austintaco
Explorer
Is the FP longer than the bed of the truck or is it the other way around?
4runner+Flippac
- Thread starter thebrassnuckles
- Start date
thebrassnuckles
Explorer
The FP is longer.
I pulled the topper off last night and I found that the leading edge of the 4Runner is a curve, so it slightly complicates the plan. but not much.
BIGdaddy
Expedition Leader
Keep it up, brother!!!!!:wings::wings:
This is a great idea, using a great platform. Take your time, and I think you'll be VERY stoked at the results.
Cheers,
Brian
thebrassnuckles
Explorer
I hope so, when I was pulling the factory topper off last night, I uh, did it by myself...
yeah, it fell of the side of the bed and came slamming down on the rear corner of the bed and cracked the factory top...
oops...:Wow1:
but the top already had a bunch of cracks in it on the back where the window slides in.. but its not too bad.. besides, I dont think I would have ever wanted to put it back on once I get the flippac installed, cause who in their right mind wants to pull off a heavy top to put another heavy topback on.. guess its just motivation to make a soft top too..:smiley_drive:
payday is this week so maybe this weekend after I get back from fresno I can do a bit of work.
I also found that the inside rails of the 4runner are 53-1/4"
and the inside of the lip on the rails of the flippac are 53-1/2" so I'll probably have to redo those too.. I was planning on reinforcing them anyways, I'll just cut off the lip that is on there and reform it more narrow. aint no thang:ylsmoke:
yeah, it fell of the side of the bed and came slamming down on the rear corner of the bed and cracked the factory top...
oops...:Wow1:
but the top already had a bunch of cracks in it on the back where the window slides in.. but its not too bad.. besides, I dont think I would have ever wanted to put it back on once I get the flippac installed, cause who in their right mind wants to pull off a heavy top to put another heavy topback on.. guess its just motivation to make a soft top too..:smiley_drive:
payday is this week so maybe this weekend after I get back from fresno I can do a bit of work.
I also found that the inside rails of the 4runner are 53-1/4"
and the inside of the lip on the rails of the flippac are 53-1/2" so I'll probably have to redo those too.. I was planning on reinforcing them anyways, I'll just cut off the lip that is on there and reform it more narrow. aint no thang:ylsmoke:
thebrassnuckles
Explorer
So I'm standing in my garage lookin at my 4runner, and the top I took off it and I thought, How reasonable would it be to take the factory top and slice and dice the whole rail mounting interface off it, and graft it onto the flippac? it would save me having to fab up some kind of seal, as its already made, my top is broken..(not really all that bad, but if i get the flippac done I wont be wanting to switch between tops, it'd be either on or offf.)
I'll have to call my local fiberglass expert..
I'll have to call my local fiberglass expert..
Toyotero
Explorer
So I'm standing in my garage lookin at my 4runner, and the top I took off it and I thought, How reasonable would it be to take the factory top and slice and dice the whole rail mounting interface off it, and graft it onto the flippac? it would save me having to fab up some kind of seal, as its already made, my top is broken..(not really all that bad, but if i get the flippac done I wont be wanting to switch between tops, it'd be either on or offf.)
I'll have to call my local fiberglass expert..
I was about to make that same suggestion... totally do-able... it'll be a lot of work but less than making it from scratch and probably with better results.
Take lots of photos, this could turn into an epic build
thebrassnuckles
Explorer
I had a reply all typed out lastnight, but the malware warning shut that down....
so, lets try again,
I have thought of 3 options:
1. build a plywood interface structure, and glass overthat and attache it to the flippac
2. chop the topper, and graft it to the flippac
3. Mask off and glass the bed trails and graft that to the flippac, essentioally the same as #2 but minus the destruction of the factory topper just in case.
I think 3 will end up being the cleanest, ad least amount of work, plus if everything goes to hell I can still put the factory top on there..
so, lets try again,
I have thought of 3 options:
1. build a plywood interface structure, and glass overthat and attache it to the flippac
2. chop the topper, and graft it to the flippac
3. Mask off and glass the bed trails and graft that to the flippac, essentioally the same as #2 but minus the destruction of the factory topper just in case.
I think 3 will end up being the cleanest, ad least amount of work, plus if everything goes to hell I can still put the factory top on there..
Ruined Adventures
Brenton Cooper
This thread really got me wishing Flip-Pac had an option that fit a 1st gen 4runner so I sent an email a while back to inquire...Totally forgot about it, then this showed up in my inbox today:
"Hi, my name is Diane. im the flip-pac sales representative. I'd be glad to help you if you give me a call at 1-800-327-5836 m-f 9-5 . these are our current prices for Flip-Pacs. if any customizing is necessary (ex. non standard truck bed) , then there will be additional charges.
All mini-bed trucks (<6' box-size) - $3850.00 + tax
All short-beds ( 6'6" box) - $3950.00 + tax
All long-beds (8' box) - $4250.00 + tax"
You'd be looking at $4k+ for a custom FlipPac that fit a 1G 4runner. I can't justify that price...maybe at another point in life. Just figured I'd pass this on to the others who'd be interested. Now we know they'll at least entertain the idea. :victory:
thebrassknuckles, how's the DIY version going?
"Hi, my name is Diane. im the flip-pac sales representative. I'd be glad to help you if you give me a call at 1-800-327-5836 m-f 9-5 . these are our current prices for Flip-Pacs. if any customizing is necessary (ex. non standard truck bed) , then there will be additional charges.
All mini-bed trucks (<6' box-size) - $3850.00 + tax
All short-beds ( 6'6" box) - $3950.00 + tax
All long-beds (8' box) - $4250.00 + tax"
You'd be looking at $4k+ for a custom FlipPac that fit a 1G 4runner. I can't justify that price...maybe at another point in life. Just figured I'd pass this on to the others who'd be interested. Now we know they'll at least entertain the idea. :victory:
thebrassknuckles, how's the DIY version going?
thebrassnuckles
Explorer
I thought I had replied to this.. oh well..
As of right now, I have doen.... nothing..
I am waiting on a torsion bar from FRP, they said itd be another 4 weeks...:Wow1:
I have found out how to remove the flip portion of the shell, have sourced my glassing materials.
I have been reading up on fiberglass repair and construction.
I have been developing a plan for the cab to shell interface.
I may be taking a job across the country so.. I either need to crank this baby out or drop it for now.. the job starts in mid December..
I am leaning towards the former..
As of right now, I have doen.... nothing..
I am waiting on a torsion bar from FRP, they said itd be another 4 weeks...:Wow1:
I have found out how to remove the flip portion of the shell, have sourced my glassing materials.
I have been reading up on fiberglass repair and construction.
I have been developing a plan for the cab to shell interface.
I may be taking a job across the country so.. I either need to crank this baby out or drop it for now.. the job starts in mid December..
I am leaning towards the former..
expedition4x4
Explorer
might be an easier undertaking to extend the bed of the 4runner
thebrassnuckles
Explorer
I have thought of this, but I would still need to fabricate the cab to shell junction..
that and extending the bed an additional 8" would greatly increase my departure angle, uless I extended before the rear wheel, and stretched the wheelbase, but that would be a huge undertaking, costing millions of dollars and thousands of lives.
and it would increase my already gigantic (coming from a former tj driver) turning radius.
I think that modifying the FP would be the best balance between ease, cost and offroad performance.
even easier would be to slap the dang thing on a trailer and call it done....
but that wouldnt be as sweet...
tanglefoot
ExPoseur
I was planning on putting a Wildernest (another tent-shell but it folds out to the side) on the 4runner for a while. I was just going to trim the front wall out of the shell leaving a bit of seam for strength, slide it onto the 4runner and seal the gap with foam. I have had a regular pick-up shell on the 4runner before and did the same thing. It wasn't professional looking, but perfectly functional.
I went a different crazy route instead and put a pop-up camper in it. It's pushed up to the back of the cab as close as it will go and then sealed with expanding foam. Again, not pretty, but functional.
Here it is with an aluminum truck shell on it and regular pick-up shell clamps to hold it on. I just cut small rectangular holes in the bedside interior paneling for the clamps. When 4-wheeling around Telluride, I slid the shell back a few feet and tightened the clamps so my passengers had an open-air view. As soon as the storm clouds started threatening, I'd slide the shell forward again and seal things up. The front edge of the shell had a length of copper pipe foam insulation over it that compressed between the shell and back of the cab for a nice seal.
Here it is with the current camper (and different paint). This time I'm using expanding foam (Great Stuff) between the camper and cab.
With a 1st gen 'runner, the possibilities are endless! Good luck with the project!
Eric
I went a different crazy route instead and put a pop-up camper in it. It's pushed up to the back of the cab as close as it will go and then sealed with expanding foam. Again, not pretty, but functional.
Here it is with an aluminum truck shell on it and regular pick-up shell clamps to hold it on. I just cut small rectangular holes in the bedside interior paneling for the clamps. When 4-wheeling around Telluride, I slid the shell back a few feet and tightened the clamps so my passengers had an open-air view. As soon as the storm clouds started threatening, I'd slide the shell forward again and seal things up. The front edge of the shell had a length of copper pipe foam insulation over it that compressed between the shell and back of the cab for a nice seal.
Here it is with the current camper (and different paint). This time I'm using expanding foam (Great Stuff) between the camper and cab.
With a 1st gen 'runner, the possibilities are endless! Good luck with the project!
Eric
Last edited:
thebrassnuckles
Explorer
I'VE DONE IT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!:wings:
Finally formulated a plan for creating the cab to FP junction that is..
after many terrible sketch drawings on my little notepad here at work, I have developed a plan that I feel will be the best compromise between time, cost, and function.
I am going to cut the FP to the required length, attach a cardboar template to the outside of the FP and 4runner, cover everything I dont want stuck with tape or some other non-permeable covering, and get inside and start glassing.
to start will be a layer of chopped mat, resin, a cloth tape, resin, mat, resin and then possibly this real heavy cloth that the boat shop has, resin and some more mat, until I feel like its had enough, then I'll remove the cardboard from the outside, see what kind of finish is on the exterior, and grind down the seam on the outside a bit, and put some more resin and mat on the seam of new/old glass on the outside, and then sand, and prime and paint...
I think that will work.
so the structure will be all fiberglass, I will be using the actual mounting surfaces of the 4runner as the mold, so there should be minimal fitment issues. Hopefully the cardboard will give a pretty good finish on the outside so I wont have to do too much sanding to get a smooth finish, and the seam will be reinforced from both sides for the most strength.
any fiberglass gurus know if my plan will fail miserably?
if there are no issures with the plan, all I need to do is find a couple of strong friends to help me move the FP, and remove the top part. and get to it.:bike_rider:
so I'm hoping next weekend I'll be starting.. (unless the wife has something she really needs done..)
Finally formulated a plan for creating the cab to FP junction that is..
after many terrible sketch drawings on my little notepad here at work, I have developed a plan that I feel will be the best compromise between time, cost, and function.
I am going to cut the FP to the required length, attach a cardboar template to the outside of the FP and 4runner, cover everything I dont want stuck with tape or some other non-permeable covering, and get inside and start glassing.
to start will be a layer of chopped mat, resin, a cloth tape, resin, mat, resin and then possibly this real heavy cloth that the boat shop has, resin and some more mat, until I feel like its had enough, then I'll remove the cardboard from the outside, see what kind of finish is on the exterior, and grind down the seam on the outside a bit, and put some more resin and mat on the seam of new/old glass on the outside, and then sand, and prime and paint...
I think that will work.
so the structure will be all fiberglass, I will be using the actual mounting surfaces of the 4runner as the mold, so there should be minimal fitment issues. Hopefully the cardboard will give a pretty good finish on the outside so I wont have to do too much sanding to get a smooth finish, and the seam will be reinforced from both sides for the most strength.
any fiberglass gurus know if my plan will fail miserably?
if there are no issures with the plan, all I need to do is find a couple of strong friends to help me move the FP, and remove the top part. and get to it.:bike_rider:
so I'm hoping next weekend I'll be starting.. (unless the wife has something she really needs done..)
Ursa Minor
Active member
cardboard etc.
Ok, here are some old fiberglass tricks that may save some time on your fabrication -
You can use cardboard as a template on the outside, but it's going to absorb the resin and soften and will be a mess to sand off.
You might try some 1/8" door skin from Home Depot or similar. Get some spray adhesive, like 3M 77, while you're still at Home Depot. Once you've got your template cut to size, spray it with the 77 glue and cover it with aluminum foil. You can also glue foil to cardboard. Apply the foil as smooth as you can get it since that's going to be surface you get on your part. When it's smooth, get a solid layer of automotive wax on it, leave the wax "cloudy", don't wipe it off (like you would on your car) That wax will keep your resin from sticking to the template. You can also wax up your 4runner anywhere you might get resin for the same reason.
Before mixing up a big pot of resin, I do a test run on a 1' x 1' sheet of scrap template - ie, foil, wax, then lay up the part like you think you want it - all the layers etc. that way you know how long you have before the resin cures, and how thick it'll come out. Do this in the same orientation as your part will be, so if you're laying up a wall, have the plate vertical clamped in your vise maybe. You'll see if you need to thicken the resin so it won't run off too fast.
For an odd job like this where I don't know how much resin I need, I set up several 1 quart buckets/cups with resin in them but NOT catalized. Then as you get into the lamination, when you run out of one cup dump the catalyst in the next cup and mix and keep going. If you mix up a gallon or two in a big bucket, it's going to cure faster and if you get stuck somewhere you're going waste whatever is left..and I am always messier when I am rushing to finish before the pot goes off.
Thin cloths are easier on vertical walls as they wet faster and won't leave big voids. if you get a couple layers on, you can pull the FlipPac off and do the rest off the truck with it upside down which might be more pleasant working conditions.
Try to rough cut all your cloth to the size or in small sections before starting, it's so much easier to cut dry than covered with resin. Chop is better for corners, but several light layers are going to be easier than one heavy one to do any contours.
Good luck - I knew a guy with a wildernest who mounted it to his 4runner pretty much like you're doing.
cheers, John
Ok, here are some old fiberglass tricks that may save some time on your fabrication -
You can use cardboard as a template on the outside, but it's going to absorb the resin and soften and will be a mess to sand off.
You might try some 1/8" door skin from Home Depot or similar. Get some spray adhesive, like 3M 77, while you're still at Home Depot. Once you've got your template cut to size, spray it with the 77 glue and cover it with aluminum foil. You can also glue foil to cardboard. Apply the foil as smooth as you can get it since that's going to be surface you get on your part. When it's smooth, get a solid layer of automotive wax on it, leave the wax "cloudy", don't wipe it off (like you would on your car) That wax will keep your resin from sticking to the template. You can also wax up your 4runner anywhere you might get resin for the same reason.
Before mixing up a big pot of resin, I do a test run on a 1' x 1' sheet of scrap template - ie, foil, wax, then lay up the part like you think you want it - all the layers etc. that way you know how long you have before the resin cures, and how thick it'll come out. Do this in the same orientation as your part will be, so if you're laying up a wall, have the plate vertical clamped in your vise maybe. You'll see if you need to thicken the resin so it won't run off too fast.
For an odd job like this where I don't know how much resin I need, I set up several 1 quart buckets/cups with resin in them but NOT catalized. Then as you get into the lamination, when you run out of one cup dump the catalyst in the next cup and mix and keep going. If you mix up a gallon or two in a big bucket, it's going to cure faster and if you get stuck somewhere you're going waste whatever is left..and I am always messier when I am rushing to finish before the pot goes off.
Thin cloths are easier on vertical walls as they wet faster and won't leave big voids. if you get a couple layers on, you can pull the FlipPac off and do the rest off the truck with it upside down which might be more pleasant working conditions.
Try to rough cut all your cloth to the size or in small sections before starting, it's so much easier to cut dry than covered with resin. Chop is better for corners, but several light layers are going to be easier than one heavy one to do any contours.
Good luck - I knew a guy with a wildernest who mounted it to his 4runner pretty much like you're doing.
cheers, John