jaco
Observer
I know some guys have converted the LED mags as well, I haven't done it and couldn't guarantee results. I know the reflector and switch is different but I have heard it works, I'll see if I can research it and have a more solid answer.
I've also heard that runtime is about 20 minutes of full power and then about an hour of very usable light after that on 3D cells. 3D NiMh rechargeable is considerably better from what I've heard.
The heat output is not a lot, the LED generates heat and the large effort to pull it away from the LED is more to help efficiency. My test was to leave one on high for 5 minutes face down on a piece of sheet metal and the light barely gets warm, no noticeable heat from the light output. I'd guess the pitiful krypton bulb is roughly about the same heat output as this LED, but the heat from the LED is coming out the bottom of the LED into the heatsink and into the light.
I'll get a bunch of stuff on the way and then post up again, thanks for the response everyone, I don't think the light will disappoint.
Edit, these use the factory switch, just modified to fit the heatsink and have the wires going to the LED. You can replace a worn out switch online for very cheap. The driver switches modes when it senses a break in power. I do not know the reliability of the driver, I've been using mine for a bit here, but I hear that they generate heat and need to be heatsinked which is difficult to do in the 1.5" hidden space where they are stuffed... Output on high seems to be about 85% of a direct drive unit on 3D cells which is what the efficiency of the driver is. The driver is designed to have 7.4V input, not the 4.5 that the 3D's offer...
I've also heard that runtime is about 20 minutes of full power and then about an hour of very usable light after that on 3D cells. 3D NiMh rechargeable is considerably better from what I've heard.
The heat output is not a lot, the LED generates heat and the large effort to pull it away from the LED is more to help efficiency. My test was to leave one on high for 5 minutes face down on a piece of sheet metal and the light barely gets warm, no noticeable heat from the light output. I'd guess the pitiful krypton bulb is roughly about the same heat output as this LED, but the heat from the LED is coming out the bottom of the LED into the heatsink and into the light.
I'll get a bunch of stuff on the way and then post up again, thanks for the response everyone, I don't think the light will disappoint.
Edit, these use the factory switch, just modified to fit the heatsink and have the wires going to the LED. You can replace a worn out switch online for very cheap. The driver switches modes when it senses a break in power. I do not know the reliability of the driver, I've been using mine for a bit here, but I hear that they generate heat and need to be heatsinked which is difficult to do in the 1.5" hidden space where they are stuffed... Output on high seems to be about 85% of a direct drive unit on 3D cells which is what the efficiency of the driver is. The driver is designed to have 7.4V input, not the 4.5 that the 3D's offer...
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