4.88 vs. 4.56 in a 2006
- Thread starter Redline
- Start date
Redline
Likes to Drive and Ride
Agreed.
Since there is not much difference between 4.56 and 4.88 and it's so expensive to do the swap (with ARB lockers) it was better to error on the side of low than high. In addition, my Crawler was already geared very tall with 3.73 and 255 tires.
Though if I was going to drive freeway-fast often I might have second thoughts when it comes to the 4.56 gears. In a week or so I will make a fast freeway road trip to southern California, about 550-miles each way. I plan to drive the speed limit (75-MPH) or a little more, and expect my fuel economy to suffer :roost:
Since there is not much difference between 4.56 and 4.88 and it's so expensive to do the swap (with ARB lockers) it was better to error on the side of low than high. In addition, my Crawler was already geared very tall with 3.73 and 255 tires.
Though if I was going to drive freeway-fast often I might have second thoughts when it comes to the 4.56 gears. In a week or so I will make a fast freeway road trip to southern California, about 550-miles each way. I plan to drive the speed limit (75-MPH) or a little more, and expect my fuel economy to suffer :roost:
tacollie said:
mr.trd
Adventurer
Since I do drive mine on the highway alot, but I love being geared really really low off road, I think I may be leaning towards 4.56's and then that gives me an excuse for a lefty or a crawlbox. And wow did all this just get spendy going with my ideal route. Supercharger, 4.56's, front ARB, lefty or crawl box......Damn looks like I need a new job that makes some money.....cause my short list is still front bumper, new sliders, snorkel, and new tires.
tacollie
Glamper
Thats why I bought a welder instead of a bumper and why I would go 4.88s. 4.56, SC, and crawler in a world where I make more money would be sweet. In this on I will put those extras bucks towards getting out of town.
Redline
Likes to Drive and Ride
I did some faster freeway driving for a short time this past weekend, 75+.
If I was going to drive a steady 75-80 MPH on a regular basis then I would think the slightly lower RPM with 4.56 (about 175-RPM @ 75) may be worth the loss of torque & pulling power.
If I was going to drive a steady 75-80 MPH on a regular basis then I would think the slightly lower RPM with 4.56 (about 175-RPM @ 75) may be worth the loss of torque & pulling power.
mr.trd
Adventurer
thanks. My truck is our long haul road trip vehicle since it has way more room than the E36. And my family is all over so long road trips are not uncommon. I think 4.56's may be the ticket. Anyone know how the 4.56's are without a supercharger? Tranny still downshift like crazy?
Redline
Likes to Drive and Ride
I think a few people over on the Toyota120.com forum have 4.56 gears in their 4th Gen. 4Runners. You might look at the threads over there 
tacollie
Glamper
Still happy with the 4.88s? I don't think the possible gain in economy with 4.56s is worth it. I want to drive into a phone pole every time it downshifts unexpectedly so I don't think I will risk it.
Redline
Likes to Drive and Ride
Very happy.
A couple weeks ago I drove to southern Cal. fast & empty about 550-miles one way. I was driving 75+ MPH much of the way. The 4Runner weighs 5,500-lbs without me in it. The Toyota was shod with Cooper ST 255/85R16s with 35-PSI.
In the two fill-ups getting to L.A. I obtained #1) 13.69-MPG #2) 14.85 -MPG
Returning, towing a 2000-lb utility trailer, again 75+ much of the way when traffic and weather conditions allowed: fill-ups #1) 10.84-MPG #2) 10.58-MPG #3) 11.75-MPG
All the while I had plenty or toque and power for mountain climbing. The engine never seems unhappy and it’s not louder than my tires.
If one was only going to run a LT265/75R16 (31.6-32.0”) then maybe 4.56 is the right call. For me with weight, hills, altitude and towing, the 4.88s were the right choice. Show me another 4Runner that can fly up mountain passes pulling a 7,500-lb trailer ☺
Redline
A couple weeks ago I drove to southern Cal. fast & empty about 550-miles one way. I was driving 75+ MPH much of the way. The 4Runner weighs 5,500-lbs without me in it. The Toyota was shod with Cooper ST 255/85R16s with 35-PSI.
In the two fill-ups getting to L.A. I obtained #1) 13.69-MPG #2) 14.85 -MPG
Returning, towing a 2000-lb utility trailer, again 75+ much of the way when traffic and weather conditions allowed: fill-ups #1) 10.84-MPG #2) 10.58-MPG #3) 11.75-MPG
All the while I had plenty or toque and power for mountain climbing. The engine never seems unhappy and it’s not louder than my tires.
If one was only going to run a LT265/75R16 (31.6-32.0”) then maybe 4.56 is the right call. For me with weight, hills, altitude and towing, the 4.88s were the right choice. Show me another 4Runner that can fly up mountain passes pulling a 7,500-lb trailer ☺
Redline
FireGuy
Adventurer
Redline,
First thanks for posting so much info about your 4Runner. It is a huge resource to those of us who are slowly building ours. Two questions. How are you liking having the front locker? Are you using it much? 2009 will be the year of gears and lockers for me. I'm just wondering how much I really need a front locker when I will have the rear locked plus ATRAC?
I do not tow at all, so would you recommend me staying with 4.56 gears with the 255's? My rig is starting to get heavy, and will get even heavier when I add the rear bumper and skids. I'm only at about 2,000 ft elevation and the 4Runner sees mostly highway miles each day. MPG is a concern, every little bit helps.
First thanks for posting so much info about your 4Runner. It is a huge resource to those of us who are slowly building ours. Two questions. How are you liking having the front locker? Are you using it much? 2009 will be the year of gears and lockers for me. I'm just wondering how much I really need a front locker when I will have the rear locked plus ATRAC?
I do not tow at all, so would you recommend me staying with 4.56 gears with the 255's? My rig is starting to get heavy, and will get even heavier when I add the rear bumper and skids. I'm only at about 2,000 ft elevation and the 4Runner sees mostly highway miles each day. MPG is a concern, every little bit helps.
tacollie
Glamper
Thanks. That is a big help. My truck is slowly turning into a pig, in fact it is substantially heavier than the iron pig
. I figure my milage might not go up but the load on the engine and tranny will be a lot less. I went to kansas doing 70-75 averaged 17 on my way and 11 coming back. Guess which way the wind was blowing. I don't think I am going to get the locker, just gears.
Redline
Likes to Drive and Ride
I thought I had posted all the RPM numbers in 4th and 5th but went back trough the tread and couldn't find it... maybe it is in one of the tire threads? In my log book?
I had all this information at my fingertips at one time but seem to have lost it. The true RPM @ XX MPH is very close the what I had calculated with online gearing calculators using a 33” tire before having the swap performed. I want to say that 65-MPH is about 2800-3,000-RPM in 4th/direct but my memory might be fuzzy? When there are big hills that need 4th the RPM is higher yet seem perfect for the pull. Then engine is really happy and eager to pull near its peak torque and as noted there is less load on the transmission.
Even when not towing I'm still very happy with the 4.88s. Like most people, most of my miles are not towing nor on an overland trip. As stated earlier, I generally drive 65-70 MPH, but even at higher speeds I can stay in 5th/overdrive (or stay in 5th longer) when pulling hills that would require a down shift or two with tall gears. Low gears often allow one to use a higher gear in the tranny.
‘Maybe’ if I was going to run 265/75s I might consider 4.56 gears, but I’m not convinced that for my use (weight/altitude/towing) that everything is not better with 4.88s. If you are going to run a 31-32” tire with less weight, then re-gearing with 4.56s may be right. I personally love how the 255/85R16 size performs and looks on the 4Runner and see little reason to run a shorter tire, particularly now that I have the gears I need to pull just about anything.
Regarding the front locker
As many people know the front locker is a nice feature but generally not needed or used as much as a rear diff lock. I have used mine enough that I’m very glad I have it. The ARB is an expensive part put while in for surgery it only made sense to do it.
This Mall Crawler is my first real experience with IFS. I love the car but IFS certainly puts a front tire in the air much more than the live axles I’m accustomed to. ATRAC does a great job for the occasional wheel lift put the front diff lock is hard to beat when it is needed/wanted. I’m starting to lean toward the view that others have stated that on an IFS truck with only on diff lock it may be better to lock the front as the rear stays planted so much better.
I’m very glad I have both ARBs and that I modified them to work independently (no need for the rear to be locked for the front to work).
Though I love my little V8 and almost all of my set-up, if my Mall Crawler was to get totaled I would likely buy a new 2009 V6 with the factory rear locker and ATRAC, then think long and hard about tire size, gearing, weight, and the NEED for a front locker.
I had all this information at my fingertips at one time but seem to have lost it. The true RPM @ XX MPH is very close the what I had calculated with online gearing calculators using a 33” tire before having the swap performed. I want to say that 65-MPH is about 2800-3,000-RPM in 4th/direct but my memory might be fuzzy? When there are big hills that need 4th the RPM is higher yet seem perfect for the pull. Then engine is really happy and eager to pull near its peak torque and as noted there is less load on the transmission.
Even when not towing I'm still very happy with the 4.88s. Like most people, most of my miles are not towing nor on an overland trip. As stated earlier, I generally drive 65-70 MPH, but even at higher speeds I can stay in 5th/overdrive (or stay in 5th longer) when pulling hills that would require a down shift or two with tall gears. Low gears often allow one to use a higher gear in the tranny.
‘Maybe’ if I was going to run 265/75s I might consider 4.56 gears, but I’m not convinced that for my use (weight/altitude/towing) that everything is not better with 4.88s. If you are going to run a 31-32” tire with less weight, then re-gearing with 4.56s may be right. I personally love how the 255/85R16 size performs and looks on the 4Runner and see little reason to run a shorter tire, particularly now that I have the gears I need to pull just about anything.
Regarding the front locker
As many people know the front locker is a nice feature but generally not needed or used as much as a rear diff lock. I have used mine enough that I’m very glad I have it. The ARB is an expensive part put while in for surgery it only made sense to do it.
This Mall Crawler is my first real experience with IFS. I love the car but IFS certainly puts a front tire in the air much more than the live axles I’m accustomed to. ATRAC does a great job for the occasional wheel lift put the front diff lock is hard to beat when it is needed/wanted. I’m starting to lean toward the view that others have stated that on an IFS truck with only on diff lock it may be better to lock the front as the rear stays planted so much better.
I’m very glad I have both ARBs and that I modified them to work independently (no need for the rear to be locked for the front to work).
Though I love my little V8 and almost all of my set-up, if my Mall Crawler was to get totaled I would likely buy a new 2009 V6 with the factory rear locker and ATRAC, then think long and hard about tire size, gearing, weight, and the NEED for a front locker.