95 SR Timing Belt/Front Camshaft Oil seal questions

[PT52590]

Hello All,

I am new the the forum and recently purchased a 95 SR with about 240k on the clock. The previous owner hadn't done the timing belt since he bought the vehicle with 80k miles so I figured I should go ahead and get it serviced. Seeing as I only paid $1k for the vehicle, I couldn't bring myself to pay someone more than that to do the work for me, so I have decided to do it myself.

I have ordered all of the standard parts needed for timing belt service (water pump, belt, idler pulley, tensioner, tensioner pulley), and after removing everything to gain access to the timing belt I noticed that one of the front passenger side camshaft oil seals seems to be leaking. After doing some research, I have found that there are a few different seal options and that there is a special tool that is 'required' to replace them. I was about to order the timken replacement seal which seems like it might be a little easier to install due to the flanged design, but I figured it couldn't hurt to ask for some advice since this is my first go around with a mitsu, so if any of you could provide a little advice on the following questions it would be greatly appreciated.

-Is a special tool really required to replace the camshaft seals?

-Should I go ahead and replace all the camshaft seals since I'm already in there?

-Has anyone tried the timken seals? how to they compare to OEM or other aftermarket seals?

-I was also thinking about replacing the crankshaft seal, but have the same questions as to which seal, if I should really bother if it isn't leaking yet and if the other special tool is required...

- Any pointers on holding the cams/crankshaft in place while replacing the seals or if I should be fine just leaving them be with the belt off while changing out the seals


Thanks,

-Pat

 

[plh]

-Should I go ahead and replace all the camshaft seals since I'm already in there?


-I was also thinking about replacing the crankshaft seal, but have the same questions as to which seal, if I should really bother if it isn't leaking yet and if the other special tool is required...


-Pat

Good idea on the service.

Yes, replace all the seals, Cams & crank. If they start to leak tomorrow or next week - it is like doing another timing belt job for labor.

People seem to favor OEM seals, it is what I have used as well. Not sure about aftermarket. Cost between the options is marginal compared to the labor involved.

Have you looked at the FSM (factory service manual)? http://www.mitsubishilinks.com

Replace the harmonic balancer bolt and washer too.

 

[DanielDD]

Agree on using OEM parts. Not much more expensive than the alternative and you know it fits right the 1st time. Ditto on the crankshaft bolt and washer too!

 

[SlimPickins]

Plus one on OEM seals and to tackle all of them while you are in there. Prior to removing the seals, take a few pics so you can get a decent idea of how far in to press/pound the new seals. I didn't require any 'special tool' for the seals but you may need to order a tool to hold your harmonic balancer in place when you remove the crank bolt. Lots of info on this through the forum and I got mine through ebay. There are a couple of different configurations when it comes to the harmonic balancer so take some measurements of it's holes to ensure the tool's pins will align prior to purchasing the tool from ebay. As far as holding the cams, I ran into that issue as well. My passenger side would forcefully slip to one side or the other under spring tension after I removed the belt. I didn't use anything to hold it but probably should have and instead just found the 'sweet spot' where it wouldn't rotate and worked carefully around that. I didn't hear any metal on metal noise when it would slip over and the motor runs great so no harm, no foul. I think. Get a factory service manual and jump in.

 

[Earlron]

I use the Motion Pro Clutch Holding Tool #08-0008 to lock the harmonic balancer and break the bolt loose. The tools pins fit right into the balancer holes and lock in.

The cam sprocket bolts can be extremely difficult to break loose putting a lot of stress on the sprockets if you try to hold them. I've found nothing better that pulling the valve covers and locking right onto the camshaft with a 15/16" or 24mm wrench and using a big *** breaker bar on the bolt. Replace the rear cam seal plugs and VC gaskets too.

No special tool need to replace seals. A cheap seal puller from harbor freight does make removal easier. I like and use Elwis, Timken and Ishino seals. Never had a problem with any of them. The seals for your motor should not have a flange.

Proper cam seals: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005X8KDOC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

[PT52590]

Agree on using OEM parts. Not much more expensive than the alternative and you know it fits right the 1st time. Ditto on the crankshaft bolt and washer too!

I use the Motion Pro Clutch Holding Tool #08-0008 to lock the harmonic balancer and break the bolt loose. The tools pins fit right into the balancer holes and lock in.

The cam sprocket bolts can be extremely difficult to break loose putting a lot of stress on the sprockets if you try to hold them. I've found nothing better that pulling the valve covers and locking right onto the camshaft with a 15/16" or 24mm wrench and using a big *** breaker bar on the bolt. Replace the rear cam seal plugs and VC gaskets too.

No special tool need to replace seals. A cheap seal puller from harbor freight does make removal easier. I like and use Elwis, Timken and Ishino seals. Never had a problem with any of them. The seals for your motor should not have a flange.

Proper cam seals: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005X8KDOC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Plus one on OEM seals and to tackle all of them while you are in there. Prior to removing the seals, take a few pics so you can get a decent idea of how far in to press/pound the new seals. I didn't require any 'special tool' for the seals but you may need to order a tool to hold your harmonic balancer in place when you remove the crank bolt. Lots of info on this through the forum and I got mine through ebay. There are a couple of different configurations when it comes to the harmonic balancer so take some measurements of it's holes to ensure the tool's pins will align prior to purchasing the tool from ebay. As far as holding the cams, I ran into that issue as well. My passenger side would forcefully slip to one side or the other under spring tension after I removed the belt. I didn't use anything to hold it but probably should have and instead just found the 'sweet spot' where it wouldn't rotate and worked carefully around that. I didn't hear any metal on metal noise when it would slip over and the motor runs great so no harm, no foul. I think. Get a factory service manual and jump in.

Good idea on the service.

Yes, replace all the seals, Cams & crank. If they start to leak tomorrow or next week - it is like doing another timing belt job for labor.

People seem to favor OEM seals, it is what I have used as well. Not sure about aftermarket. Cost between the options is marginal compared to the labor involved.

Have you looked at the FSM (factory service manual)? http://www.mitsubishilinks.com

Replace the harmonic balancer bolt and washer too.

Thanks for all of the input! I know the OEM parts aren't that much more, but I'm also doing all of the ball joints, tie rod ends and rebuilding the front cv axles as the boots are cracked, so things are starting to add up... I had already ordered the Timken seals by the time I saw the responses (https://www.amazon.com/Timken-22301...&qid=1516776716&sr=1-1&keywords=timken+223010), I figure they should be as good as any. Basically everything else I have purchased is OEM. In case you all weren't already aware, the ENGINETECH brand timing idler pulley and tensioner pulley on rock auto (which happen to be the cheapest on there) are the exact same KOYO pulleys as OEM, so you can get both for about $23 + S&H vs $90+ anywhere else.

I ordered a tool off of ebay for $35 to get the harmonic balancer off and it worked just fine. I haven't had much time lately to work on it, but I started tearing down the intake manifold tonight to get the valve covers off and noticed that there seems to be an oil leak coming from the passenger side VC gasket too, so thanks for the pointer Earlron.

After removing the throttle body I noticed the inside of of the intake manifold is sludge colored, possibly from a dirty air filter and oil leaks going unattended too long with the previous owner? The majority of the engine bay looks like it hasn't seen a good cleaning since it rolled off the showroom floor and the oil+dirt combo has just made the situation worse, add in a little heat over 5 years and maybe some of that leaking oil has managed to burn up and get sucked into/condensate on the inside of the manifold? At this point I'm just hoping there aren't any more surprises waiting on me....

 

[DanielDD]

When you get ready to do the timing belt, contact me and I'll let you borrow the special tool (similar to MD998767) or adjusting the tension on the belt prior to tightening the bolt for the eccentric on the tensioner pulley. You will need to use 2 torque wrenches, though. I had to locate an inch pound torque wrench to properly set the tension.

 

[PT52590]

When you get ready to do the timing belt, contact me and I'll let you borrow the special tool (similar to MD998767) or adjusting the tension on the belt prior to tightening the bolt for the eccentric on the tensioner pulley. You will need to use 2 torque wrenches, though. I had to locate an inch pound torque wrench to properly set the tension.

Thanks Daniel but I found that tool on Amazon for $10, which is probably less than it would cost to ship it to Idaho and back so I just ordered it.

I have removed the upper plenum so that I can get the valve covers off to replace the cam seals and was wondering if anyone had any experience with the plenum butterfly valve issue? I'm just wondering if there is a way to identify if mine might have the issue, or is it all of the 95 SR models? Also, does anyone have any ideas to help me tell if it might have already been replaced by a previous owner?