4.88's and 33's a good combo?

xcmountain80

Expedition Leader
I will be curious to see what you think about them. FWIW, I was not a fan when I ran my 4.88s with my 33s. I don't have any numbers for you...that's why I didn't post anything here or on YT. I just thought the RPMs were too high at highway speeds and hills were killing me. Low speeds and around town they were great. Once I went to 35s I felt like everything was closer to "normal".

I've taken this into consideration as the worst case scenario and I'll either pull them or add bigger tires but but but I'm sure 33's are where I want to be. What do you think about the claims associated with the 5.29's and 255 combo that was mentioned over on YT? My line of thinking is stock was 4.10 and I ran 285 BFG AT's with no complaints, once I switched to the 295 Nitto AT's and 285 Interco SSR's I noticed a greater difference in lets call it driveability. So from 4.10 to 4.56 the increase in ratio was .46 and the difference was dramatic from 4.56 to 4.88 the ratio of increased teeth is .32 while not as dramatic that is exactly what I hope for. Not dramatic difference but better than it currently is. Yes I could run smaller tires say a 285 Nitto but I really like the size I have not to mention their characteristics associated with this size.


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gearing

4.88 is not a very big difference coming from a 4.56, so you likely wont notice much of a change. With the deep OD in the AT, I'd do 5.29 if you are really that unhappy with the 4.56



Recently in my miles of travel I began to ponder if there was something better out there. I have a donor motor and




had planned on a SC but perhaps I should start at the other end first. It's not more power I need but better use of the power I have. I'm running 4.56 now with 295's (33.3"dia.) and while it's supposed to be stock with my 33's I have real problems climbing. Even last night in the hills of N. FL she just didn't want to maintain speed (I shed speed like a colander holds water). My question to those running 488's and 33's is #1 what is you actual fuel economy #2 how much quicker do you reach highway speed #3 would you do it again. This applies to those who have put many miles on the 488's both on road and off running auto tranny V-6 96-02. I've been told 5.29's are the new black but I don't feel like this fits my application. Now I Have a line on the 4.88's and they are saving me some money, I Have a front 3rd from a Tacoma with 4.88's already. I'm sure I can sell my loaded front third with 4.56's as well as the R&P out of the rear when I pull it. I will be pulling my rear 3rd and taking it to a shop to have the 4.88's installed there 1st so I can see if they help or hinder. Then I will swap my locker into the front third that (the one with the 4.88's already) and go from there if I'm happy with how tey turn out. Thoughts?



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TangoBlue

American Adventurist
See my sig for vehicle specs. I'm delighted I chose 5.29 - It feels like stock again (almost). It was gutless with the 4.56, downshifting for the slightest rise in elevation on the highway. I've since put a couple thousand highway and around a hundred off road (PA, TN, VA) so I'm very comfortabke with this change; and I've noted an increase in gas mileage as well from around 14-15 up to 18-20.
 

Nick02

Member
I run 4.88's with 32" tires, going 35" soon. 32's and 4.88's feel like a great combo for me! 70% is city 15% highway and the extra 10% offroad. I stick to 55-60mph max on freeways and highways, trucks pass me on level ground, but when a hill comes up, I have a clear speed advantage because of the gears!
I would have gone lower but nobody makes a gear lower then 4.88 for the dodge 9.25":coffee: you yota guys are lucky!

I think gear ratio should be chosen based on where you live! and how you drive! do you want more power or speed?

More speed= if you live in the flat country and have 33" tires (moastly highway miles) go with 4.56's, you'll save a lot of gas if you see 60+mph most of the time! you don't need fast acceleration!

More power= If you live in the city and or hilly area and see 50mph max 70% of the time (like myself) go 4.88's or lower with 33" tires. You'll save gas and your vehicle wont feel like a slug when the light turns green!
You're not gonna go over 50mph off road. Keep the speed 65mph on the highway to conserve gas!, take in the views and enjoy yourself, road trips are supposed to be fun!

If you're concerned about crawling, go with a lower transfer case ratio, twin stick anyone?:costumed-smiley-007
 
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xcmountain80

Expedition Leader
I run 4.88's with 32" tires, going 35" soon. 32's and 4.88's feel like a great combo for me! 70% is city 15% highway and the extra 10% offroad. I stick to 55-60mph max on freeways and highways, trucks pass me on level ground, but when a hill comes up, I have a clear speed advantage because of the gears!
I would have gone lower but nobody makes a gear lower then 4.88 for the dodge 9.25":coffee: you yota guys are lucky!

I think gear ratio should be chosen based on where you live! and how you drive! do you want more power or speed?

More speed= if you live in the flat country and have 33" tires (moastly highway miles) go with 4.56's, you'll save a lot of gas if you see 60+mph most of the time! you don't need fast acceleration!

More power= If you live in the city and or hilly area and see 50mph max 70% of the time (like myself) go 4.88's or lower with 33" tires. You'll save gas and your vehicle wont feel like a slug when the light turns green!
You're not gonna go over 50mph off road. Keep the speed 65mph on the highway to conserve gas!, take in the views and enjoy yourself, road trips are supposed to be fun!

If you're concerned about crawling, go with a lower transfer case ratio, twin stick anyone?:costumed-smiley-007

That's the most honest post I've gotten yet. Not to mention dead on about what may be expected with the gears. When people tell me you won't notice much I say " I drive my truck 30-50k a year and I notice every little thing, my vehicle and I are like one you know" anyhow I love the 4.88 in the hills and will need to take it easy on the flat lands to maintain mpg's but overall power increase is fantastic, while still not a 1/4 mile truck it will work just fine for my needs.

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bigreen505

Expedition Leader
Aaron, send a PM to Darren or visit his Web site. He runs 285s and 4.88. He made the jump for off road control knowing it would affect on road power/drivability and that is pretty much what it did, but he would not go back.

Personally I would go with 5.29s but most of my driving is in the mountains and most vehicles are under geared in stock form. I think there is some logic to looking at the speed you expect to be traveling/where you want to optimize, what engine RPM you want to be running at that speed and choose your gears accordingly. Stock vehicle gearing is based on many factors, none of which may be important to you.

Something else to consider is that as you go to a bigger ratio (e.g. 5.29), the ring gear becomes more fragile. Whether that is a problem for you depends on your driving style and the physical size of the ring gear. A Dana 60 5.29 is a lot bigger than a Suzuki Samurai 5.29.
 

TangoBlue

American Adventurist
Geography and primary operating area is an excellent point.

Another consideration is often posters referenced gear ratio charts do not take into account our Toyotas engine size, automatic transmissions with OD, increased weight of upsized, rough terrain tires, lift, armor, overland load plans, etc. They are guidelines and not formulas to be combined with experienced opinions and research before your "treasure" is expended on a re-gear.

"Mission analysis" - I built mine for how I intend to use it and I've been pleased with my results. YMMV.
 

xcmountain80

Expedition Leader
Yes yes and yes again, I Know it all depends and the charts were designed for or from Jeeps. I'm pretty sensitive to my vehicles changes and can determine the differences with given environments. I came to the conclusion I will have to run slower with the 4.88 (even slower with 5.29's) on the highway 65-72 to maintain under or at 2500 rpm's and get 18+ mpg. I'm willing to do this as the power/ torque has increased noticeably, while some may argue the 4.56 to 4.88 jump is unnoticeable the physics involved don't lie. My 4Runner should be at her optimal weight level (I don't see her getting much heavier, though that rear tire carrier is still an option) and the power is good while not super charger good it's what I expect from a 186-200HP motor has NA. Currently dealing with an evil transfer case shifter seat bushing thing that can't be sourced. http://www.yotatech.com/f2/3rd-gen-t-case-still-leaking-168915/

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bigreen505

Expedition Leader
=I came to the conclusion I will have to run slower with the 4.88 (even slower with 5.29's) on the highway 65-72 to maintain under or at 2500 rpm's and get 18+ mpg. [/url]

Unless you have numbers from a similar vehicle, I'm not sure I would take that bet. Sure, you will turning higher rpm with bigger gears, but the engine will not be working as hard. Just because you need to keep it under 2500 rpm for 18 mpg with your 4.56 gears does not mean that will hold true with 5.29. Check in with Darren or ask your question on a forum with more modded 4Runners. All we can do here is speculate.
 

TangoBlue

American Adventurist
My experience driving 900 miles from VA to IL, all interstate (64) at the state's posted speed limit, was that I averaged 19 mpg and my rpm was around 2700 IIRC. For the 3RZ that's right in the power band for most efficiency.

I too am one with the truck. Now that the kids are out of the house this is my baby; next to that woman that lives with me.;)

Of course i acknowledge the 6 cylinder and your platform is different. Just adding "corpus of knowledge" since others are reading will promulgate their own opinions.
 

xcmountain80

Expedition Leader
Well everything worked out and I am happy with the change! I can feel the power difference especially in the hills. Front diff will be ready soon as there was a problem from the 1st time my locker was installed a real hose job for not reading the installation manual that came with it. I will be driving a bit slower to in crease mpg ( and while some might say this too would have worked with the 4.56 I say yes but the power band is better) I am able to hold 72-76 passing uphill in the 1st stage of overdrive. Any of you that have a 5VZ know the overdrives are steep. If considering a large or true to size 33" I say 4.88 is the way on a Toyota platform.

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TangoBlue

American Adventurist
FWIW - I too believe you "chose wisely." I hope you get the front fixed soon. Wait till you take it off road and experience the power and control you have in 4WD - 4LO.

I was out today in some miserable slippery conditions in rainy VA near Richmond. In 4LO under complete control crawling up what many slid, skid, and lost traction on; it quite literally surprised me as I suspected the worst. The 'next best thing to a crawl box' I was thinking when slowly applying power through and over obstacles.
 

xcmountain80

Expedition Leader
The low end torque is noticeable, I know for folks who don't drive much they may find the change from 4.56 to 4.88 nearly undetectable but I purchased my 4Runner with 68k in Oct. of 05, it is now Oct. of 09 and there are 230k miles on the clock. I drive and drive and then drive some more. I needed to slow a bit anyway, someone said road trips are about what you see not how fast you get there.

Aaron
 

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