would like to make the 3-way work, I don't think that it's right for me. If my driveway were perfectly level, then it may stand a chance. Without being able to run the fridge prior to trip departure, how am I supposed to cool it down before loading food into it? It cools down so slow that everything would be warm.
Prior to purchasing the camper, I had a smittybilt top loading fridge/freezer. It worked surprisingly well. Could turn it on and within minutes it would be cooled down.
My camper is a short bed with no overhang, floor space is at a premium. I don't want to run a top loading fridge as it would just take up valuable floor space. That's the reason for wanting to replace with another front loader.
If the darn 3-way would work on an incline, this thread wouldn't exist.
bearman512
Adventurer
Coachgeo
My fuel tank fill point is on the opposite side of the camper and it is a diesel so no chance of any spark igniting diesel fuel.
The only way you will get a propane fire is if you have a leaky system and a fire bellowing out of the gas fill point below the propane tank and in this case there are a number of safeguards in the RV's propane system to prevent the tank from exploding it will only catch fire but with a gas tank fire you have a bigger problem.
Everyone has their safety margin and mine is to run with the propane on.
adventr:
Get yourself 2 sets of these and call it a day.
I am not being an ***** Coachgeo but this has been a campfire discussion for years and in the clip you provided this gentleman even states this as 50/50. There is no actual documentation of a propane fire starting while traveling down the road and for that matter the whole gas station thing is just like the cell phone starting a gas tank fire. GROUND YOURSELF and leave the phone in the vehicle so you can remind yourself to touch the vehicle before installing the gas nozzle.
My fuel tank fill point is on the opposite side of the camper and it is a diesel so no chance of any spark igniting diesel fuel.
The only way you will get a propane fire is if you have a leaky system and a fire bellowing out of the gas fill point below the propane tank and in this case there are a number of safeguards in the RV's propane system to prevent the tank from exploding it will only catch fire but with a gas tank fire you have a bigger problem.
Everyone has their safety margin and mine is to run with the propane on.
adventr:
Get yourself 2 sets of these and call it a day.
zidaro
Explorer
Watching this thread.
Just did a full overhaul on my Dometic in my Northstar. Seems to be working efficiently again. But I'm not trusting it like i used to
Im very anal about leveling it when bedding down for the night, but during daytime use while traveling we certainly have it parked out of level. It has always worked fairly well, and infact is sometimes difficult to regulate it from freezing bottom shelf veggies. Then something changed and it no longer cooled.
I went the cheap route and did maintenance, though i was very tempted to ditch it and go DC. I already have solar and it is an amazing sense of freedom.
Think it was just a dirty flu pipe, but i changed and tuned the burner assembly anyway- as i said, seems to be fixed.
Lets hear more about those DanFoss Fridge options. I have an ARB 50Q and love it, but no freezer portion. How well does the freezer portion work on the TruckFridge 130?
Just did a full overhaul on my Dometic in my Northstar. Seems to be working efficiently again. But I'm not trusting it like i used to
Im very anal about leveling it when bedding down for the night, but during daytime use while traveling we certainly have it parked out of level. It has always worked fairly well, and infact is sometimes difficult to regulate it from freezing bottom shelf veggies. Then something changed and it no longer cooled.
I went the cheap route and did maintenance, though i was very tempted to ditch it and go DC. I already have solar and it is an amazing sense of freedom.
Think it was just a dirty flu pipe, but i changed and tuned the burner assembly anyway- as i said, seems to be fixed.
Lets hear more about those DanFoss Fridge options. I have an ARB 50Q and love it, but no freezer portion. How well does the freezer portion work on the TruckFridge 130?
zidaro
Explorer
I will add- i always drive in propane mode. It works great. Assuming you have your burner protected from wind.
If there was a source for a large leak right next to your flame source, or you had some very combustable material in close proximity to a flame source- maybe you could have an ignition point.
Your more likely to have a problem with ignition of a leak when sitting in stagnate air in camp, when the gas has an opportunity to accumulate. The wind from driving should dissipate fuel very quickly.
If there was a source for a large leak right next to your flame source, or you had some very combustable material in close proximity to a flame source- maybe you could have an ignition point.
Your more likely to have a problem with ignition of a leak when sitting in stagnate air in camp, when the gas has an opportunity to accumulate. The wind from driving should dissipate fuel very quickly.
Coachgeo
Explorer
My concern would not so much so be "while traveling down the road" but in an accident, trail flop etc. In general though, still should be mentioned so user can become aware then decide on their own based on information. Besides 50/50; IMHO, that your going to catch on fire...... is not good odds to play with.
bearman512
Adventurer
No problem Coachgeo this is why we have these forums so people can make their own decisions.
jackattack
Observer
Out of curiosity, did you seal up the fridge vents when you installed the TF?
Motafinga
Adventurer
Nope, would there be some potential advantage of doing this? I figured it would be a bonus that they are there already. My buddy FWC has a stock compressor fridge and it has outside vents fwiw
jackattack
Observer
I've been doing research to upgrade my Alaskan as well. From what I've read the compressor fridges don't require the same amount of ventilation but do benefit from additional insulation.