86 Pickup Build up

[toyrunner95]

I still dream of building a 1985.

ill trade your my 84 for your taco! streight up!:jump:

 

[SierraExplorer]

My buddy has one about the same size for sale. Have to check with him see if he sold it.
Did you notice any loss of power on the hwy? I am thinking of putting something like you see on the Yamika racks to try to clean up the air flow.

Not to bad of a loss if much. It's windy about half the year here in Carson/Washoe Valley so if it was, then i wouldnt really notice due to being tossed around by the wind all the time.

 

[SierraExplorer]

Thank you Dave! Thats great info. :clapsmile

 

[DaveInDenver]

Thank you Dave! Thats great info.

Yeah, thanks, I'm going through a lot of this right now as I build my engine. There are things that are easy to do and I would highly recommend. The exhaust alone is easy and effective. A cam isn't too difficult and nets good return on money. It can get very crazy in a hurry, so the first 15HP come pretty easily but the next 10 or 20 get expensive.

 

[Grim Reaper]

I have the 268 EB cam by Teds recommendation for my needs and the gear I planned to run. Its a little milder but definitely picked it up. Passed emissions just fine.

My head was reworked and decked and so was my block to fix a ring groove from a blown head gasket. I'm pushing 10:1 compression and she won't run on 87 octane. 2 inch exhaust but otherwise stock. Pretty happy with it other then having to buy mid grade fuel. Haven't run a full tank with the new gears yet to see the MPG but it was consistently 20+ commuting with the wrong gearing. I expect to see about 23-24mpg hwy without trailer Turing 33x12.5 BFG A/T's

The big thing is gearing. If you change the tire size by 2 inches concider a gear swap mandatory. The 4.88's with the 33's really made a world of difference. I plan on a LOT of hwy so I went with the 4.88's that put it back to stock RPM's. If you plan to haul a lot of weight 5.29's might be in order especially if you have a Auto. I wouldn't run it much deeper then that. The pinions get weak.

Headers do help but a lot of O2 complaints. Pretty well plan to add a heated O2 and that cures the complaint. I have been looking for the newer intake but not been high on the priority list so no comment on how much of an improvement it makes.

 

[DaveInDenver]

The big thing is gearing. If you change the tire size by 2 inches concider a gear swap mandatory.

Yes! I forgot, since that did not immediately occur to me talking about the engine. I run 5.29 on 33" tires and LOVE it! Gears are key.

Headers do help but a lot of O2 complaints. Pretty well plan to add a heated O2 and that cures the complaint. I have been looking for the newer intake but not been high on the priority list so no comment on how much of an improvement it makes.

The LCE headers I have keep the stock location for the O2 (I only have one). There's a bung welded to the tube between the header and cat, same as stock. I just use the stock O2, fits fine, even kept the heat shield.

 

[SierraExplorer]

Updates! Got my All-Pro bumper on finally and got some new shocks as well. 9000's in the front and 5000's in the rear. Winch coming up sometime soon as well as the new exhaust. :wavey:

 

[erod]

Great thread, I am getting close to a build up of an 86' 4runner...probably start in a week or two. Dave, and everyone else, great info and pics, thanks much! Looking forward to more!

 

[ntsqd]

snip.....
I found that my shell has leaky windows on it. How do i go about fixing that?

If it's the old putty-like dum-dum sealant btwn the 'glas and the window frames that is allowing the leakage I'd suggest 3M 5200 Marine Adhesive-Sealant after a thorough cleaning off of the dum-dum.

Some other random thots:

Fiberglass likes lots of small attachment points rather than a couple large ones. Really need to spread the load out as much as possible. I would look into more bolts holding the shell to the bed. My glass shell only has the 4 corners and it is starting to come apart. (Doesn't matter though, I want to 86 the thing & build a hard tonneau cover instead. Just need to work out the tent part of that b4 going fwds on the project.)

Something you might be interested in, I put a 12 volt RV 30 watt fluoresent light in the middle of the roof of my shell. I salvaged it from a van conversion out of the JY. I used a couple small screws and the above mentioned 5200. I can now read in bed, in camp, in the middle of BFE.

The way I wired power for the light was to hang a GM 70's-80's truck twin isolated stud (off the middle of their firewalls) under the bed fwd of the rear tire, and run a 10 ga wire to it from a large current maxi-fuse (from a Mazda?) at the battery. I put a Weatherpak type sealed fuse holder there and ran the power up thru the bed & to the light. Then I used a GM single stud off a 70's Nova core support on the frame at the rear of the last cross member (had to drop the spare to get to the spot). Ran some more 10 gauge to this stud so that I have power at/near the rear bumper. So far this powers a power point in the bed (install accessed by removing the Right tail light) and a Ford Rustang fog light for a back-up light, thru a relay driven by the reverse light circuit.

I can't tell you how much HP the 22R-TE in my 2wd commuter makes at 8 psi, but I can tell you that in a 60 MPH roll-on in 5th that a 5.0 Rustang, driven by a moron, was only keeping up & not gaining. Downside to the T's is the head gasket is suspect. Next plan is to pull it down & have the block O-ringed and then go to ARP head studs.

Give some thot to the Total Chaos Steering Ilder Arm. There are lesser cost band-aids for the stock arm, but the TC part fixes the problem.

Steel bed panels. I've had a 2.5 gallon jug of water freeze solid while I was sleeping in the back of my Canadian built '84 (No double wall panels like on yours) at Eureka Sand Dune in NW Death Valley. I have a short section of in/out carpet that I use for various things while camping in that truck. One particularly cold night I put it btwn the bed bulkhead & my head. There was a difference. If you can get those doubler panels out easy enough I would insulate behind them. And second on some sort of insulation across the bed bulkhead.

A thing to keep in mind on the engine Power issue. Torque is the measure of how much work can be done. Horsepower is only a measure of how fast that work can be done.
A Class 8/OTR truck can't do the work very fast, but it can do a whole lot of work.
An Indy car can't do much work, but what work it can do it does very, very fast.

 

[MtnMan]

That bumper looked a lot bigger on the living room floor..

 

[njtaco]

3m 5200...

If it's the old putty-like dum-dum sealant btwn the 'glas and the window frames that is allowing the leakage I'd suggest 3M 5200 Marine Adhesive-Sealant after a thorough cleaning off of the dum-dum.

my 2c...

3M 5200 is great adhesive/sealer...as long as you never want to remove what you adhered! It does NOT give up easily. I have used a lot of it on boats, including underwater, and recommend it almost without reservation, for the appropriate application.

Do not expect it to have the characteristics as silicone or caulk...it is not at all the same, except the container it arrives in.

Bob

 

[OverlandZJ]

Nice build...it's coming along well. I love the early Toyota styling.

 

[ntsqd]

my 2c...

3M 5200 is great adhesive/sealer...as long as you never want to remove what you adhered! It does NOT give up easily. I have used a lot of it on boats, including underwater, and recommend it almost without reservation, for the appropriate application.

Do not expect it to have the characteristics as silicone or caulk...it is not at all the same, except the container it arrives in.

Bob

2nd these comments.

FWIW, The friend of mine who worked in a chandlery & recommended it to me for the application in question and what I used it for told me that the best way he knew of to get it loose was a heat gun.