'83 2500 Suburban verification pls

Rovertrader

Supporting Sponsor
I found- and bought- an '83 GMC 2500 4x4 'burb w/ 47k on it. From Wy and Mt- estate sale, and looks to be accurate milage- but need some help. I have looked at various sites, and this is what I come up with:
-front D-60
-rear GM 14 bolt
-auto tranny 700R4
-T-case NP205
motor is 350sb w/ carb, pollution pump, no cats d/t gvw at time
awesomw truck- stuck on some 285/75-16 BFG a/ts w/ no issue after removing the running boards- looks great and rides great. Debating a 4" or 6" lift or just leave it alone. Thanks for any input.
Cheers
 

Rot Box

Explorer
It's been awhile, but I'm thinking the t-case should be an NP208 in a 2500 and there is also no chance that a Dana 60 came in a Suburban from the factory. If it has been swapped in that would be great, but it is unlikely. You should be able to spot a 60F near the front differential cover near the bottom of the diff if it has one.

For my money I would honestly leave the suspension alone. I guess it depends on what you plan to do with it, but I don't think anything over 4" will help you in any way off-road in the long run. Anyway there are some really cool Suburban builds here if you search around a bit. You should post some pics once you get modifying it :bike_rider:
 

ccarley

Adventurer
Sounds like a cool find!

I agree with Rot Box, having one with a 4" lift myself, I gotta say that it really doesn't need it; however 35's fit mine just fine, the ride is nice, and it gets a lot of looks. 35's cost a bit of money to replace though.

My manual suggests that front axles from the factory would have been either a Dana 44 or a 10 bolt, the early models having a Dana (perhaps). Not too clear on that, but a Dana 60 sure would be welcome on the front! Sounds like a nice axle combo.

I'm not sure though that a 700R4 came on a 3/4 ton? I would not get rid of it though! I have that trans in mine, and although I've been told it's not the strongest tranny, it sure is nice having OD, and I'm pretty sure if there are any issues, it's not too bad to rebuild, stronger.

Any pics of the new rig?

Clay
 

Stoney126

Adventurer
Them came with 8 lug 10 bolts maybe dana 44. your trans may be a turbo 400. Im pretty sure that is what came in the 3/4 ton's but if you have OD its a 700r4.

But like mentioned before If they swapped in a Dana 60 and a 205 thats awesome.
 

Cody1771

Explorer
ORD also makes a good steering box brace, and they have a weld in kit if your frame is already cracked. that drivetrain combo is certainly intresting, sounds like a swap job, a highly desired one at that to, the 205 cases, 14 bolt, and D60 are a wicked combo. i wanna see some pictures!
 

Larry

Bigassgas Explorer
I found- and bought- an '83 GMC 2500 4x4 'burb w/ 47k on it. From Wy and Mt- estate sale, and looks to be accurate milage- but need some help. I have looked at various sites, and this is what I come up with:
-front D-60
-rear GM 14 bolt
-auto tranny 700R4
-T-case NP205
motor is 350sb w/ carb, pollution pump, no cats d/t gvw at time
awesomw truck- stuck on some 285/75-16 BFG a/ts w/ no issue after removing the running boards- looks great and rides great. Debating a 4" or 6" lift or just leave it alone. Thanks for any input.
Cheers

Is this your shopping list or is it the goods already bolted on to it? Unless someone did a lot of work to this Suburban it won’t have any of items you listed in stock form except for the 350 engine.

The front axle will be a Corp 10 bolt

The rear axle will be a Corp 14 bolt semi-floater. Full floaters were missing in action in 4x4 Suburban’s from 1980 through 1992. The semi-float 14 bolt rear axle is not a desirable rear axle.

The transfercase will be aluminum NP208. Not exactly a gem either (1979 was the last year for full time NP203 transfercases in GM trucks)

The ¾ ton 4x4’s did not receive an overdrive transmission until 1990/91. This Sub would have a direct drive TH350 or TH400. Decent trans but does not have overdrive.

6” lifts work very well on Suburban’s

I would be curious to know how a Dana 60 front axle affects ride quality???? :coffeedrink:
 

pileofparts

New member
As already mentioned yours will have a GM 10 bolt 8 lug front and a semi float 14bolt rear. A few things to consider are........ I would highly reccomend a transmission with an overdrive for any long distance travel. At the time your Sub was made gas was cheap and overdrive technology, while out there, wasn't exactly the norm. 3/4 ton Suburbans in that era were made for guys with heavy duty needs but wanted cargo room (general contractors, formans, etc.) and this was before the rage of bigger is better SUV soccer moms. All that being said, highway RPM's were not GM's big concern at the time. While I personally believe the GM 10 bolt front will suffice for typical expo duty, I am a firm believer of beefier is better and I would rather have a stout drivetrain as opposed to dealing with issues in the middle of nowhere. At bare minimum I would replace the semi float 14 bolt with a full float 14 as they are a dime a dozen (like $150) you will have to weld on new axle perches as the distance between the Suburbans rear springs is different then that of a 30 series truck. This in itself will solve multiple issues from heavier braking (cheap disc brake kits available) to the possibility of breaking an axle shaft. Remember these Suburbans are HEAVY as it is, let alone with all of your expo gear in it. As far as lift goes, I think 4" would be perfect. I would personally do the following.... 2.5" replacement springs up front with ORD greasable shackles (again solving the typical issue of the factory shackles rubbing the frame), combined would give you around 3.5" to 4" of lift and then do an ORD shackle flip in the rear which would net you 4". These Suburbans have a tendency of sagging slightly in the rear over the years and the extra 1/2" in the rear will be fine. As far as what someone said earlier, I would consider it mandatory to do the steering box/frame brace. If your not going with ungodly large tires (which I don't think you are) then just do the frame kit. Also, don't buy it from some specialty place, I love ORD and they are awesome guys with great products but you can get the el'chepo frame brace from 4 wheel parts for under $50 (cc100 is the part number). And as long as you can weld or know someone that can your in business. Now, if you can find a Dana 60 on the cheap then go for it, it is an easy swap and you will end up much better off in the long run. Again, go big or stay home..... I would rather be the guy helping someone fix their junk on an expo then be the one that requires the help, or worse then that be the guy stuck in no mans land in search of an axle shaft, u-joint, steering knuckle, etc. Do the above lift with some 35" BFG's or something similar and you've got a sweet expo rig thats simple to work on and does just about whatever you need it to on the cheap. If you need help on steering upgrades etc. etc. let me know.

p.s. a dana 60 will not effect ride quality... just saying.
 

pileofparts

New member
Unsprung mass. Admittedly there already is a live axle under there, so ride quality has taken a hit, but I'll guess that a D60 is 1/3 to 1/2 again more mass than a D44 or a 10b.

I don't want to start a pissing match and yes I know you are very knowledgable as i have read many of your post.... but he will NOT notice a difference. Yes unsprung weight plays a role, but on a truck that weighs what his does, the difference between a d60 and a gm 10 bolt/ dana 44 (virtually the same axles) is so minor that there is no way in hell he will actually notice a difference. He would notice a bigger difference changing the air pressuere in his tires buy 5 pounds then changing axles. On a computer model it will make a difference but rolling down an interstate at 60 MPH he wouldn't know the difference. :D
 

Larry

Bigassgas Explorer
Unsprung mass. Admittedly there already is a live axle under there, so ride quality has taken a hit, but I'll guess that a D60 is 1/3 to 1/2 again more mass than a D44 or a 10b.

Actually, I was always of the opinion the added unsprung weight of heavier axles actually improved the ride. It did when I installed the 14 bolt full-floater in my ’78 K10 as well as a Suburban I built for a friend. The trucks felt a lot more planted and surefooted on the ground. The stiff springs that usually accompany these big axles is where the bone jarring ride comes from.

Here is a Sub I built for a friend a few years ago. My friend lives in Detroit where you cannot find these old square Suburban that don’t look like Swiss Cheese due to rust. He bought it from another friend here locally then started sending me engine parts to get it going so he could drive it back to Detroit. It received a brand new crate (not rebuilt) marine variant of the 6.5L turbo diesel, all new accessories and 14 bolt full-floater while it was here. A few months later he flew out out here to CO and drove his new toy back to Detroit where it was finished off with a fresh coat of satin black paint, Teflon Mojave wheels, intercooler and a 4L80E running on an independent transmission controller. My buddy works for AM General in Detroit and had a lot of 6.5L goodies and other neat H1 prototype parts at his disposal. The Sub turned out really nice when it was all done. It pulled like a freight train and smoked like one too! If you didn't know any better you would swear it was an early Duramax when you get on it. It is amazing what a 6.5L will do on a prototype Bosch injection pump instead of the junk Stanadyne injection pump. The marine 6.5L had a different cam profile from a regular 6.5L as well as other differences that I can't remember. Sadly he had to sell it when the things got out of control for most Detroiters a few years ago when his wife lost her auto industry job.

14 bolt full-floater just installed
2863420144_5df276fcd5_z.jpg


Boat anchor 14 bolt semi-floater that was pulled out.
2863424190_656b52a8ee_z.jpg


2433584712_f66162977e_z.jpg


2862587843_b5d7b24eb3_z.jpg


2862588617_c45d31e65d_z.jpg
 

Larry

Bigassgas Explorer
If the difference in unsprung weight won't make a difference then why do late model GM's have IFS? Any road racer can tell you what a small difference in unsprung mass makes to the way that the car rides and behaves. Desert racers know how hard it is to control a heavy moving axle. Their needs require it, but that doesn't make them happy about it. I've seen it, I've experienced it, I know the difference. Just changing from "Rockcrawler" steel wheels to alloy wheels on a much lighter truck with a much lighter axle made a noticeable improvement in ride quality. Changing to alloys and 285's on my Sub from steel and 33's made about the same improvement, it was what inspired me to go to alloys on Patch.
Sorry, sticking to my guns on this one.

And like I said, I wouldn't change out an existing D60 unless looking for the max possible ride quality.

We can all just agree that each of us have our own opinions. I for one, appreciate the unspung mass for overlanding type off-roading. Unsprung weight helps keep the vehicle well planted on the trail and helps with suspension articulation. Racing, I would tend to agree with you.
 

pileofparts

New member
We can all just agree that each of us have our own opinions. I for one, appreciate the unspung mass for overlanding type off-roading. Unsprung weight helps keep the vehicle well planted on the trail and helps with suspension articulation. Racing, I would tend to agree with you.

I agree completely. I agree that it will change the ride. I just think that in his case, if all other factors did not change i.e. wheels, tires, suspension, etc. being as he is not doing any type of performance driving (high speed desert, road racing, etc) the change that is made will be so small he won't notice. Again your statement was based on ride quality not how well it would do in high performance situation or off road for that matter. If your statement was based on off road then I would say deffinetly go with more unsprung weight on an expo rig, I think it just feels better in off camber situations with lots of gear loaded up. Either way, to each their own. Go big or go home so you don't need to worry about fixing it later :) Now take all of our advise and over analyzing toughts and start building this thing the way you want to! :wings:
 

Rovertrader

Supporting Sponsor
Thanks all- didn't want to start a this or that kinda thread- just trying to sort what it has to start. The info I listed was a compilation from numerous sites, and felt it to be in question. So, now for some pics:
'83 'burb, rear diff, and gear selector- OD 700R??
 

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Rovertrader

Supporting Sponsor
T-case from rear, label appears to be NP203 or 208?
 

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