'83 2500 Suburban verification pls
- Thread starter Rovertrader
- Start date
Rovertrader
Supporting Sponsor
So here is the deal, bought it because I like it, may or may not build it w/ 35's as I have the PW w/ Flippac that is awesome combo. Currently just driving it locally step and fetch kinda stuff, but have the 35s off the PW looking for a home(and already picked up some cheap H-2 wheels). Hate the steering, but pretty much enjoy it otherwise. Considering minimal lift to fit the 35s and fix the steering- to the point of custom croosover or??? Just looking to verify what I have under it currently, and then decide if I want to go down the $$ path. It is supposed one owner w/ 48k on it, minimal to no rust, we live in the boonies on 100+ acres, so it'll get used for something. Thanks for all the input, and keep it coming, as I haven't built a Chevy, but been wheeling and such for the past 40 years- TJ on 40s w/ coilovers, too many Rovers to count, etc. Thanks again for all the help.
pileofparts
New member
:iagree:
Exactly what Larry said. Check all of your tie rod ends, drag link end and ball joints for play. That may be where your poor steering is coming from. What exactly is the steering doing that you don't care for? Is it lose?
Rovertrader
Supporting Sponsor
Thanks guys.
The steering is loose as a goose. Basicly does fine going down the road, just occasionally drifts with play before recentering. Reminds me of my dad's old Plymouth- early 70's Mopar steering. Thoughts?? What about steering stabelizer?
The steering is loose as a goose. Basicly does fine going down the road, just occasionally drifts with play before recentering. Reminds me of my dad's old Plymouth- early 70's Mopar steering. Thoughts?? What about steering stabelizer?
ccarley
Adventurer
I just replaced the steering coupling shaft in mine; made a huge difference! Rag joint was fine, but the upper CV/Universal/whatever joint was shot.
When I got mine, it also had loose bearings, and one ball joint is still bad. It also had about 1" of toe-out or so... and man this thing wandered all over! Still need to take care of the ball joint (this weekend), but it's nice enough to drive with one hand now, no problem. The steering can be nice when everything is in order. Don't forget, it may not be recommended, but with a centered wheel, check the pre-load on the sector shaft... that helps out too. It does wear over the years, and can cause some play when the wheels are centered.
Good luck! Sweet ride to begin with.
Clay
When I got mine, it also had loose bearings, and one ball joint is still bad. It also had about 1" of toe-out or so... and man this thing wandered all over! Still need to take care of the ball joint (this weekend), but it's nice enough to drive with one hand now, no problem. The steering can be nice when everything is in order. Don't forget, it may not be recommended, but with a centered wheel, check the pre-load on the sector shaft... that helps out too. It does wear over the years, and can cause some play when the wheels are centered.
Good luck! Sweet ride to begin with.
Clay
wrench-head
Observer
Hey Larry,
Been a while since I have seen you on here. My old 83 K20 truck had the same combo of parts. The 700R4 was in mine as well, then went to TH400.
Been a while since I have seen you on here. My old 83 K20 truck had the same combo of parts. The 700R4 was in mine as well, then went to TH400.
pileofparts
New member
DONT PUT A STEERING STABALIZER ON IT!
Yet...Steering stabalizers are great and they do serve a purpose. That purpose is to help absorb some of the shock and feedback you get into the steering wheel from large heavy vehicles going down roads with holes, groves etc.. The best advice I can give is make sure all steering is good and tight. That includes rag joint/coupler, steering box, drag link ends, tie rod ends, ball joints, wheel bearings and even check for silly stuff like equal and correct air pressure on both sides, spring bushings etc. Once your completely satisfied with all of those parts being good have it aligned (just setting the toe and straightening the wheel on the big burb.) THEN it should steer like a champ with no play, THEN add your stabalizer...... It will be nice and tight then
Yet...Steering stabalizers are great and they do serve a purpose. That purpose is to help absorb some of the shock and feedback you get into the steering wheel from large heavy vehicles going down roads with holes, groves etc.. The best advice I can give is make sure all steering is good and tight. That includes rag joint/coupler, steering box, drag link ends, tie rod ends, ball joints, wheel bearings and even check for silly stuff like equal and correct air pressure on both sides, spring bushings etc. Once your completely satisfied with all of those parts being good have it aligned (just setting the toe and straightening the wheel on the big burb.) THEN it should steer like a champ with no play, THEN add your stabalizer...... It will be nice and tight then
Rovertrader
Supporting Sponsor
Thanks yet again- have apt for Tues at the shop to check everything including alignment. Cheers
86cj
Explorer
700r4
I had an original owner 1983 GMC 3/4 ton pick up for many years, you have the same drivetrain as my truck. GM stopped putting the 700R4 in the 3/4 tons at some point after 1983, yours is stock, "some people will never agree, trust me.
It also has none of the upgrades that made that trans finally get a great reputation. Your torque convertor uses a vacuum switch to lock and unlock, later versions use a computer. This has to be working or the trans will burn its fluid, check out your old vacuum lines, there are electric switch kits out there. I was always told the 9.5" semi float was junk, it hauled way over it's GVW for many years without complaint, a 12' side door cabover camper And a boat in tow.
A Bubba'Sub with 35's on top of a sand dune is a beautiful thing.............
I had an original owner 1983 GMC 3/4 ton pick up for many years, you have the same drivetrain as my truck. GM stopped putting the 700R4 in the 3/4 tons at some point after 1983, yours is stock, "some people will never agree, trust me.
It also has none of the upgrades that made that trans finally get a great reputation. Your torque convertor uses a vacuum switch to lock and unlock, later versions use a computer. This has to be working or the trans will burn its fluid, check out your old vacuum lines, there are electric switch kits out there. I was always told the 9.5" semi float was junk, it hauled way over it's GVW for many years without complaint, a 12' side door cabover camper And a boat in tow.
A Bubba'Sub with 35's on top of a sand dune is a beautiful thing.............
Rovertrader
Supporting Sponsor
po did some tranny upgrades very few miles ago- runs and shifts great!! In fact, even the ride is great, hence my hesitancy to lift, etc. Love the truck, and drive it more than imaginable with what else resides in the barn...