416 coming soon. I have ?'s

ZR2nit

ZR2nit

Adventurer
Update #1

Well like I stated I'm going to make this a build thread. Its going to take me awhile seeing how money is a little tight at the moment.

Okay so here is where I stand. I have taken the fenders off so I can media blast them just to see how bad they are. I got them both basted and he R/H one is in excellant shape. The L/H one has some bad rust but nothing I can't fix :) .

I also got a price on some steel. $60 for a 4x8 ft sheet of 16ga. and $75 for a 4x8 sheet of 14 gauge. Not bad prices if I do say so myself.

I also got a price quote on how much it would cost to get the frame and the tub media blasted. I have to outsource this one. It goes like this: $100 an hour for the media blasting. The guy looked at my trailer and told me they would have it done easily within a hour. The media blaster they have is capable of blasting 300+ cubic feet and hour and looks like a wand from a car wash. Its powered by a four cylinder engine. And to prime it to prevent it from "flash rusting" would be $75 for the frame and $50 for the tubs walls. So all in all this visit should only cost me $225. :) . I plan on having this done within the month.
 
ZR2nit

ZR2nit

Adventurer
I have a quick question though. I'm going to need two 4x8 sheets to be able to do the tub floor and a lid. My question is what gauge of steel should I buy?? 14 gauge, 16 gauge or some other type??

Thanks,
Marty
 
ntsqd

ntsqd

Heretic Car Camper
The best rust penetrator that I've used that is still available is PB Blaster. The old GM Goodwrench "Heat Valve Lubricant & Penetrating Oil" was as good or better, but I've not seen it in a long time. "Inox" is another that has worked well for me, but I don't particularly care for the smell (& my sniffer doesn't work real well).
It's probably heretical to say it, but WD-40 and Liquid Wrench have been left in the dust. The newer chemistries are so much better than I wonder how we ever got stuff loose in the past.

For the floor I would measure a non-rusted section and use that as the starting point for a replacement thickness.

Is the lid 'skin' going to have to support weight directly across a large span, or will there be a frame under it?
If there is to be a frame, what dimension will the parts be?
If directly weight bearing, what is the expected weight?
Do you plan to lift it up for access into the trailer's inside?
 
slosurfer

slosurfer

Adventurer
x's 2 on the PB Blaster. Start spraying the nuts and bolts today and everyday till you plan on working on it.

Congrats on the trailer.:clapsmile

Reminds me that I should get back to working on mine.:confused:
 
absolute

absolute

Adventurer
ZR2nit said:
I have a quick question though. I'm going to need two 4x8 sheets to be able to do the tub floor and a lid. My question is what gauge of steel should I buy?? 14 gauge, 16 gauge or some other type??

Thanks,
Marty
Click to expand...


Marty,
I would use 14 or thicker on the floor. I'm not sure what was factory as my "416" is a home brew knock off, and my floor is super thick! For the lid I was thinking of using 16 or 18 haven't fully decided as I've been super busy lately!

That is a great looking trailer and I'll be check back frequently to watch the build!

Nick
 
ZR2nit

ZR2nit

Adventurer
Yeah I paln on having a frame under the lid for support. I'm using some other peoples ideas on homw they did there lids. It will be able to lift up to have access to the bed.

You guys think I should go thicker on the floor huh??? What size thickness?? I have some spare 1/4in steel plate but I think thats to big???Any reccomendations???

Thanks,
Marty
 
C

Cruiser

Adventurer
If your looking for metal for the floor and want to keep it kinda light but tough,, try looking for a pickup bed,, cut the ribbed floor out of one and use that to skin the bed. It wont have the factory drains but at first glance they look factory.. And sometimes you can find them close to free..
 
ZR2nit

ZR2nit

Adventurer
Tub???

I have a quick question. How do you take the tub off of a M416 trailer??? I took the fenders off and I unscrewed the 4 bolts (two on the side near the forward part of the tub, and the two at the rear) but how do I separate the floor from the frame????

Any help is greatly appreciated.

Marty
 
Last edited:
ZR2nit

ZR2nit

Adventurer
4 more bolts??? Where....

I found the Tech. Manual for the M416. Its says that there are a total of 8 screws that hold the body to the frame. As previously mentioned I have on;y un-bolted 4. Where are the other 4 bolts located at?? The Manual was a bit vague as to where all the bolts are located. Anyone have some insight???

Thanks,
Marty
 
C

Cruiser

Adventurer
There are bolts around the outside of the tub on tabs that overhang onto the frame, also I believe there is a couple underneath too but I'm unsure on them.. I can check tomorrow and post a pic of mine if that helps?
Steve
 
IH8RDS

IH8RDS

Explorer
Two front, two back and 4 on the sides. If I remember corectly. The two front are underneath. Two of the side ones are in the wheel well.
 
ZR2nit

ZR2nit

Adventurer
IH8RDS,

If you do not mind could you please take a pic. of the bolts on the side of the tub. My thanks goes out to everyone how is helping me. Sorry I haven't posted a pic. yet there just isn't much to post. I will post a pic though when I get the bed off.
 
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