7K of USA

[Colorado_Outback]

I have tow insurance on my auto policy so ill get reimbursed 100% of the cost.

Really wished this thing was an auto, when I got home I had my buddy hold the clutch down with the e brake on and I crawled under there and shorted the starter and it started right up.

Really need to get a tool kit going for this truck.

 

[Colorado_Outback]

My ignition switch swap has turned into a full blown column swap. Something in between the ignition switch and the key is broken/slipping. turning the key doesn't move the ignition switch like it should.. Pics to follow.

 

[Larry]

My ignition switch swap has turned into a full blown column swap. Something in between the ignition switch and the key is broken/slipping. turning the key doesn't move the ignition switch like it should.. Pics to follow.

When you mentioned it had an ignition switch problem the other day I had my doubts that was the problem. What I suspect is the actual issue is the rack and rod that runs from the key and tumbler down to the the ignition switch is out of time, or broken. That is very common when people take these Saginaw columns apart to tighten up the loose tilt mechanism. Most people have no clue how to fix these Saginaw columns without causing more issues to them. Rack and rods usually don't just break or go out of time until someone gets into the column for a different reason like to tighten the tilt mechanism.

You can bring me the column and I’ll fix it for you at no charge if like. I’ve been working on Saginaw steering columns for over 20 years. It just so happens I also have a 88-94 tilt manual trans column on COS CL right now for $300 if you would like to buy that one if you still need one. It is left over from a manual to auto swap I recently did in my father in-laws truck. It is in perfect shape where I've already gone through it and tightened everything up.

 

[Colorado_Outback]

When you mentioned it had an ignition switch problem the other day I had my doubts that was the problem. What I suspect is the actual issue is the rack and rod that runs from the key and tumbler down to the the ignition switch is out of time, or broken. That is very common when people take these Saginaw columns apart to tighten up the loose tilt mechanism. Most people have no clue how to fix these Saginaw columns without causing more issues to them. Rack and rods usually don't just break or go out of time until someone gets into the column for a different reason like to tighten the tilt mechanism.

You can bring me the column and I'll fix it for you at no charge if like. I've been working on Saginaw steering columns for over 20 years. It just so happens I also have a 88-94 tilt manual trans column on COS CL right now for $300 if you would like to buy that one if you still need one. It is left over from a manual to auto swap I recently did in my father in-laws truck. It is in perfect shape where I've already gone through it and tightened everything up.

That's exactly what the problem was. Someone has been in there at some point, I found the original lock cyl in the back.
I went to pull and pay today, no manual columns but I found a low mileage auto and pulled it, removed the auto lever and swapped my ignition cyl and new ignition switch. Its started every time so far and the key feels completely different than the old column so hopefully that will solve my issues.

Also found new cluster trim, the screw pegs for my headlight switch were all broken on mine.

I recently put in my two weeks at my production welding job to pursue my precision TIG/ CNC Plasma cutting business full time other wise I would take you up on that column, tilt would be nice.

Going to have to calm down on the project spending the next 6mos or so to make it happen.

Edit: Test drive went well, all positions on the ignition work when you select them, good enough for now.

 

[Colorado_Outback]

Sad times.. This old girl uses a lot of oil, about 3.5qts in 400 or so miles. I knew it was tired when I test drove it, oil pressure on the gauge rarely brakes 40 regardless of RPM but I wasn't expecting it to consume that much.

 

[chilliwak]

I like your truck Colorado. Sorry to hear about the high oil consumption. Maybe its time for that motor swap soon? Best of luck to you. Cheers, Chilli...

 

[Colorado_Outback]

I like your truck Colorado. Sorry to hear about the high oil consumption. Maybe its time for that motor swap soon? Best of luck to you. Cheers, Chilli...

Thanks Chilli, I just checked out your build. I dig your paint job!

I'm going to try to baby it for another year or so while I save for that 6.0.

 

[Larry]

Thanks Chilli, I just checked out your build. I dig your paint job!

I'm going to try to baby it for another year or so while I save for that 6.0.

Yeah, that is a pisser it turned out to be an oiloholic. The 5.7L in my Burb is the same way…. top off the oil and check the gas before going anywhere. On a truck as big as yours you may want to reconsider that 6.0L. A big truck with a big camper at high altitude will need an engine with more balls than a 6.0L can deliver. Prolly ought to consider a Cummins or late model big block like my 8.1L’s. Contrary to popular belief there is no fuel savings by going with a smaller engine rather than a big block when you are talking a truck as big as this. Little engines will work their butts off and end up consuming more fuel than a big block just to propel and keep that beast propelled. An 8.1L is an easier swap than a 6.0L anyway. The 6.0L is a HP engine that doesn’t muster up any usable torque until you spin the piss out of it while the 8.1L is a torque engine making over 300 lb. ft of torque at idle and peaks out over 500 lb. ft. at under 4,000 RPM. Low end torque is what you want in a big truck, not high RPM race car HP unless your mud racing :costumed-smiley-007

 

[Colorado_Outback]

Yeah, that is a pisser it turned out to be an oiloholic. The 5.7L in my Burb is the same way…. top off the oil and check the gas before going anywhere. On a truck as big as yours you may want to reconsider that 6.0L. A big truck with a big camper at high altitude will need an engine with more balls than a 6.0L can deliver. Prolly ought to consider a Cummins or late model big block like my 8.1L’s. Contrary to popular belief there is no fuel savings by going with a smaller engine rather than a big block when you are talking a truck as big as this. Little engines will work their butts off and end up consuming more fuel than a big block just to propel and keep that beast propelled. An 8.1L is an easier swap than a 6.0L anyway. The 6.0L is a HP engine that doesn’t muster up any usable torque until you spin the piss out of it while the 8.1L is a torque engine making over 300 lb. ft of torque at idle and peaks out over 500 lb. ft. at under 4,000 RPM. Low end torque is what you want in a big truck, not high RPM race car HP unless your mud racing :costumed-smiley-007

Funny you mention that, I was just clicking through your burb thread reading the engine info you posted there about the 8.1's. Definitely something I need to look into more, as I agree with you TQ is where its at for something this large and its intended use. :drool::drool: Just imagining 300ft/lbs at idle with the NV4500 in L..

Know where I can lay hands on a junk yard 8.1L along the front range that I could freshen up?

 

[Larry]

Funny you mention that, I was just clicking through your burb thread reading the engine info you posted there about the 8.1's. Definitely something I need to look into more, as I agree with you TQ is where its at for something this large and its intended use. :drool::drool: Just imagining 300ft/lbs at idle with the NV4500 in L..

Know where I can lay hands on a junk yard 8.1L along the front range that I could freshen up?

Yes, that is where the 8.1L has the personality of a diesel. It lugs around off-road in 3rd gear just blapping away at idle speed. I did most of the Mojave Rd in 3rd and 4th gear at idle. You don't have to work those engines hard.

I don't know of any local sources that I know for sure have any L18's but they're out there. Give LKQ a try. If you seriously consider one of these engines THIS link will help you along.

This is how they sound lugging along at low RPM in 3rd, 4th and occasionally 5th gear. They're not burning a lot of fuel when they aren't being worked hard. The Dodge diesel and I both used the exact same amount of fuel over the 3 days we did the Mojave Rd. Once we got on the highway headed up to Death Valley that was a different story. LOL
[video=youtube;WOwzdp59nVU]https://www.youtube.com/watch?list=PLlRxeg9lCAEQzoxik-75tybl8QIZTRYnO&feature=player_detailpage&v=WOwzdp59nVU[/video]

 

[Colorado_Outback]

Man the oil pressure is low in this thing.. about 7-10psi at idle and 20psi under load when warmed up.. Sad times.

I think this winter ill pull the 350 out and throw some money and parts at it. Rebuilding this thing seems like the most cost effective option to meet my over all goals.

Been busy with work but ill be back to working on the interior in a week or so.

 

[Colorado_Outback]

Did an oil change on this thing last weekend, it was the most awful oil change of my life by far. The oil filter hadn't been off in a while, Now I know why the truck came with one.. I had oil filter vise grips firmly clamped around the base and that thing would not budge. Ended up pulling the oil filter housing and being mean to it in the vice. After trying to get it off for two hours, stabbing it, etc.

I added a can of Restore with the fresh oil to try to help with the oil consumption and low oil pressure. So far so good, oil pressure is up on the gauge about 35psi warmed up under load vs the 20-25 I was seeing. Need to put more miles on it before I can get a good idea of what oil consumption is like.

Rear captains are mocked up just need to weld up the brackets and paint.

Got the camper unloaded off the trailer today, that was fun. Put a couple chunks of 1" pipe under it and ratchet strapped it right off the back. Then worked the camper jacks under it and set it on some janky stands that came with the camper.

I just discovered that the rear passenger mounting location is rotted out. So I'm going to have to do a little surgery and splice in a new piece of wood. Also need to build a spacer so that the cab over will clear, A 4x6 on end will give me 2" between the cab and camper.

 

[Colorado_Outback]

Ended up being a way bigger pain in the *** than it should have been but its in there.. Sometimes the only answer to your problem is off road forklift.

 

[Colorado_Outback]

Rear corner repaired.

Made some new mounts for the tie downs.

Ready to hit the road!

 

[Colorado_Outback]

Finally got the rear seat mounting finished up.

Reenforced the outside of the seat bracket with 3" 3/16" angle so I could use the 2 OEM bolts on the outside. The seat belt stud lined up with a hole in the rear of the seat frame and I punched a 4th through the floor pan and used a 4" grade 8 with a 3" plate on the back to prevent shear.Over all I'm happy with the way the interior is fitting up so far. I'm 6' 2" and I have plenty of head and leg room in the back.

Couple pics from mock up..

Now the real fun starts, on to the fronts and center console.