jeep-N-montero
Expedition Leader
I don't believe the gen 2 or 2.5 ever came with steel wheels, not even sure if the gen 1 had steel wheels, do you have a picture??
'94 LS Wheel/Tire Questions
- Thread starter razor541
- Start date
I don't believe the gen 2 or 2.5 ever came with steel wheels, not even sure if the gen 1 had steel wheels, do you have a picture??
JohnnyBfromPeoria
I'm Getting Around To It
Gen 1 Montero steel wheels are all 6" wide.
John B.
John B.
plh
Explorer
Same 6" width for the Gen 2 RS (at least the ones that came on my '92) and according to the FSM. Kinda cool wheels, but heavy.
photos here:
http://4x4wire.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/1054732/
Last edited:
My bad, I thought the steelies were what the stock chrome wheels on gen 2 were referred as.
Toasty
Looking for that thing i just had in my hand...
Wow! That's a skinny wheel! Someone was running one with a 35x12.5 as a spare way back.
JohnnyBfromPeoria
I'm Getting Around To It
Years back, when HoseB had his first Raider (the one I flew to Albuquerque to buy, with Lloyd's help), he mistakenly had a shop mount 33x12.5-15 BFG A/T's on his 6" steel wheels. Seemed to work fine.
John B.
Now have 33x12.5x15 BFG KO2's on 15x8 -19 wheels.
Question though: when the front suspension is tucking the tires up and when they are turned slightly (like turning to go into a parking lot or over a bump in the trail) there is some rubbing on the inside part of the fender (opposite where the plastic bumper end caps used to be).
I've already cranked the torsion bars (at the limit of adjustment without throwing off the camber) and malleted the part of the body paneling.
What sort of solution will let me run these larger tires at the full range of steering and suspension? 4crawler body lift kit?
Thanks!
Question though: when the front suspension is tucking the tires up and when they are turned slightly (like turning to go into a parking lot or over a bump in the trail) there is some rubbing on the inside part of the fender (opposite where the plastic bumper end caps used to be).
I've already cranked the torsion bars (at the limit of adjustment without throwing off the camber) and malleted the part of the body paneling.
What sort of solution will let me run these larger tires at the full range of steering and suspension? 4crawler body lift kit?
Thanks!
jeep-N-montero
Expedition Leader
Perhaps you should have went with the 33x10.50 as suggested that has been proven to be a great setup. And if you are having issues in the mall parking lot, how much rubbing might there be on the trail, could even lead to a dangerous situation if the tire rubs hard enough to lock up the steering and tire rotation on a steep downhill descent. Best of luck though.
I thought the -19 would've solved what issues might have come from the 12.5 tire: apparently not.
Good point with the off road example, didn't think about that particular case.
I guess now I'm essentially looking at how to clear a 35" tire, since I'm dealing with that sort of width...
Good point with the off road example, didn't think about that particular case.
I guess now I'm essentially looking at how to clear a 35" tire, since I'm dealing with that sort of width...
JohnnyBfromPeoria
I'm Getting Around To It
A body lift will help. How far off the bump stop is the front a-arm? You have to leave some room for the suspension's downward travel or your ride will suffer, big time. You "can" trim those bump stops (two per side, remove the wheel first) some without issue (at least in my experience) but don't cut so much off that the a-arm hits the bolt heads holding the bump stop itself, as I once did... The easy way to trim those stops is with a smooth sharp blade lubed with oil. Note the angle at which the a-arm will contact the stop and try to replicate it with the cut. That then will do two things, you "can" crank the front bars a little higher (get an alignment to have the camber corrected when your height is acceptable, even and settled in) and/or the suspension will have a bit more travel. Sure, other guys will tell you not to do this as it introduces more travel downwards than was designed in to the suspension, wearing on the half shafts and the CV boots, but I've never had any issues with Gen 1's and 2's, and I've done plenty of them this way.
John B.
John B.
Hello John!
Looks like 1.25" on the passenger front. Driver front is 1.5". I'm wondering if my front suspension needs to be refreshed, since I'm at 2.5" from the top of the tire to the fender. Once I add in cocking the tires and needing to articulate up, they start interfering.
Thanks again!
Looks like 1.25" on the passenger front. Driver front is 1.5". I'm wondering if my front suspension needs to be refreshed, since I'm at 2.5" from the top of the tire to the fender. Once I add in cocking the tires and needing to articulate up, they start interfering.
Thanks again!